具有内波特性的渤海南部次重力波

次重力波(infragravity waves)是频率范围介于局地平均Brunt-V¾is¾l¾频率和0.05Hz(涌浪频率)之间的一种海洋波动,其能量在深水大洋中一般甚低,但在浅海中却很强.该波动的研究对于浅海海洋内部混合、近岸海洋工程、海洋生态学、海洋沉积学及军事海洋学均有重要的意义.Munk[1]很早就开始研究这类波动,然而主要由于观测技术的限制,对于该类波动的动力学机制的研究进展迟缓.     

A Possible Mechanism of Ocean Finestructure Part Ⅰ: Energy and Coherence

依据在作者的前文（１９９８）中对于考虑旋转向量水平分量（ｆ～）的大洋内波方程求出的渐近解,文中对Ｓ场（考虑ｆ～条件下的总的内波场）,ＳＩ场（不计ｆ～影响的内波场）和ＳＦ场（Ｓ场中与ｆ～相关联的部分）导出了能量谱和相干谱。此理论谱与Ｍｕｌｅｒ等（１９７８）的ＩＷＥＸ实验的观测结果相比较表明,ＳＦ场的水平动能谱和铅直位移谱基本上与水平流细结构和铅直位移细结构的观测谱一致。作者推测ＳＦ场对应于中纬度大洋可逆细结构。但是对于相干谱的观测结果,在不考虑内波非线性相互作用和破碎过程的条件下,仅考虑ＳＦ场的影响还不能给予满意的解释。     

Numerical modeling of nonlinear water waves over heterogeneous porous beds

The transformation of nonlinear water waves over porous beds is studied by applying a numerical model based on Chen's [2006. Fully nonlinear Boussinesq-type equations for waves and currents over porous beds. Journal of Engineering Mechanics, 132:2, 220–230] Boussinesq-type equations for highly nonlinear waves on permeable beds. The numerical model uses a high-order time-marching solution and fourth-order finite-difference schemes for discretization of first-order spatial derivatives to obtain a computational accuracy consistent with the model equations. By forcing the wave celerity and spatial porous-damping rate of the linearized model to match the exact linear theory for horizontal porous bed over a prescribed range of relative depths, the values of the model parameters are optimally determined. Numerical simulations of the damped wave propagation over finite-thickness porous layer demonstrate the accuracy of both the numerical model and governing equations, which have been shown by prior theoretical analyses to be accurate for both nominal and thick porous layers. These simulations also elucidate on the significance of the higher-order porous-damping terms and the influence of the hydraulic parameters. Application of the model to the simulation of the wave field around a laboratory-scale submerged porous mound provides a measure of its capability, as well as useful insight into the scaling of the porous-resistance coefficients. For application to heterogeneous porous beds, the assumption of weak spatial variation of the porous resistance is examined using truncated forms of the governing equations. The results indicate that the complete set of Boussinesq-type equations is applicable to porous beds of nonhomogeneous makeup.     

粤东后江湾冲流带滩面高频振动及动力作用分析

利用涌浪影响下短时段内的冲流带滩面高频高程数据和碎波带波流资料,在奇异谱分析(SSA)的基础上,以比研究了不同形态滩面的冲淤变化趋势、趋势分布形状、冲淤变化周期和冲淤变化强度,以及同一条剖面不同桩点间各因素间的变化关系;用交叉谱方法探索了每分钟滩面高频冲淤变化与碎波带长重力波间的作用关系.分析结果表明,滩角韵律地形引起的冲流分流作用促进了滩脊向滩谷的泥沙转运,冲流带滩面存在明显的长重力波频段的周期性冲淤振动,滩面冲淤振动强度由滩面下部向上部递减,碎波带长重力波对滩面高频冲淤变化起重要作用.     

1003号台风“灿都”风暴潮特征分析与模拟

根据粤西沿海4个海洋站潮位资料分析、讨论了“灿都”台风风暴潮特征:利用改进的Jelesnianski风场,并采用耦合天文潮模拟与非耦合天文潮两种方案,对1003号台风“灿都”进行模拟、分析,模拟结果显示:在改进的杰氏风场驱动下,两种预报结果误差都比较小,但耦合天文潮预报结果优于非耦合天文潮预报结果.     

