考虑底摩擦的波浪折射计算

本文用考虑底摩擦的折射模式计算了浅水中波高和波向分布。作为一个例子,根据不同的摩擦系数和不同的边界条件计算了一种简单海底地形的折射系数、衰减系数和折射角,所得结果与不考虑底摩擦的折射模式结果进行比较,发展它们之间存在一些差异,表明在浅水中底摩擦对波高有一定影响。     

三传感器波浪水槽二次反射主动吸收方法

三传感器波浪水槽二次反射主动吸收方法是加拿大科学院水力中心最近开发的一种水槽反射波控制技术。该法在造波板前 1～ 2倍波长处布置 3个传感器 ,通过入反射波分离方法得到准确的入反射波参数 ,以此调整造波信号 ,有效地吸收由建筑物反射回到造波板的二次反射波。文中在分析波浪水槽二次反射吸收方法研究现状的基础上 ,介绍了加拿大水力中心对现有方法的改进及其效果     

渤、黄、东海底摩擦系数的研究

本文将伴随法用于渤、黄、东海M2分潮的数值模拟,利用Topex／Poseidon高度计资料进行同化,优化海底摩擦系数。文中对底摩擦系数取常数时进行了优化,同时还对底摩擦系数的一种新的处理方法进行了研究,即在计算海区选取一些点给定底摩擦系数,海区中任意一点的底摩擦系数由这些点的底摩擦系数线性播值得到,优化后得到空间分布的底摩擦系数。针对两种不同的线性底摩擦假设分别进行了一系列的实际实验,结果表明由空间分布的底摩擦系数得到的模拟值比底摩擦系数取常数得到的模拟值更接近观测值,能有效地提高数值模拟的精度。     

Depth- and current-induced effects on wave propagation into the Altamaha River Estuary, Georgia

A study of sea surface wave propagation and its energy deformation was carried out using field observations and numerical experiments over a region spanning the midshelf of the South Atlantic Bight (SAB) to the Altamaha River Estuary, GA. Wave heights on the shelf region correlate with the wind observations and directional observations show that most of the wave energy is incident from the easterly direction. Comparing midshelf and inner shelf wave heights during a time when there was no wind and hence no wave development led to an estimation of wave energy dissipation due to bottom friction with corresponding wave dissipation factor of 0.07 for the gently sloping continental shelf of the SAB. After interacting with the shoaling region of the Altamaha River, the wave energy within the estuary becomes periodic in time showing wave energy during flood to high water phase of the tide and very little wave energy during ebb to low water. This periodic modulation inside the estuary is a direct result of enhanced depth and current-induced wave breaking that occurs at the ebb shoaling region surrounding the Altamaha River mouth at longitude 81.23°W. Modelling results with STWAVE showed that depth-induced wave breaking is more important during the low water phase of the tide than current-induced wave breaking during the ebb phase of the tide. During the flood to high water phase of the tide, wave energy propagates into the estuary. Measurements of the significant wave height within the estuary showed a maximum wave height difference of 0.4 m between the slack high water (SHW) and slack low water (SLW). In this shallow environment these wave–current interactions lead to an apparent bottom roughness that is increased from typical hydraulic roughness values, leading to an enhanced bottom friction coefficient.     

Sediment Transport in Rivers and Coastal Waters

Following Bagnold's approach, a relationship between sediment transport and energy dissipation is developed. The major assumption made in the study is that the near bed velocity plays a dominant role in the process of sediment transport. A general relationship between energy dissipation and sediment transport is first proposed. Then the equations for total sediment transport are derived by introducing the appropriate expression of energy dissipation rate under different conditions, such as open channel flows, combination of wave and current, as well as longshore sediment transport. Within the flows investigated, the derived relationships are fairly consistent with the available data over a wide range of conditions.     

一种推广的缓坡方程

从流体力学基本方程出发，假定水流的涡量和垂向流速分量小量，推导出考虑非均匀水流的推广的缓坡方程，该方程中包含了△h^2h项和（△hh)^2项。在方程中引入底摩擦项、风能输入项和非线性项，其中风能输入项的推导考虑了风浪与涌浪的区别，风流情况依据青岛海洋大学的风浪成长经验关系，涌浪情况依据Snyder等人的观测结果。经过上述推广后，得到综合考虑折射、绕射、反射、非均匀水流、底摩擦损耗、风能输入及波浪非线性的推广的缓坡方程。     

Parameterization of Wave Breaking Probability and Whitecap Coverage

1 .Introduction Wave breaking and associated whitecapping have long beeninteresting due totheir close relationto many fields of ocean study,including air-sea interaction,remote sensing,ocean engineering,aswell as wave dynamics .The breaking probabilityBan…     

16米风化砂回填地基的深层振密加固

结合北方某重力式深水 ( -1 6.0 m)码头沉箱后壁 1 4.5 m范围的回填风化砂经深层振密处理这一工程实例 ,介绍了回填砂振密的技术要求、施工工艺和方法及振密效果的检测。同时对施工与检测中的某些技术问题提出了自己的看法。     

地形摩擦对台风移动的影响

本文从动力学的角度研究了台风流场与台风运动的关系,在实际预报中考虑地形摩擦改变的流场对台风移动的影响取得了明显的效果。     

Flow fields in reflected waves at a sloped sea wall

Wave run-up, and flow visualization experiments were conducted with a 1:2 sloped sea wall model. The visualization experiments gave an overview of flow fields in reflected, non-breaking conditions. Maximum particle velocities were found to be significantly smaller than suggested in the literature. Downrush produced a fast sheet flow, extending down to the toe of the sea wall. This created a ‘reverse’ breaker during the retreat of the initially non-breaking wave, which explains the high-energy dissipation rates for non-breaking waves reported in the literature. Embankments may therefore be exposed to wave impact pressures in areas up to 1.18H₀ below MWL.