波峰特征量的统计分布

本文在作者另文数值模拟得到的三维海浪基础上 ,进一步分析给出了三维波峰长度、高度及方向角度等特征量的统计分布。发现考虑海浪的方向性质后波峰分布不再是均匀连续的 ;波峰的长度分布受方向函数影响 ,方向分布越宽 ,波峰的平均长度越短 ,波峰的方向角分布越宽 ;波峰高度和长度在波峰高度较小时有很大的相关性 ,而在波峰高度很大时无关     

Effect of Sea Level Variation on Tidal Characteristic Values for the East China Sea

1 .IntroductionTheglobalairtemperatureroseabout 0 .5～ 0 .6°Coverthepast 2 0thcentury ,andtheglobalmeansealevelincreasedbyabout2 0cmduringtheperiod .Theregionalmeansealevelriseswiththerisingglobalmeansealevel.Zuoetal.( 1 997)indicatedthatthemeanrisingrateofabsolutemeansealevelalongtheChinacoastontheassumptionofunifiedisostaticdatumis 2mm a .Woodworth( 1 999)analyzedsealevelspanning 1 76 8tothepresentinLiverpool,andobtainedaseculartrendforheperiodupto 1 880of0 .39± 0 .1 7mm a ,andatrendfort…     

A Three-Point Method for Separating Incident and Reflected Waves over A Sloping Bed

This study presents a three-point method for separating incident and reflected waves to explain normally incident waves' propagating over a sloping bed. Linear wave shoaling is used to determine changes in wave amplitude and phase in response to variations of bathymetry. The wave reflection coefficient and incident amplitude are estimated from wave heights measured at three fixed wave gauges with unequal spacing. Sensitivity analysis demonstrates that the proposed method can predict the reflection and amplitude of waves over a sloping bed more accurately than the two-point method.     

层结流体中的非线性惯性重力内波

根据地球流体力学基本方程组,在密度垂直层结的情况下,引进行波坐标,研究非线性定形波在相平面上的几何拓扑结构。严格论证了不存在定形孤立波,并通过Ｈａｍｉｌｔｏｎ函数及其角作用变把行波系统化成最简形式,由此而得到非线性惯性重力内波的解析解。     

青岛地区的台风暴潮与潮灾

本文分析了青岛沿海地区的台风暴潮灾害状况，给出了潮位与海浪的联合作用对灾的影响关系式，提出了今后风暴潮预报的思路。     

Effects of Irregular Wave Groups on Pile Forces

The wave forces on 1, 2 and 4 vertical circular piles under the action of several wave trains of the same wave parameters, such as Hs,Tp and Mo, but different wave group factor GF are measured in the laboratory. After comparing these forces, it may be concluded that the mean and significant wave forces are almost of no difference for the wave trains with different GF. When GF is larger, the one-tenth of the wave froce extreme is slightly increased and the maximum wave force is much larger than the ones with smaller GF, to which attention must be paid in engineering practice.     

Wave group statistics from numerical simulations of a random sea

Two commonly used methods of simulating random time series, given a target power spectrum, are discussed. Wave group statistics, such as the mean length of runs of high waves, produced by the different simulation schemes are compared. The target spectra used are obtained from ocean measurements, and cover a wide range of ocean conditions. For a sufficiently large number of spectral components, no significant differences are found in the wave group statistics produced by the two simulation techniques.     

风浪周期分布与谱宽度的关系

本文通过分析实验室风浪周期分布,发现风浪周期累积概率分布曲线低于Longuet-Higgins理论结果,在小概率周期区域实验结果与理论结果的差异明显。对实验结果进一步分析发现,在谱不是很窄时,在小概率处风浪周期累积概率随谱宽度的增大而降低,这与窄谱假定下的理论结果相反,Longuet-Higgins理论结果在小概率处不便于描述周期分布随谱宽度的变化。根据实验结果提出风浪周期的Weibull分布经验公式,Weibull分布中的参数依赖于谱宽度。     

声波对海洋生物的影响与作用的研究

本文研究了声波对某些海洋生物的影响与作用。实验表明，适当的声波剂量对海洋生物的作用所产生的声学生物效应是积极的，可促使生物体向有利的方向产生变异，而强度过大的声波对海洋生物有效伤甚至致死的效应。     

南海北部海区上层水体平均声速场的变化

对所收集到的南海北部海区的温度、盐度和深度历史资料进行了声速的计算、统计与分析,结果表明该海区上层水体的平均声速场有较明显的年际变化:表层声速的平面分布显示出沿岸水与外海水强弱交替变化的特征,声速等值线的走向几乎与岸线平行,等声速线的值自近岸向外海增加,大陆架外缘海区声速的水平梯度较大;下层声速的分布以环流和水体共同作用的形式出现,50m层声速平面分布的趋势除冬季与表层稍为相似外,其余季节与表层有明显的差别,春、夏季节50m层声速自西向东增加,而秋季与其表层分布相反,自近岸向外海减小;声速的垂直分布受海水升温与降温的影响显著,春、夏季表层海水升温,海表声速最大,声速自海表随深度的增加而减小;秋、冬季表层附近水层降温,声速稍偏低,普遍出现正梯度现象,最大声速移至表层以下的水层,这个深度随季节的改变而改变,随海区的不同而不同.该海区的平均声速有年波动现象,表层波幅最大,随深度的增加波幅变小,至100m水层其波动的位相几乎与表层相反.