Characteristics of the boundary layer at the bottom of a solitary wave

The results of direct numerical simulations of the boundary layer generated at the bottom of a solitary wave are described. The numerical results, which agree with the laboratory measurements of Sumer et al. (2010) show that the flow regime in the boundary layer can be laminar, laminar with coherent vortices and turbulent. The average velocity and bottom shear stress are computed and the results obtained show that the logarithmic law can approximate the velocity profile only in a restricted range of the parameters and at particular phases of the wave cycle. Moreover, the maximum value of the bottom shear stress is found to depend on the dimensionless wave height only, while the minimum (negative) value depends also on the dimensionless boundary layer thickness. Diagrams and simple formulae are proposed to evaluate the minimum and maximum bottom shear stresses and their phase shift with respect to the wave crest.     

Appraisal of storm beach buffer width for cyclonic waves

The loss of beach sand from berm and dune due to high waves and surge is a universal phenomenon associated with sporadic storm activities. To protect the development in a coastal hazard zone, hard structures or coastal setback have been established in many countries around the world. In this paper, the requirement of a storm beach buffer, being a lesser extent landward comparing with the coastal setback to ensure the safety of infrastructures, is numerically assessed using the SBEACH model for three categories of wave conditions in terms of storm return period, median sand grain size, berm width, and design water level. Two of the key outputs from the numerical calculations, berm retreat and bar formation offshore, are then analysed, as well as beach profile change. After having performed a series of numerical studies on selected large wave tank (LWT) test results with monochromatic waves using SBEACH, we may conclude that: (1) Berm erosion increases and submerged bar develops further offshore as the storm return period increases for beach with a specific sand grain size, or as the sand grain reduces on a beach under the action of identical wave condition; (2) Higher storm waves yield a large bar to form quicker and subsequently cause wave breaking on the bar crest, which can reduce the wave energy and limit the extent of the eroding berm; (3) A larger buffer width is required for a beach comprising small sand grain, in order to effectively absorb storm wave energy; and (4) Empirical relationships can be tentatively proposed to estimate the storm beach buffer width, from the input of wave conditions and sediment grain size. These results would benefit a beach nourishment project for shore protection or design of a recreational beach.     

平板对下游方柱流体动力性能影响分析

基于有限体积法求解二维粘性不可压缩Navier-Stokes方程,分别采用层流模型和Realizable k-ε模型研究Re=250和Re=104前置平板与下游方柱间的流动干扰现象,分析不同尺度的平板布置在不同位置时对下游方柱的绕流场及流体动力性能的影响。计算发现在方柱上游布置平板可以有效的控制方柱的绕流场,减小方柱的阻力系数和升力系数;随着平板尺度的增加,方柱的阻力系数、升力系数呈下降趋势;并且存在较好的平板布置区间,可以最大程度的降低方柱和平板的阻力系数及方柱的升力系数,从而达到良好的减振、降噪的效果。     

地理经纬双向过渡带和复杂地形下气候的过渡性和特异性 ——以宜昌市为例

宜昌处在我国地形第二、第三级阶梯的过渡地带,又位于我国南北过渡带秦巴山地南麓的中低纬度过渡带,长江中上游结合部,山地河谷平原并存,地形复杂,垂直高差大。气候资料分析和文献调研表明,宜昌天气气候因特殊地理环境具有过渡性和特异性：（1）年平均气温主要随地形高度递减,年总降水量主要随纬度升高减小。（2）年暴雨日数、连阴雨天数,在中西部随纬度升高而递减,等值线近似纬向排列;东部随地形升高而递增,等值线近似经向排列。（3）山地平原过渡带地形的阻挡滞留、辐合抬升等对极端短时强降水有明显加强作用,这种作用在秦岭与黄淮过渡带、太行山与华北平原过渡带有相似的天气气候效应。（4）宜昌位于江淮梅雨的西界、华西秋雨的东界,具有天气气候“分水岭”特征。（5）宜昌是暴雨雨团、西南涡移动的主要通道之一。     

COMPARISON OF ON-LINE COUPLED AND CONSTANT TRANSFER SIMULATION METHODS FOR DIRECT RADIATIVE FORCING OF ANTHROPOGENIC SULFATE

1 INTRODUCTIONOf three main methods for studying the radiativeforcing of anthropogenic sulfate and climatic responseon the regional scale, the first is, with given rates fortransforming SO2 to sulfate, converting actuallyreleased SO2 into sulfate and acqu…     

Response of the Tarzana strong motion site during the 1994 Northridge earthquake

Exceptionally high ground motions (horizontal peak ground acceleration (PGA) of 1.82g) were recorded at the Tarzana Station during the main shock of the 1994 Northridge earthquake (moment magnitude 6.7 at an epicentral distance of 6 km). At the time of the main shock, the instrument was located near the edge of a 21 m-high ridge with side slopes ranging from 3H:1V to 15H:1V. The ridge is underlain by shallow fill and soft rocks of Medelo Formation.

