Spectral Analysis of Nonlinear Drag Forces

The spectral properties of nonlinear drag forces of random waves on vertical circular cylinders are analyzed in this paper by means of nonlinear spectral analysis. The analysis provides basic parameters for estimation of the characteristic drag forces. Numerical computation is also performed for the investigation of the effects of nonlinearity of the drag forces.The results indicate that the wave drag forces calculated by linear wave theory are larger than those calculated by the third order Stokes wave theory for given waves. The difference between them increases with wave height. The wave drag forces calculated by use of hnear approximation are about 5% smaller than their actual values when measured in the peak values of spectral densities. This will result in a safety problem for the design of offshore structures. Therefore, the nonlinear effect of wave drag forces should be taken into comidemtion in design and application of important offshore structures.     

Dynamic analysis of a vertical plate exposed to breaking wave impact

From the experimental studies in recent years, it has become known that when a wave breaks directly on a vertical faced coastal structure, high magnitude impact pressures are produced. The theoretical and experimental studies show that the dynamic response of such structures under wave impact loading is closely dependent on the magnitude and duration of the load history. The dynamic analysis and design of a coastal structure can be succeeded provided the design load history for the wave impact is available. Since these types of data are very scarce, it is much more convenient to follow a method which is based on static analysis for the dynamic design procedure. Therefore, to facilitate the dynamic design of a vertical plate that is exposed to breaking wave impact, a multiplication factor called “dynamic magnification factor” is herein presented which is defined as the ratio of the maximum value of the dynamic response to that found by static analysis. The computational results of the present study show that the dynamic magnification factor is a useful ratio to transfer the results of static analysis to the dynamic design of a coastal plate for the maximum impact pressure conditions of p_max/γH₀≤18.     

Budgets of Mn,Cd and Cu in the macrotidal Gironde estuary (SW France)

The behavior and budget of Mn, Cd and Cu in the Gironde estuary were investigated through data from both the water column (WC) and sediment depth profiles. In the estuarine freshwater reaches, Mn and Cd removal from and Cu addition to the dissolved phase occurs with a magnitude equivalent to 10%, 30% and 25% of their respective annual fluvial gross dissolved input, respectively. In the saline estuary, diffusive benthic outflow is the main source of dissolved Mn (74% of the total gross dissolved input within the estuary) to the WC. In contrast, Cd (96%) and Cu (89%) are mainly released into the dissolved phase of the WC from fluvial, estuarine and dredging-related particles through complexation (Cd) and organic carbon mineralization (Cu). Anthropogenic activities (sediment dredging) induce pore water inputs, particulate sulfide oxidation and sediment resuspension, significantly contributing to the metal budget of the WC. The related amounts of metals released could be equivalent to 20–50% (Cd) and up to 70% (Cu) of their respective net dissolved addition. Mass balances suggest that a large part of the metals previously released into the dissolved phase from processes within the estuary are removed by suspended particles due to (co-)precipitation of Fe/Mn (oxy)hydroxides and scavenging on autochthonous organic matter. On an annual basis, the Gironde estuary acts as a net sink of dissolved Mn, removing 60% of the dissolved fluvial inputs, and as a net source of dissolved Cd and Cu, contributing ∼ 85% and 20–45% to the dissolved Cd and Cu fluxes to the ocean.     

海洋平台沉垫的波浪载荷试验研究

本文通过对海洋平台沉垫的波浪载荷试验研究分析，着重研究了在规则波中平台沉垫总体波浪载荷和局部水动压力分布的情况，定性地考察了非线性影响、浅水影响的重要性，为今后波浪理论中粘性的引入，进而考虑粘性与波浪运动的非线性相互干扰提供实测依据     

Influence of Wind on Dynamics and Flushing of Shallow Estuaries

Observations of two small estuaries in Cape Cod, U.S.A. indicate large variations in salinity structure that are forced by variations in along-estuary wind stress. During onshore winds, the estuarine circulation is reduced, and the along-estuary salinity gradient increases as freshwater accumulates. During offshore winds, the surface outflow is enhanced, freshwater is flushed out of the estuary, and the along-estuary salinity gradient becomes weak. Constrictions block the wind-induced flushing, resulting in strong salinity fronts across the constrictions. The residence time of one of the estuaries varies by more than a factor of three in response to variations in wind-induced flushing. The other estuary has little variation of flushing associated with winds, due to a constriction at the mouth that inhibits the wind-induced exchange. The strong influence of winds on the flushing of these estuaries is due in part to their shallow depths, which accentuates the influence of wind stress relative to the effects of the horizontal density gradient. In addition, the residence times of the estuaries are comparable to the time scale of wind forcing, allowing large changes in water properties during wind events.     

