风浪频谱中的特征量

在三参量风浪频谱的基础上对谱参量进行深入地研究,给出了谱参量与风场要素、波场要素的关系,提供了依据风场要素、波场要素及实测波浪资料计算谱参量的方法。从而可以依据上述因素直接计算出三参量风浪频谱。此外还根据谱宽度的变化,描述了风浪频谱的成长方式,解释了传统的波陡、波龄关系中经验常数的不同选取所代表的物理背景。     

南海波高熵和风速熵

根据风速的统计分布，给出了有因次风速熵和无因次风速熵的定义及其计算方法，使用ＧＥＯＳＡＴ高度计１９８６年１１月－１９８９年２月的有效波高和风速的资料，计算，分析了南海海域上的波高熵，风速熵，给出它们的时间变化特征和空间变化特征，并对不同随机量的无因次熵，即随机度进行了比较。     

Carbon balance in a salt marsh: Interactions of diffusive export, tidal deposition and rainfall-caused erosion

Studies of the concentrations of particulate and dissolved organic carbon in the Duplin River, of the tidal exchange of POC and DOC in the marsh, of the standing stock and movement of Spartina alterniflora wrack in the Duplin, and of the removal of carbon from the surface of the marsh by rain were conducted at Sapelo Island, Georgia in order to test three hypotheses about export of carbon from the Duplin River watershed. We found that the gradients in POC and DOC concentrations are such that carbon is being transported down the Duplin River throughout the year, although in smaller quantities than previously believed. In contrast, almost all tidal exchanges within the marsh result in deposition of carbon. Most of this deposited carbon is subsequently eroded as a result of rain falling on the exposed marsh surface, and is washed back into the tidal creeks. This cycle of deposition and erosion is a possible mechanism keeping POC in the thin aerobic surface layer of the marsh, thus increasing its availability to detritivores and aerobic microbes. The standing stock of wrack is only a fraction of the S. alterniflora produced each year, and its export is a negligible term in the carbon balance equation.     

Bathymetry of the Tonga Trench and Forearc: a map series

Four new bathymetric maps of the Tonga Trench and forearc between 14 °S and 27 °S display the important morphologic and structural features of this dynamic convergent margin. The maps document a number of important geologic features of the margin. Major normal faults and fault lineaments on the Tonga platform can be traced along and across the upper trench slope. Numerous submarine canyons incised in the landward slope of the trench mark the pathways of sediment transport from the platform to mid- and lower-slope basins. Discontinuities in the trench axis and changes in the morphology of the landward slope can be clearly documented and may be associated with the passage and subduction of the Louisville Ridge and other structures on the subducting Pacific Plate. Changes in the morphology of the forearc as convergence changes from normal in the south to highly-oblique in the north are clearly documented. The bathymetric compilations, gridded at 500- and 200-m resolutions and extending along 500 km of the landward trench slope and axis, provide complete coverage of the outer forearc from the latitude of the Louisville Ridge-Tonga Trench collision to the northern terminus of the Tonga Ridge. These maps should serve as a valuable reference for other sea-going programs in the region, particularly the Ocean Drilling Program (ODP) and the National Science Foundation MARGINS initiative.     

略论护岸工程的负面影响：以美国护岸工程为例

长久以来,人们采用各咎护岸工程保护遭受侵蚀的岸段,却忽视了由这些护岸建筑引起的负面效应－－干坝、突堤、离岸堤可导致邻近岸段的蚀退;海提、护岸至少经岸下蚀;海滩的人工再塑难以解决沙源,一个护岸工程,不仅要在工程上可行,还应地周边环境产生负面影响,本文就此提出了几点建议。     

中国南海东部海域气候特征及风浪流极值参数的研究——LAGFD数值模式群的应用

本文采用先进的ＬＡＧＦＤ风、浪数值模式和ＰＯＭ（ＰｒｉｎｃｅｔｏｎＯｃｅａｎＭｏｄｅｌ）三维海流模式对自１９４５～１９９５年间发生并影响南海东部海域的２９９个历史最强热带气旋过程进行数值后报,给出了南海东部部分海域（１９°～２３°Ｎ,１１３°～１１８°Ｅ）中１０００ｍ等深线内６０个点的多年一遇风、浪、流和水位极值,并简要分析了南海东部（１５°～２７°Ｎ,１０８°～１２２°Ｅ）的气候特征,为该海域区域性海洋环境研究与工程开发提供了基础参考数据。     

未来海平面上升对厦门海滩侵蚀的测算

本文通过波浪计算和理论海滩剖面方程的拟合,以Ｂｒｕｕｎ模式为基础,根据Ｅｖｅｒｔｓ剖面积分方法,测算了厦门厦门大学海滨浴场、鼓浪屿港 仔后海滨浴场沙滩未来１００ａ海平面上升引起的海滩后退量值。与此同时,计算了Ｂｒｕｕｎ模式的结果。计算结果表明,两处海滨浴 滩的后退值分别为１４．８１和１３．９５ｍ与Ｂｒｕｕｎ模式的结果相当接近。     

Study on Coastal Protection Engineering in the Area of Abandoned Yellow River Mouth

This paper reviews the history of coast evolution and coastal protection in the area of theabandoned Yellow River mouth in Jiangsu Province,analyzes the erosion characteristics and dynamic en-vironment,evaluates the efficiency of coastal protection engineering works and designs the dimensions ofthe main seadike and offshore submerged dam.A gerneral scheme of shore protection for this area is pro-posed.     

海阳市典型砂质海岸侵蚀机制与防护对策研究

海阳市砂质海岸资源丰富,延绵近120 km,尤以万米沙滩浴场著称,但近年岸滩侵蚀严重影响其社会经济发展.本研究基于海阳市羊角畔两侧长约20 km典型砂质海岸连续3 a的海岸线蚀和典型剖面蚀淤调查,定量化研究海滩侵蚀及其变化,辅以一维数值模型,研究人类活动影响下的泥沙运动特征和海滩侵蚀机制.研究结果表明,调查区42.5％...     

南海西沙海域永乐海底峡谷形成演化过程分析

远海孤立碳酸盐台地周缘发育了碳酸盐岩峡谷,对其开展研究有助于深刻理解碳酸盐碎屑沉积物的“源-汇”体系及深水油气成藏等方面。文章利用多波束测深、高分辨率二维多道地震等数据,精细刻画南海西沙海域永乐海底峡谷的地貌形态及内部充填特征,揭示该峡谷沉积演化过程,分析峡谷成因控制因素及稳定性。永乐海底峡谷形成演化可分为萌芽、汇聚和拓展3个阶段,随着演化过程的发展,峡谷规模及对沉积物输运作用增加。永乐海底峡谷形成及演化主要受古地貌隆起形成的负地形和沉积物重力流侵蚀作用影响。峡谷在第四纪以后仍有较明显的活动迹象。分析显示永乐海底峡谷是西北次海盆的重要物质输送通道,其沉积演化过程及稳定性对研究碳酸盐台地沉积物输运等深水沉积过程及岛礁工程建设具有一定参考意义。