Numerical simulation of nearshore circulation on field topography under random wave environment

In order to investigate surf zone hydrodynamics through two-dimensional numerical simulations of nearshore circulation under random wave environment, a nearshore circulation model, SHORECIRC, and a random wave model, SWAN, were combined and utilized. Using this combined model, a numerical simulation of the October 2, 1997 SandyDuck field experiment was performed. For this simulation, field topography and an input offshore spectrum were constructed using observed data sets synchronized with the experiment. The wave-breaking model in SWAN was modified by using breaker parameters varied according to bottom slope. The simulation results were compared with the experimental data, which revealed a well-developed longshore current, as well as with results using other combinations which were SHORECIRC and its original monochromatic wave-driver, and SHORECIRC and the default of SWAN. The results from the novel combined model agreed well with the experimental data. The results of the present simulation also indicate that alongshore field topography influences shear fluctuation of longshore currents.     

台风“麦莎”对大连地区造成暴雨的分析

选取登路北上,在大连地区造成强降水的热带气旋0509"麦莎",对其影响大连地区期间的环境流场、路径特征及物理量场进行诊断分析。结果表明,稳定的副热带高压及非纬向高空急流与低空急流的耦合,使来自东南洋面的丰沛水汽不断输送到大连地区,且有利于"麦莎"的北上。"麦莎"在北上过程中,没有从中纬度西风槽获得斜压能量,并没有变性加强。同时,借助于卫星云图、多普勒雷达资料,分析"麦莎"暴雨的中小尺度系统,结果表明导致大连地区强降水的主要系统是两个中-β尺度系统,暴雨落区在"麦莎"的东北侧。     

1013号台风“鲇鱼”风暴潮特点分析

1013号超强台风“鲇鱼”在福建漳浦县登陆.登陆时逢农历九月十六的天文高潮,给闽南沿海地区造成了较大的灾害.本文从台风路径特点及灾害、天气形势、与历史相似台风(9914号)对比、数值模拟等方面对此次台风引起的风暴潮过程进行分析得出:进行历史台风相似分析时,除了台风本身路径、强度、移速等参数之外,还要注意分析台风的季节时间,天气形势,登陆地点,这些都会造成台风增水的明显不同;台风登陆后,受地形和降水影响,有时增水也会持续增大几小时.     

乳山湾邻近海域波浪特征要素规律研究

基于高分辨率MASNUM第三代海浪模式并根据Yuan等(2009)提出的波浪破碎统计物理模型,对乳山湾外海2008年各个季节波浪特征要素(有效波高和跨零周期等)与波浪破碎参数(白冠覆盖率、卷入深度和破碎能量损耗率)进行了数值模拟。利用Janson-1卫星高度计观测资料对有效波高模拟结果进行了检验,平均误差在0.17m左右。模拟结果显示,该海域波浪参数具有明显的季节变化特征,在2008-08乳山湾邻近海域受大风天气过程影响期间,有效波高在1.0~1.8m,破碎参数变化显著,白冠覆盖率最大达4.5%,卷入深度在1.5m以上,相应的破碎能量损耗率量值在6~11kg/s3。结果表明,波浪破碎过程对该区域海洋动力环境有着重要影响,是造成乳山湾口表层高溶解氧的可能机制之一。     

2008年中国沿岸冬季寒潮激发陆架波的小波分析

This study applies the wavelet analysis to the tidal gauge records, alongshore winds, atmospheric temperature and pressure along the China coast in winter 2008. The analysis results show three events of sea level oscillations(SLOs) on the shelf induced by winter storms. The first event occurred from January 9 to 21. The SLO periods were double-peaked at 1.6–5.3 and 7.0–16.0 d with the power densities of 0.04–0.05 and 0.10–0.15 m2·d, respectively.The second event occurred from February 5 to 18. The SLO period was single-peaked at 2.3–3.5 d with power density of 0.03–0.04 m2·d. The third event occurred from February 20 to March 8. The SLO periods were doublepeaked at 1.5–4.3 and 6.1–8.2 d with the power densities of 0.08–0.11 and 0.02–0.08 m2·d, respectively. The SLOs propagated along the coast from Zhejiang in north to Guangdong in south. The phase speeds ranged about 9–29m/s from Kanmen to Pingtan, 5–11 m/s from Xiamen to Huizhou and 11–22 m/s from Huizhou to Shuidong. The dispersion relation of the SLOs shows their nature of coastal-trapped wave.