Prediction of impact pressure induced by breaking waves on vertical cylinders in random seas

This paper presents a method to statistically predict the magnitude of impact pressure (including extreme values) produced by deep water waves breaking on a circular cylinder representing a column of an ocean structure. Breaking waves defined here are not those whose tops are blown off by the wind but those whose breaking is associated with steepness. The probability density function of wave period associated with breaking waves is derived for a specified wave spectrum, and then converted to the probability density function of impact pressure. Impacts caused by two different breaking conditions are considered; one is the impact associated with waves breaking in close proximity to the column, the other is an impact caused by waves approaching the column after they have broken. As an example of the application of the present method, numerical computations are carried out for a wave spectrum obtained from measured data in the North Atlantic.     

Test Study on Current Force on Mooring Ships

In respect of an offshore berthing pillar, the test study result of current force acting on mooring ships is described in this paper. Empirical and semi-empirical relationships of current force coefficient are given according to the angle between the flow direction and the ship's longitudinal axis, which are coincident with the result of theoretical analysis.     

The Nonlinear Wave Force on a Circular Cylinder in Shallow Water

Based on the 1st order cnoidal wave theory, the nonlinear wave diffraction around a circular cylinder in shallow water is studied in this paper. The equation of the wave surface around the cylinder is formulated and by using this formula the wave surface elevation on the cylinder surface can be obtained. In this paper, the formula for calculating the cnoidal wave force on a circular cylinder is also derived. For the wave conditions which are often encountered in practical engineering designs, the ratios of the nonlinear wave forces to the linear wave forces are calculated, and the results are plotted in this paper for design purposes. In order to verify the theoretical results, model tests are conducted. After comparing the test results with the theoretical ones, it is concluded that, in shallow water, for the case of T g / d~(1/2) > 8-10 and H / d > 0.3, the cnoidal wave theory should be used to calculate the wave action on a cylindrical pier.     

作用于平台桩腿的海冰屈曲破坏冰压力随机过程模型及其参数确定

冰对结构的作用过程是典型的随机过程。本文在冰压力过程为平稳过程的假设下，从渤海海冰对平台桩腿作用的大量实测冰压力数据中，选取了２１条冰屈曲破坏时的冰压力时程曲线，对它们进行谱分析后，得到了单点冰屈曲破坏的压力随机过程的谱密度，并确定了谱参数及其跟环境要素的关系，依据文献［１］中冰压力沿圆柱面的空间分布，建立了绕桩腿的冰压力随机场模型，并得到了作用于桩腿的总冰力随机过程及其谱密度。本文的研究成果为平台结构冰激随机振动和疲劳累积损伤分析提供了荷载基础     

Numerical and simplified methods for the calculation of the total horizontal wave force on a perforated caisson with a top cover

The VOF method and the k–ε model, combined with the equation of state of air at constant temperature, have been used to calculate the total horizontal wave force caused by monochromatic waves acting on a perforated caisson with a top cover. From comparison of various parameters, such as the total horizontal force, the pressure difference on the front wall, the pressure on the back wall and the pressure on the top cover, between the numerical results and test data, it can be seen that the numerical results agree well with the test data. It is concluded that the method described in this paper can be utilized to calculate wave forces acting on perforated caissons with a top cover in the case of nonovertopping, nonbreaking waves. A simplified method to calculate the total horizontal force has been developed, based on test data, using a least-squares method. A comparison between the numerical results and the values calculated from the simplified equations shows good agreement. Therefore the simplified equations can be used in engineering applications to evaluate the total horizontal force on a perforated caisson with a top cover.