Cross-shore variation of long-term average longshore current velocity in the nearshore zone

The cross-shore variation of long-term average longshore current velocity was investigated on the basis of a 15-year data set of longshore current, wave and wind. The longshore current velocities were measured once a day along a 427-m-long pier. The results show that the direction of the long-term average longshore current velocity away (>200 m) from the shore was the opposite to that near the shore. The southward current was dominant offshore, whereas the northward current was dominant near the shore. The cross-shore variation of the long-term average longshore current velocity was formed owing to a difference between the wave and wind conditions when the northward and southward currents developed. When the northward current developed, the offshore wave height was relatively small and the frequency of the southward wind velocity was almost equal to that of the northward one. As a result, the northward current developed only near the shore and decayed outside the narrow surf zone. On the other hand, when the southward current developed, the offshore wave height was relatively large and the southward wind velocity was predominant, which resulted in the southward current developing not only in the wide surf zone but also outside the surf zone. The superposition of the two cross-shore variations produced a cross-shore variation of the long-term average longshore current velocity with a northward velocity near the shore and a southward velocity away from the shore.     

Extreme wave event along the Guyana coastline in October 2005

The objective of the research is to analyze in detail the causes and consequences of the unusual event at the coast of Guyana (South America) during October 16–19, 2005. Several sea defense structures were damaged and flooding of low-lying areas occurred. A data analysis of offshore wave and water level characteristics shows an abrupt change in wave direction from east to almost north on October 16, 2005 and a sudden increase in the offshore peak period up to extreme values. The offshore significant wave height was also relatively high, and these wave characteristics coincided with springtide conditions. The long-wave periods and the sharp transition in wave direction indicate that this event is associated with swell waves generated by a depression far away. An analysis of hurricanes and depressions reveals that a severe depression in the Northern Atlantic Ocean during October 11–15 was the origin of this swell event. Numerical computations with SWAN have been carried out to investigate the propagation of the offshore wave characteristics towards the shoreline. The SWAN model includes wave damping due to the presence of soft mud deposits. A calibration of the parameters has been carried out using joint offshore and onshore wave data from November 2006. The numerical simulations of the event in October 2005 clearly demonstrate that the mud banks damp the wave heights, but have almost no effect on the peak period. The resulting waves at the steep sea walls can be classified as surging waves causing severe runup and overtopping. The obtained insights are translated into practical recommendations for the Guyana Sea and River Defence Division in Guyana to build a sustainable management and maintenance of the sea defenses in the future.     

Ventifacts and wind-abraded rock features in the Taylor Valley, Antarctica

An area north of Lake Fryxell in the Taylor Valley, Antarctica, was surveyed to determine the frequency of occurrence of rocks that show strong evidence of wind abrasion and ventifaction, which is defined here as rocks having well-developed faceting, to define their relative abundance in this area of the ice-free McMurdo Dry Valley system and to provide an indication of the role of wind as a geomorphic agent in this area. The orientation of abrasion-caused features (facets, keels, and grooves) with respect to the present day wind regime is also described. Rocks were examined on five linear transects ranging from 300 to 510 m in length. A total of 1324 rocks were examined. On average, 60% of all rocks exhibited distinct wind abrasion features with polish being the most common feature and polished rocks were distributed equally between survey lines, suggesting abrasion was ubiquitous in the study area. Approximately 4% of the rocks had distinct facets and/or keels, and fine-grained ultramafic peridotite-type rocks produced the most finely-featured forms (i.e., sharp facet edges and keels). A larger percentage, ≈ 12.5%, had grooves. Grooves were typically associated with a tabular form of mafic diabase-type igneous rock. The distribution of faceted ventifacts and grooved rocks was not uniform for the five transects, suggesting that the distribution mechanism for the surface rocks and the source areas determined, to a large extent, what form of ventifact could be produced at a location. The orientation of the grooves and dip directions of the facets indicates the direction of the abrasive winds had a strong westerly component, which coincides with the modern wind regime of winter katabatic flows that move down valley toward the Ross Sea. The orientation of the facets and grooves suggests that the rate of formation of the ventifacts proceeds at a pace greater than other surficial processes (e.g., down-slope soil movement, cryoturbation), which should tend to remove trends in the facet and groove orientations, or that the down-slope movement of the surface is approximately perpendicular to the wind allowing preservation of the alignment.     

