双峰谱型海浪的波高和周期分布

本文利用收集到的实测双峰谱型海浪过程资料，把这些资料以波高和周期的相关系数为参数分成５组，讨论每组双峰谱型下被高、周期的统计分布．并探讨了相关系数对波高分布和周期分布的影响。     

海底浅层介质切变波的初步研究

初步分析了中国沿海海底浅层介质切变波的传播特性,讨论了多种海底浅层介质切变波与压缩波、物理力学性质之间的关系,并与Hamilton和Chen等人的结果进行了比较。认为海底浅层介质存在切变模量,切变波可以被测量出来,切变波速为50—600m·s-1,测量频率在50—200kHz之间,用波速比可以评价海底浅层介质的应力 应变性质。研究工作有助于描述和评价中国沿海海底浅层介质声学物理性状,并为最终建立中国沿海海底地声模型提供依据。     

Effects of scattering and resonance on energy dissipation of an internal tide in a narrow shelf

The effects of scattering and resonance on the energy dissipation of an internal tide were investigated using a two-dimensional model which is a reassembled version of the theoretical generation model devised by Rattray et al. (1969) for internal tide. The basic character of the scattering process at the step bottom was first investigated with a wide shelf model. When the internal wave incited from a deep region (Region II) into the shallow shelf region (Region I), a passing wave into the shallow region, a reflected wave into the deep region, and a beam-like wave, i.e. a scattered wave (SW), emanated at the step bottom. The SW, which consists of the superposition of numerous internal modes, propagated upward/downward into both regions. The general properties of the SW were well expressed around the shelf edge, even in the present model with viscosity effect. The amplitude of the SW decreased dramatically when the depth of the velocity maximum of the incident internal wave in Region II corresponded with the depth of the shelf edge. In the narrow shelf model, where the decay distance of the internal wave in Region I is longer than the shelf width, the incident internal wave reflected at the coast to form a standing wave. When the internal wave in Region I is enhanced by the resonance, the energy of the SW in Region II is also intensified. Furthermore, the energy of the modes in Region II predominated when the velocity maximum is identical to that of the dominant mode in Region I. These results suggest that the spatial scale of shelf region is a very important factor governing the energy dissipation of the internal tide through reflection and scattering in a narrow shelf.     

深海资料浮标体及系泊系统的阻力试验研究

本文结合国家“七五”重点科技攻关项目“深海资料浮标”研制而进行浮标体和系泊系统的各种阻力试验研究，试验成果已直接应用于深海资料浮标系泊系统设计。实践表明本文介绍的各种阻力试验结果是可靠的。     

南海北部—观测点内潮特征的初步分析

采用功率谱分析、调和分析等方法，对南海北部－观测点连续９ｄ（１９８８年５月８—１６日）的温度。盐度和海流及跨越该期间较长的（１９８８年４月２４日－７月２２日）潮位资料进行了分析研究。结果表明，观测点存在着一种内潮现象，其波动的周期在２４ｈ左右，它传播的方向大体是偏北。     

分层海洋的内孤立波

本文从流体力学基本方程组出发,在非地转条件下导得了分层海洋的内孤立波方程—Kbv和mKdv方程,证实了在非地转条件下,一类海洋非线性波动是可以严格满足内孤立波方程的。在地转条件下采用f平面近似导出了KdV方程的演化形式一有源KdV方程,地转的影响含于源项中。由初步的分析得出,f对KdV方程的影响是微弱的。由已得的KdV和mKdV方程的解可知,内孤立波与线性波有着本质差别。     

Fully nonlinear numerical wave tank (NWT) simulations and wave run-up prediction around 3-D structures

A finite-difference scheme and a modified marker-and-cell (MAC) algorithm have been developed to investigate the interactions of fully nonlinear waves with two- or three-dimensional structures of arbitrary shape. The Navier–Stokes (NS) and continuity equations are solved in the computational domain and the boundary values are updated at each time step by the finite-difference time-marching scheme in the framework of a rectangular coordinate system. The fully nonlinear kinematic free-surface condition is implemented by the marker-density function (MDF) technique developed for two fluid layers.To demonstrate the capability and accuracy of the present method, the numerical simulation of backstep flows with free-surface, and the numerical tests of the MDF technique with limit functions are conducted. The 3D program was then applied to nonlinear wave interactions with conical gravity platforms of circular and octagonal cross-sections. The numerical prediction of maximum wave run-up on arctic structures is compared with the prediction of the Shore Protection Manual (SPM) method and those of linear and second-order diffraction analyses based on potential theory and boundary element method (BEM). Through this comparison, the effects of non-linearity and viscosity on wave loading and run-up are discussed.     

Outer wave number spectrum and statistical distribution of apparent wave number vector

Based on the ray theory and Longuet-Higgins’s linear model of sea waves, the joint distribution of wave envelope and apparent wave number vector is established. From the joint distribution, we define a new concept, namely the outer wave number spectrum, to describe the outer characteristics of ocean waves. The analytical form of the outer wave number spectrum, the probability distributions of the apparent wave number vector and its components are then derived. The outer wave number spectrum is compared with the inner wave number spectrum for the average status of wind-wave development corresponding to a peakness factor P = 3. Discussions on the similarity and difference between the outer wave number spectrum and inner one are also presented in the paper.     

Statistics of wave forces on large horizontal cylinders

To the first order in a Stokes expansion, the pressure force exerted by a sea state on a large horizontal cylinder represents a stationary random Gaussian process. A relationship is obtained between the spectrum of this process and the wave spectrum. As a consequence, the basic statistical properties of the height and period of the individual waves of the force-process are also obtained. It is proven that these statistical properties agree very well with the data from a small scale field experiment.     

波浪作用下海床动力反应的数值分析

近海和离岸建筑物的基通常处于连续不断的小风浪作用之下，可将其变形视为弹性。基于二维广义Biot理论，提出了线性或非线性波浪作用下饱和弹性海床动力应应的时域有限元数值解法。静力平衡条件和Biot方程组成的边值方程可视为其特例，在比较算例中，数值计算得到的孔压和有效应力幅值沿海床深度的分布与解析解十分吻合。土骨架和孔隙流体的加速度对海床动力反应的影响很小。具体算例表明，线性波沿缓坡海床传播时，土层中超静孔压和有效应力幅值随之增大，有可能发生滑动坡坏。所提出的数值解法能够灵活地处理非线性波浪荷载，海底复杂地质条件和波浪沿缓坡传播等复杂情况。