近岸波浪破碎区不规则波浪的数值模拟

基于近岸不规则波浪传播的抛物型缓坡方程和两类波浪破碎能量损耗因子,对近岸波浪破碎区不规则波浪的波高分布进行了数值模拟,并结合实验结果对数值模拟结果进行了验证分析,结果表明采用两类波浪破碎能量损耗因子所模拟的破碎区波高与实测值均吻合良好,波浪破碎能量损耗因子及波浪破碎指标对破碎区波浪波高分布影响较明显。     

港域波浪数学模型的改进与验证

通过物理模型对改进的港内波浪传播变形数学模型进行验证。该数学模型以推广的时变缓坡方程为控制方程,采用含松弛因子的ADI法求解,并对波浪反射和透射边界模拟方法进行改进。先通过物理模型试验确定斜向浪入射条件下抛石防波堤前的波浪反射系数,作为数学模型中部分反射边界模拟的依据。然后进行了一个典型港口内波浪折射、绕射和反射的模型试验,测量港内波浪分布。对比模型试验和数学模型计算的结果表明,数学模型可较好地模拟港内复杂地形和边界条件下规则波和不规则波的传播变形。     

Habitat continuity effects on gradients of fish biomass across marine protected area boundaries

Marine protected areas (MPAs) could be useful as fisheries management tools for the exportation of pelagic eggs, larvae and adult fish. A decreasing gradient of fish biomass across MPAs boundary may indicate export. We determine whether gradients of decreasing biomass of fish assemblage occurred in Tabarca Marine Reserve over two habitats with different continuity across the boundaries, to test if the patchy nature of the marine environment might act as a barrier for the fish export. In general, significant decreasing gradients in total fish biomass and biomass of some species were observed on P. oceanica and rocky substrates, independently of their different continuity through the reserve boundaries. Changes in the multivariate structure of the fish assemblage were correlated with the distance from integral reserve. All of these results support the hypothesis that the exportation of adult fish from Tabarca Marine Reserve occurs, and this process may influence the surrounding fished areas.     

Generation of random waves in time-dependent extended mild-slope equations using a source function method

We develop techniques of numerical wave generation in the time-dependent extended mild-slope equations of Suh et al. [1997. Time-dependent equations for wave propagation on rapidly varying topography. Coastal Engineering 32, 91–117] and Lee et al. [2003. Extended mild-slope equation for random waves. Coastal Engineering 48, 277–287] for random waves using a source function method. Numerical results for both regular and irregular waves in one and two horizontal dimensions show that the wave heights and the frequency spectra are properly reproduced. The waves that pass through the wave generation region do not cause any numerical disturbances, showing usefulness of the source function method in avoiding re-reflection problems at the offshore boundary.     

In situ and satellite observations of the eastward migration of the Western Alboran Sea Gyre

During October 2003 an intensive oceanographic survey (BIOMEGA) was carried out in the Alboran Sea, coinciding with a migration event of the Western Alboran Sea Gyre (WAG). The observations gathered during that cruise constitute the first field evidence of a migrated stage of the WAG. In this work we present the main differences between the 3D hydrodynamic fields observed during BIOMEGA and those corresponding to a WAG located at its usual position. The migration of the gyre was followed by satellite (altimetry and sea surface temperature) imagery. The causes of the gyre migration are explored in terms of the quasi-geostrophic tendency equation, in particular of the dynamics governing scales larger than the Rossby radius of deformation. It is shown that the steady state gyre must be almost equivalent barotropic and that the key process to break down the stationarity would be a density advection at gyre scale. The mechanisms to explain the migration of the WAG proposed by previous authors are discussed in light of the explanation proposed in this work.     

