Longshore drift estimation using fluorescent tracers: New insights from an experiment at Comporta Beach, Portugal

A fluorescent sand-tracer experiment was performed at Comporta Beach (Portugal) with the aim of acquiring longshore sediment transport data on a reflective beach, the optimization of field and laboratory tracer procedures and the improvement of the conceptual model used to support tracer data interpretation.

The field experiment was performed on a mesotidal reflective beach face in low energetic conditions (significant wave height between 0.4 and 0.5 m). Two different colour tracers (orange and blue) were injected at low tide and sampled in the two subsequent low tides using a high resolution 3D grid extending 450 m alongshore and 30 m cross-shore. Marked sand was detected using an automatic digital image processing system developed in the scope of the present experiment.

Results for the two colour tracers show a remarkable coherence, with high recovery rates attesting data validity. Sand tracer displayed a high advection velocity, but with distinct vertical distribution patterns in the two tides: in the first tide there was a clear decrease in tracer advection velocity with depth while in the second tide, the tracer exhibited an almost uniform vertical velocity distribution. This differing behaviour suggests that, in the first tide, the tracer had not reached equilibrium within the transport system, pointing to a considerable time lag between injection and complete mixing. This issue has important implications for the interpretation of tracer data, indicating that short term tracer experiments tend to overestimate transport rates. In this work, therefore, longshore estimates were based on tracer results obtained during the second tide.

The estimated total longshore transport rate at Comporta Beach was 2 × 10^− 3 m³/s, more than four times larger than predicted using standard empirical longshore formulas. This discrepancy, which results from the unusually large active moving layer observed during the experiment, confirms the idea that most common longshore transport equations under-estimate total sediment transport in plunging/surging waves.     

Modified mild slope equation and open boundary conditions

A numerical model to compute wave field is developed. It is based on the Berkhoff diffraction-refraction equation, in which an energy dissipation term is added, to take into account the breaking and the bottom friction phenomena. The energy dissipation function, by breaking and by bottom friction, is introduced in the Berkhoff equation to obtain a new equation of propagation.The resolution is done with the hybrid finite element method, where lagrangians elements are used.     

南极中山站大气气溶胶的化学组成及其来源的判别

从1998年3月7日至1999年11月23日历时21个月，在南极中山站连续采集89个海洋气溶胶样品，本文提供全部样品的13种化学元素Cu、Pb、Zn、Cd、Fe、Al、Mn、Cr、V、K、Na、Ca、Mg含量的实测值．研究表明中山站气溶胶化学成份的含量具有季节性变化的特征．通过相关分析、因子分析、富集因子等方法判别不同时间段中山站气溶胶化学成份的来源。     

Geodynamic Evolution of the Eastern Segment of the Azores-Gibraltar Zone: The Gorringe Bank and the Gulf of Cadiz Region

Detailed structural interpretation of the recently acquired deep seismic multichannel profiles along the Iberian Atlantic Margins (IAM Project) provides new results on the geodynamic evolution of the eastern part of the Azores-Gibraltar plate boundary. Thrusting and folding of the oceanic basement and of Mesozoic and Cenozoic sedimentary cover of the Gorringe Bank region are consistent with the N–S convergence of Iberia and Africa. Compressive structures in the Gorringe Bank region are spread over a wide area. Deformation under compression took place mainly in Tertiary times, as is evidenced by a basal unconformity and several discontinuities in Tertiary sediments, although some deformation has also been recorded in Quaternary sediments. The compressive structures in the Gulf of Cadiz are E–W oriented thrusts, folds and related diapiric structures. N–S oriented transpressive deformation is likely to occur in the western Portuguese platform. There is no continuity of structures from the oceanic to the continental domain, suggesting that deformation transfers from one side to the other through a transcurrent fault zone. The fault contact between the two domains is located in the ocean-continent transition zone.     

赤道西太平洋大气边界层的诊断分析

利用１９９３年ＥＮＳＯ事件爆发（４月）前酝酿时期“热带大洋与全球大气－海洋耦合响应试验”强化观测阶段“向阳红五号”科学考察船１５５°Ｅ，２°Ｓ定点海洋气象和高空大气探测资料，分析了赤道西太平洋大气边界层特征。结果表明：赤道西太平洋上空辐合对流区边界层内也有等温或逆温层存在，大气边界层物理参数变化与大尺度海－气变异有密切关系，赤道太平洋沃克环流加强、东移，边界层上部逆温层出现概率明显增大，边界层内高湿层湿度减小。另外，边界层内实测风速、风向廓线随高度的变化基本上不服从Ｅｋｍａｎ规律，但由其平均，分量合成得到的平均风随高度的变化却基本符合Ｅｋｍａｎ规律。     

Study on the characteristics of the marine boundary layer in the Equatorial Pacific

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Second-Order Wave Diffraction Around 3-D Bodies by A Time-Domain Method

A time-domain method is applied to simulate nonlinear wave diffraction around a surface piercing 3-D arbitrary body. The method involves the application of Taylor series expansions and the use of perturbation procedure to establish the corresponding boundary value problems with respect to a time-independent fluid domain. A boundary element method based on B-spline expansion is used to calculate the wave field at each time step, and the free surface boundary condition is satisfied to the second order of wave steepness by a numerical integration in time. An artificial damping layer is adopted on the free surface for the removal of wave reflection from the outer boundary. As an illustration, the method is used to compute the second-order wave forces and run-up on a surface-piercing circular cylinder. The present method is found to be accurate, computationally efficient, and numerically stable.     

“暖池”表层对大气局地强迫的响应特征

利用湍流动能垂直混合模式和ＴＯＧＡ－ＣＯＡＲＥ加强观测期的观测资料,对“暖池”上混合层的垂直混合过程进行数值试验和数值模拟,分析表层温度、盐度的变化特征。结果表明：ＴＫＥ模式可以较好地模拟混层,尤其是表层温度、盐度对大气局地强迫的响应;太阳辐射是热源,感热、潜热通量等会造成“暖池”上混合层的温度降低,“暖池”对大气释放热量;降水有利于“淡水盖”形成和维持,从则使层结稳定,ＳＳＴ升高。但在气温低于海