Verification of significant wave representation method

The significant wave representation method is the simplest method for computing the transformation of significant wave height across-shore. However, many engineers are reluctant to use this method because many researchers have pointed out that the method possibly contains a large estimation error. Nevertheless, Rattanapitikon et al. [Rattanapitikon, W., Karunchintadit, R., Shibayama, T., 2003. Irregular wave height transformation using representative wave approach. Coastal Engineering Journal, JSCE 45(3), 489–510.] showed that the wave representation method could be used to compute the transformation of root mean square wave heights. It may also be possible to use it for computing the significant wave height transformation. Therefore, this study was carried out to examine the possibility of simulating significant wave height transformation across-shore by using the significant wave representation method. Laboratory data from small- and large-scale wave flumes were used to calibrate and examine the models. Six regular wave models were applied directly to irregular waves by using the significant wave height and spectral peak period. The examination showed that three regular wave models (with new coefficients) could be used to compute the significant wave height transformation with very good accuracy. On the strength of both accuracy and simplicity of the three models, a suitable model is recommended for computing the significant wave height transformation. The suitable model was also modified for better predictions. The modified model (with different coefficients) can be used to compute either regular wave height or significant wave height transformation across-shore.     

Solution of the propagation of the waves in open channels by the transfer matrix method

Many problems in mechanics can be solved by the use of the transfer matrix method. The use of this method in hydraulics engineering is not widespread and only limited studies are available. In this study, linearized St. Venant equations were used and the use of transfer matrix in ocean engineering was investigated for long waves in open channels, and numerical application was carried out. The results obtained through the transfer matrix method, which is quite easy to use, program and comprehend, showed similar results obtained from the characteristics method and finite differences method.     

极限波浪运动特性的非线性数值模拟

利用时域高阶边界元方法建立了模拟极限波浪运动的完全非线性数值模型,其中自由水面满足完全非线性自由水面条件.采用半混合欧拉-拉格朗日方法追踪流体瞬时水面,运用四阶Runge-Kutta方法更新下一时间步的波面和速度势,同时应用镜像格林函数消除水槽两个侧面和底面上的积分.研究中利用波浪聚焦的方法产生极限波浪,并且在水槽中开展了物理模型实验,将测点试验数据与数值结果进行了对比,两者吻合得很好.对极限波浪运动的非线性和流域内速度分布进行了研究.     

Microbial photosynthesis in coral reef sediments (Heron Reef, Australia)

We investigated microphytobenthic photosynthesis at four stations in the coral reef sediments at Heron Reef, Australia. The microphytobenthos was dominated by diatoms, dinoflagellates and cyanobacteria, as indicated by biomarker pigment analysis. Conspicuous algae firmly attached to the sand grains (ca. 100 μm in diameter, surrounded by a hard transparent wall) were rich in peridinin, a marker pigment for dinoflagellates, but also showed a high diversity based on cyanobacterial 16S rDNA gene sequence analysis. Specimens of these algae that were buried below the photic zone exhibited an unexpected stimulation of respiration by light, resulting in an increase of local oxygen concentrations upon darkening. Net photosynthesis of the sediments varied between 1.9 and 8.5 mmol O₂ m⁻² h⁻¹ and was strongly correlated with Chl a content, which lay between 31 and 84 mg m⁻². An estimate based on our spatially limited dataset indicates that the microphytobenthic production for the entire reef is in the order of magnitude of the production estimated for corals. Photosynthesis stimulated calcification at all investigated sites (0.2–1.0 mmol Ca²⁺ m⁻² h⁻¹). The sediments of at least three stations were net calcifying. Sedimentary N₂-fixation rates (measured by acetylene reduction assays at two sites) ranged between 0.9 to 3.9 mmol N₂ m⁻² h⁻¹ and were highest in the light, indicating the importance of heterocystous cyanobacteria. In coral fingers no N₂-fixation was measurable, which stresses the importance of the sediment compartment for reef nitrogen cycling.     

Simulation of nonlinear wave run-up with a high-order Boussinesq model

This paper considers the numerical simulation of nonlinear wave run-up within a highly accurate Boussinesq-type model. Moving wet–dry boundary algorithms based on so-called extrapolating boundary techniques are utilized, and a new variant of this approach is proposed in two horizontal dimensions. As validation, computed results involving the nonlinear run-up of periodic as well as transient waves on a sloping beach are considered in a single horizontal dimension, demonstrating excellent agreement with analytical solutions for both the free surface and horizontal velocity. In two horizontal dimensions cases involving long wave resonance in a parabolic basin, solitary wave evolution in a triangular channel, and solitary wave run-up on a circular conical island are considered. In each case the computed results compare well against available analytical solutions or experimental measurements. The ability to accurately simulate a moving wet–dry boundary is of considerable practical importance within coastal engineering, and the extension described in this work significantly improves the nearshore versatility of the present high-order Boussinesq approach.     

黄河水下三角洲海底管道沉降量确定方法研究

提出一种海底管道沉降计算方法——递推法,应用到胜利油田埕岛海域海底管道沉降计算中,并将计算结果与目前常用的日本规范法和极限法进行比较。研究发现在粉土与粉质粘土为主的强度较高的海床上,递推法与日本规范法计算结果比较接近,极限法的最小;在淤泥质土组成的强度较低的海床上,日本规范法的计算值最大,递推法的居中,极限法的最小。逆推法可计算裸置和埋设两种形式的管道沉降量,而另外两者只能计算裸置管道的沉降。文中进一步讨论了引起管道沉降的影响因素,土体强度和压缩性对管道沉降影响较大。且管道埋深越大,沉降也越大。最后分析了黄河水下三角洲埕岛海域4个区的管道沉降量,Ⅰ区争Ⅱ区管道沉降较小,可以忽略,Ⅳ区沉降较大,在淤泥质软土上的管道,可能会完全陷入土中。     

落球法测量高频振动对淤泥的液化效果

为了提高疏浚工程中管道输送淤泥的效率,对淤泥预处理技术——高频微幅振动液化技术进行了初步研究。主要介绍了落球法测量淤泥粘滞系数的实验,对不同性质的淤泥分别进行实验,根据距离振动棒不同位置的小球的沉降速度求出相应位置的粘滞系数,并将其进行比较,获得液化影响范围。实验结果表明,高频振动对于粉砂质淤泥具有良好的液化效果。     

支持向量机在海洋随机资料分析中的应用

在随机海洋资料的分析中,需要从大量的实际数据中提取出有用的信息来建立或检验各种海洋理论模型,因此我们要正确运用适当的手段来分析处理各种实际数据。文中简要介绍了数据挖掘中一项新的技术支持向量机,着重介绍了最优化问题的求解算法,以及如何应用于海洋资料的分析处理。     

一种适合海洋环境温度测量的新方法

介绍了一种崭新的海洋环境温度测量方法,也可以说是一种崭新的温度测量传感器。它直接输出温度数字量,连接PC机极为方便。文中介绍了该方法的测量原理和特点;介绍了室内和海上的试验情况,给出了试验数据和曲线;展望了广阔的应用前景。     

基于声波探测海底浅层沉积物特性的方法研究

利用声波在水中的传输特性进行海底浅层沉积物特性的探测。在实践应用中有实验室方法、现场测量方法和海底声学遥测方法,并研制出大量的仪器。由于海上和海底实际条件的限制,声波探测方法都存在一定的不足之处,由此提出了声衰减测试沉积物特性以及建立实验室模拟海底环境探测方法的设想。