A linear Boltzmann equation to model wave scattering in the marginal ice zone

We present a linear Boltzmann equation to model wave scattering in the Marginal Ice Zone (the region of ocean which consists of broken ice floes). The equation is derived by two methods, the first based on Meylan et al. [Meylan, M.H., Squire, V.A., Fox, C., 1997. Towards realism in modeling ocean wave behavior in marginal ice zones. J. Geophys. Res. 102 (C10), 22981–22991] and second based on Masson and LeBlond [Masson, D., LeBlond, P., 1989. Spectral evolution of wind-generated surface gravity waves in a dispersed ice field. J. Fluid Mech. 202, 111–136]. This linear Boltzmann equation, we believe, is more suitable than the equation presented in Masson and LeBlond [Masson, D., LeBlond, P., 1989. Spectral evolution of wind-generated surface gravity waves in a dispersed ice field. J. Fluid Mech. 202, 111–136] because of its simpler form, because it is a differential rather than difference equation and because it does not depend on any assumptions about the ice floe geometry. However, the linear Boltzmann equation presented here is equivalent to the equation in Masson and LeBlond [Masson, D., LeBlond, P., 1989. Spectral evolution of wind-generated surface gravity waves in a dispersed ice field. J. Fluid Mech. 202, 111–136] since it is derived from their equation. Furthermore, the linear Boltzmann equation is also derived independently using the argument in Meylan et al. [Meylan, M.H., Squire, V.A., Fox, C., 1997. Towards realism in modeling ocean wave behavior in marginal ice zones. J. Geophys. Res. 102 (C10), 22981–22991]. We also present details of how the scattering kernel in the linear Boltzmann equation is found from the scattering by an individual ice floe and show how the linear Boltzmann equation can be solved straightforwardly in certain cases.     

A modified method to estimate chain inverse catenary profile in clay based on chain equation and chain yield envelope

Offshore floating facilities are fixed by anchoring systems embedded in seabed soils through chains or ropes. The chain inverse catenary profile embedded in soils influences both the anchor failure mechanism and the anchor holding capacity. The chain mobilizes varying soil normal and tangential resistances during motion, hence it is with difficulty to depict the chain profile. The present work proposed a modified method to estimate the chain inverse catenary profile with high accuracy based on the chain equations and the chain yield envelope. A testing arrangement with three load cells and two MEMS (Micro-electromechanical systems) accelerometers included was designed in model tests. By model tests, the loading combinations of the soil tangential and normal resistances on the chain were obtained and the yield envelopes for both chain and rope were determined. In addition, supplemental model tests were performed to validate the modified method proposed in this study, and the testing results indicated that the estimated chain inverse catenary profile was in good agreement with the actual one. Moreover, the testing arrangement is beneficial in investigating the chain-soil-anchor interaction.     

An energy-controlling boundary condition for partial wave reflections in the mild slope equation

An energy-controlling technique to actively manage the reflective property of waves from solid boundary is presented. As linear waves propagate through an energy-controlling area, a reduction in wave heights occurs due to energy dissipation, which can be placed under direct control through the imaginary part of the wavenumber and phase velocity. Based on this relationship, the present study investigates a new method to control reflected waves with desired heights in the mild slope equation model. The method is validated through numerical tests for various reflection coefficients and the results confirm the promising use of energy-controlling boundary condition for partial wave reflections.     

碳酸盐岩孔隙度预测新方法在珠江口盆地的应用

孔隙度是油气勘探中储层预测、储层描述、储量估算和油气藏综合研究的一个重要评价参数,它的准确求取是一项非常重要的关键性技术。碳酸盐岩非均质性强,横向变化大,其孔隙度预测一直是个难题。常规方法对孔隙度进行计算存在精度不高、物理意义不明确等问题,常常不能满足油气勘探开发需求。因此,通过对Gassmann方程合理简化并引入Eshelby—Walsh干燥岩石椭球包体近似公式,推导出包含岩石孔隙结构参数、饱和岩石压缩系数与岩石基质压缩系数3个参数的计算孔隙度新公式,然后通过测井交汇图技术和叠前弹性参数反演技术,将其转化为与碳酸盐岩孔隙结构和纵横波速度、密度有关的具体计算公式。同时考虑到不同相带对碳酸盐岩储层孔隙结构的影响,故分相带对新方法进行了应用。结果表明,基于碳酸盐岩孔隙结构的孔隙度预测方法的精度高于常规方法。     

两层分层流体中初始内孤立波分裂的数值研究

本文导得了1个研究内波分裂的射线型二维KdV方程。利用这一方程的一维退化方程进行了实验室尺度下孤立子型内波分裂的数值研究。数值结果表明,深水区的初始内孤立波和实测的内孤立波(内潮)在通过陆坡区时都会产生分裂,并在陆架上(浅水区)生成一内孤立子波列。这表明在实际海洋条件下,深海区内潮的分裂是陆架上海洋内孤立子波包(或波列)生成的主要机制之一。