Numerical Modelling Of Turbulent Airflow Over Water Waves

A nonlinear numerical model is developed for turbulent boundary-layer flowover a train of water waves of finite amplitude or slope. The airflow isassumed to be steady, two-dimensional, and neutrally-stratified. The wavesurface is assumed to be aerodynamically rough and flow conditions at thewave surface are prescribed. The numerical model used in this study adoptsthree turbulence closure schemes with different degrees of physicalcompleteness. Two of these are second-order schemes, whichare believed to describe turbulent flow more completely than thesimpler closures used in most previous studies. Although models with all turbulence closures agree qualitatively in the prediction of the amplitude of the surface normal stress perturbation, the lower- and higher-order closures differ significantly in predictions of phase, and hence the form drag and energy transfer rate between wind and waves. Our model results are in reasonable agreement with field and laboratory measurements, although predicted energy transfer rates are generally at the low end of the range of experimental values. Cases with airflow at various angles to the wave direction are also considered.     

多普勒雷达风场反演VAP方法的资料预处理

在分析了三类单多普勒雷达反演风场方法的基础上, 认为VAP方法是近期内可望在业务中应用的方法, 并指出VAP方法的关键是能否将原始资料中的中-U及以上尺度的风场信息过滤出来, 以消除中-V尺度以下风场信息对反演结果的影响.为此提出了二维区域滑动低通滤波方法对资料进行预处理.此外还对VAP方法的风速计算公式进行了改进以减小计算误差.     

1961—2020年郑州主城区大气自净能力变化特征分析

利用郑州市主城区1961—2020年气象观测资料和2014—2018年空气质量监测数据,分析了郑州主城区大气自净能力指数的长期变化趋势与影响因子以及2014—2018年主城区大气自净能力与PM_2.5的关系。结果表明：郑州主城区大气自净能力指数30 a气候均值为4.42 t·(d·km²)^-1,春季大气自净能力最强,为5.20 t·(d·km²)^-1;秋季大气自净能力最弱,为3.88 t·(d·km²)^-1,不利于对大气污染物的清除。1961—2020年郑州主城区大气自净能力呈显著的减弱趋势,其中1969年最强为6.85 t·(d·km²)^-1,2020年最弱为3.06 t·(d·km²)^-1。影响因子中,1961—1980年混合层厚度与大气自净能力指数呈正相关;日平均风速≥2.5 m·s^-1的日数和小风日数与大气自净能力分别呈...     

稳定风浪场谱特征量间的关系

风浪宏观特征量是描述风浪场特征的重要物理量。作者基于风浪有停留在混乱运动状态的趋势的性质对风浪场特征量间的关系进行了研究。主频波频率附近的波动自风摄取能量,风浪吸收的能量通过非线性相互作用在谱中重新分配。谱中能量的重新分配产生多尺度波动,这导致风浪波面的混乱运动(风浪处于混乱运动状态)。在稳定状态,风浪运动最为混乱。当风浪状态偏离最混乱运动状态,谱中非线性相互作用引起的能量重新分配将使风浪回到该状态。基于线性海浪理论导出风浪场特征量间的关系。导出的关系与观测结果进行了对比,发现理论结果与观测结果很好地符合。风浪场宏观特征量间存在固有关系。尽管目前风浪场特征量关系的观测结果存在差异,但本文中证明,所导出的理论关系与实验结果很好地符合。     

海洋湍流观测技术

湍流在海洋能量和水体的交换演化中起着非常重要的作用。海洋湍流研究的发展和海洋湍流观测仪器的研发密切相关。世界上湍流观测仪器的研发起步于上世纪50年代,但是我国在湍流观测设备方面到目前为止仅仅处于起步和引进国外设备阶段。针对我国的情况,文中对海洋湍流观测的平台、探头测量原理及其数据修正、资料后处理等关键技术做一个总结性的介绍,为我国使用引进的海洋湍流设备和自主开发海洋湍流测量设备提供参考。     

沙尘天气频率与相关气象因子的关系

基于北京及其周边14个国家基本气象站1971—2000年气象资料的相关分析,指出风速、相对湿度是影响沙尘天气的关键气象因子,用这两个气象因子构建了月沙尘气象指数。月沙尘气象指数与沙尘天气频率具有较一致的周期性,沙尘天气日的沙尘气象指数是非沙尘日指数的倍数关系。另外,根据月沙尘气象指数在不同月份的分布特征,给出了相应的季节性气象指数计算方法,对14个站计算的结果显示,季节性气象指数与沙尘天气频率有很好的线性关系,这种线性关系具有明显的区域特征。