Modelling of run up of steep non-breaking waves

A Navier–Stokes solver is used to examine steep waves as they run up a steep beach (10.54°). The volume of fluid method (VOF) is used to model the free surface. Comparison with experimental results shows reasonable overall agreement in the prediction of the free-surface, velocities and accelerations within the flow. A spurious feature at the free-surface was found which does reduce the quality of the results. For a steep wave we see the transition from a steep wave front to a smooth run-up tongue at the beach that is in qualitative agreement with experiment.     

Wave effects on ascending and descending motions of the autonomous underwater vehicle

In the paper, a hydrodynamic model including the characteristics of maneuvering and seakeeping is developed to simulate the six-degree of freedom motions of the underwater vehicle steering near the sea surface. The corresponding wave exciting forces on the underwater vehicle moving in waves are calculated by the strip theory, which is based on the source distribution method. With the hydrodynamic coefficients relevant to the maneuvering and seakeeping, the fourth-order Runge–Kutta numerical method is adopted to solve the equations of motions and six-degrees of freedom of the motions for the underwater vehicle steering near the free surface can be obtained. The wave effect on the corresponding motions of the underwater vehicle is investigated and some interesting phenomena with respect to different wave frequencies and headings are observed. The hydrodynamic numerical model developed here can be served as a valuable tool for analyzing the ascending and descending behaviors of the underwater vehicle near the sea surface.     

Wave motion over a breakwater system of a horizontal plate and a vertical porous wall

A two-dimensional analytical solution is presented to study the reflection and transmission of linear water waves propagating past a submerged horizontal plate and through a vertical porous wall. The velocity potential in each fluid domain is formulated using three sets of orthogonal eigenfunctions and the unknown coefficients are determined from the matching conditions. Wave elevations and hydrodynamic forces acting on the porous wall are computed. Reflection and transmission coefficients are presented to examine the performance of the breakwater system. The present analytical solutions are found in fairly good agreement with the available laboratory data. The results indicate that the plate length, the porous-effect, the gap between plate and porous wall, and the submerged depth of the plate all show a significant influence on the reflected and transmitted wave fields. It is also interesting to note that the submerged plate plays an important role in reducing the transmitted wave height, especially for long incident waves.     

Internal characteristics and numerical analysis of plunging breaker on a slope

Many investigations about the direct measurements of velocities to clarify the internal mechanism of the breaker have been carried out as a result of recent progress in the measuring techniques.This research attempts to clarify the breaking wave transformation system on a slope by an experiment and numerical analysis. In an experiment, the velocities in the surf zone were measured directly using an electromagnetic current meter, and the space distribution characteristic of the vorticity ω = (∂u/∂y − ∂u/∂x) and the skewness γ = (∂u/∂y + ∂u/∂x) were examined. Also, occurrence situations of the vortices at the time of water mass inrush were measured by video tape recorder (VTR) image processing. However, because the breaker is a violent phenomenon that is entrained with plentiful bubbles, the extent to which we can clarify breaker transformation in experiments is limited. Numerical simulations are substituted for experiments as a method to clarify breaker transformation.In numerical analysis, finite amplitude wave analysis based on the potential theory (non-viscous fluid) is possible before wave breaking; however, the analysis must take into account the viscous fluid after breaking. So, we use the Reynolds equations to develop a numerical simulation system of the breaker transformation on a sloping bottom. The numerical energy dissipation model of the breaker was compared to the experimental results, and a modified Simplified Marker and Cell (SMAC) method is presented. The internal characteristics of the breaker transformation are described using application examples.     

波流共同作用下废黄河河口水下三角洲地形演变预测模式

通过对废黄河河口水下三角洲海域水文、泥沙、沉积和地形的调查分析，对组成水下三角洲-10--15m以深的平坦海床、-5--10m间的水下斜坡、-5m以浅的近岸浅滩三个地貌单元的水动力特征以及在波流和潮流作用下底部泥沙冲刷率的横向分布进行计算分析，并建立了水下三角洲地形横向剖面地形的演变预测模式。结果表明，在三角洲不同地貌单元内。由于所处不同的水动力条件和底部泥沙特性，出现了不同的侵蚀状态，其中在-10--15m以深的平坦海床，除了3m以上的大浪外，水动力作用以强劲的潮流冲刷为主，目前已接近冲刷相对平衡的状态，在-5--10m间的水下斜坡，受波浪和潮流的共同作用，冲刷强度大，地形剖面呈继续平行后退状态；-5m以浅的近岸浅滩，潮流作用相对较弱，以波浪为滩面的剧低为主，水深线不断向岸方向移动、滩宽变窄；0m以上的潮间带滩地，则波浪和潮流作用均较弱，近岸高滩接近相对稳定状态，有利于海岸线的工程防护。     

风浪在开敞潮滩短期演变中的作用——以南汇东滩为例

本文以引水船站风和波浪的相关性为理论依据,以南汇东滩滩面实测资料为基础,说明风浪是控制开敞潮滩短期演变的主要动力因子。     

Characteristic analysis of wind field and sea wave field over the NW Pacific Ocean

The NW Pacific Ocean is not onIy the only transportation way between America andAsia, but also the source influencing on inIand climate and marine variability of adjacentseas in China. Based on ship observation data during l950 - l995 in the NW Pacific,with data from several hundreds to 30 thousand in every 5"x5" grid network, throughanalyzing the monthly mean directions of prevailing wind, wave and swelI, wind speed,pressure, wave height and frequencies of gaIe of 6 and 8 sca1e, high sea…     

An identification of wave propagation based on a single-point measurement

This study presents the identification of wave propagation using the information measured at a fixed point. The mathematical model used to carry out this research is an integral equation. The equation turned out to be a Fredholm integral equation of the first kind. The discretized matrix equation yielded an ill-conditioned system. To secure the stability of the system, Tikhonov regularization was applied to the ill-conditioned system. The analysis of the numerical computation proved that the regularization was able to retain the target spectrum.     

塘沽近海海域海浪的基本特征

本文对在海洋钻井平台上连续观测6a的波浪资料进行了统计、分析，结果表明，本区大浪主要发生在秋季，多年按月统计极值波高11月最大，为5．3m（东北向），7月最小，为2．8m；波浪总特征表现为秋季强，春季次之，夏季最弱的特征。表中所示波浪特征值，在塘沽海城海洋工程建设中具有重要的价值．     

Wave resistance for high-speed catamarans

The object of this study was to investigate the wave resistance component for high-speed catamarans. Two methods were applied: the slender-body theory proposed by Michell [Philos. Mag. 45(5) (1898) 106] and a 3D method used by Shipflow^™ (FLOWTECH, Shipflow^™ 2.4, User Manual, 1988) software.Results were obtained for different types of twin hulls and attention was given to the effects of catamaran hull spacing.The study also included the effects of shallow water on the wave resistance component.Special attention was given to the height of waves generated by the craft to ascertain effects on river banks.