The objectives of this study were to (1) identify the relative contributions of various factors such as local geology, topography, source mechanism, and travel path on the large ground motions recorded at Tarzana Station and (2) develop an analytical model that could adequately predict observed ground motions at the Tarzana site during the Northridge earthquake and at similar sites during future earthquakes. This study is an integral part of a series of inter-related studies referred to as the ROSRINE research (Resolution of Site Response Issues during Northridge Earthquake) project.

The PGA at the surface of competent bedrock (1 km/s shear wave velocity found about 100 m below ground surface) is estimated by Silva [ROSRINE Study (2000)] at 0.46 gravity (g). To identify the source of ground motion amplification, one-dimensional ( ), two-dimensional (TELDYN and SASSI), and three-dimensional (SASSI) analyses were conducted using both recorded aftershock data and an estimated ground acceleration time histories at a 100 m depth.

The results of the analyses indicate that (1) local geology and topography could only partially account for the observed ground motion amplification, and (2) the PGA and response spectra at a point near the edge of the ridge (the location of the instrument at the time of the main shock) is in good agreement with recorded values when the angle of incident of shear waves (SV waves) at 100 m depth is assumed at 30° from vertical. Considering the local geology and variation of shear wave velocity with depth, the 30° incident angle at 100 m depth corresponds to an 8° incident angle of shear waves at the ground surface. This observation is, in general, consistent with the incident angles of shear waves reported from study of the recorded aftershock data.     

Reversal of monthly East Asian winter air temperature in 2020/21 and its predictability

在全球变暖的背景下,近年来东亚冬季气温存在复杂的季节内变化.本文研究了2020/21年东亚冬季气温的月际转折及可预测性.结果 表明,2020/21年东亚冬季气温前冬(2020年12月-2021年1月中旬)偏冷,后冬(2021年1月中旬-2月)偏暖.西伯利亚高压强度在前冬和后冬也出现转折变化.在前冬,由于2020年9月巴...     

风沙物理学中两个焦点问题研究现状与未来研究思路刍议

风沙物理学经过数十年的发展与完善,可以说基本上自成体系。但由于学科的起步较晚,加之现象的复杂性,目前仍有很多重要的理论问题没能彻底解决,至少还未达成共识,成为学术界长期以来争论的焦点,从而影响了学科的继续发展。对“沙粒起动机制”和“风成沙纹的形成机理”两个焦点问题在进行研究现状剖析的基础上,浅析未来研究思路。提出沙粒起动主要驱动力是驻点升力的观点,以空气动力学理论为基础的沙粒起动机制研究将是未来该领域的发展趋势;关于沙纹的形成,认为沙粒粒径的不均匀性以及所导致的非平衡运动是前提和基础,风沙流运动过程中类似左右沙丘运动的蚀积转换规律是使沙纹能够维持其稳定形态的必要条件,而沙纹有规律、整齐划一的分布与排列可能与背风面气流小尺度的涡流有关。     

Assessment of chemical dispersant effectiveness in a wave tank under regular non-breaking and breaking wave conditions

Current chemical dispersant effectiveness tests for product selection are commonly performed with bench-scale testing apparatus. However, for the assessment of oil dispersant effectiveness under real sea state conditions, test protocols are required to have hydrodynamic conditions closer to the natural environment, including transport and dilution effects. To achieve this goal, Fisheries and Oceans Canada and the US Environmental Protection Agency (EPA) designed and constructed a wave tank system to study chemical dispersant effectiveness under controlled mixing energy conditions (regular non-breaking, spilling breaking, and plunging breaking waves). Quantification of oil dispersant effectiveness was based on observed changes in dispersed oil concentrations and oil-droplet size distribution. The study results quantitatively demonstrated that total dispersed oil concentration and breakup kinetics of oil droplets in the water column were strongly dependent on the presence of chemical dispersants and the influence of breaking waves. These data on the effectiveness of dispersants as a function of sea state will have significant implications in the drafting of future operational guidelines for dispersant use at sea.