Mathematical Models for Combined Refraction-Diffraction of Waves on Non-Uniform Current and Depth

Two mathematical models for combined refraction-diffraction of regular and irregular waves on non-uniform current in water of slowly varying topography are presented in this paper. Model I is derived by wave theory and variational principle separately. It has two kinds of expressions including the dissipation term. Model n is based on the energy conservation equation with energy flux through the wave crest lines in orthogonal curvilinear coordinates and the wave kinematic conservation equation. The analysis and comparison and special cases of these two models are also given.     

Channelled erosion through a marine dump site of dredge spoils at the mouth of the Puyallup River, Washington State, USA

Channels are relatively common on river-mouth deltas, but the process by which they arise from river sediment discharge is unclear because they can potentially be explained either by negatively buoyant (hyperpycnal) flows produced directly from the river outflow or by flows generated by repeated failure and mobilisation of sediment rapidly deposited at the delta front. Channels eroded through a dump site of dredge spoils are described here from multibeam and older sonar data collected in Commencement Bay, at the mouth of the Puyallup River. Shallow channels on the seaward upper surface of the dump site, away from any flows that could have been produced by delta front failures, suggest that at least some hyperpycnal flows were produced directly from the positively buoyant river outflow up to 200 m from the edge of the river mouth platform. The form of channel bed erosion is revealed by the longitudinal shape of the main eroded channel compared with the adjacent dump site profile. It suggests that the channel evolved by its steep front retreating, rather than by simple vertical entrenchment or diffusive-like evolution of the profile, a geometry interpreted as evidence that repeated failure of the bed occurred in response to shear stress imposed by bottom-travelling flows. Model calculations based on shear strengths back-calculated from the geometry of channel wall failures suggest that, if the main channel were eroded solely by hyperpycnal flows, their generation was remarkably efficient in order to create flows vigorous enough to cause channel bed failure. Besides the sediment concentration and discharge characteristics that have been considered to dictate the ability of rivers to produce hyperpycnal flows, it is suggested that the timing of floods with respect to the tidal cycle should also be important because extreme low tides may be needed to ensure that coarse sediment is transferred vigorously to the edge of river mouth platforms.     

极端波浪条件下黏土质斜坡海床稳定性解析

海洋资源开发引起海底软黏土的结构性破坏,导致土体强度弱化,在百年一遇的极端波浪作用时极易发生斜坡海床的局部失稳甚至大范围海底滑坡,给海洋工程建设和正常运营带来严重影响。目前,主要采用极限平衡法评价这类海底斜坡,但该法只能给出近似解。基于极限分析上限方法,推导了极端波浪诱发的波压力对斜坡海床的做功功率,建立了外力功与内能耗散率平衡方程;利用最优化方法,结合数值积分和强度折减技术,求解了不同时刻的斜坡海床稳定性系数,并针对扰动后的斜坡海床开展了有限元解的对比验证。在此基础上,深入探讨了不同波浪参数(波长、波高和水深)和坡长小于一个波长等极端条件下的海底斜坡稳定性。     

Distribution and expression of gas seeps in a gas hydrate province of the northeastern Sakhalin continental slope, Sea of Okhotsk

Multidisciplinary surveys were conducted to investigate gas seepage and gas hydrate accumulation on the northeastern Sakhalin continental slope (NESS), Sea of Okhotsk, during joint Korean–Russian–Japanese expeditions conducted from 2003 to 2007 (CHAOS and SSGH projects). One hundred sixty-one gas seeps were detected in a 2000 km² area of the NESS (between 53°45′N and 54°45′N). Active gas seeps in a gas hydrate province on the NESS were evident from features in the water column, on the seafloor, and in the subsurface: well-defined hydroacoustic anomalies (gas flares), side-scan sonar structures with high backscatter intensity (seepage structures), bathymetric structures (pockmarks and mounds), gas- and gas-hydrate-related seismic features (bottom-simulating reflectors, gas chimneys, high-amplitude reflectors, and acoustic blanking), high methane concentrations in seawater, and gas hydrates in sediment near the seafloor. These expressions were generally spatially related; a gas flare would be associated with a seepage structure (mound), below which a gas chimney was present. The spatial distribution of gas seeps on the NESS is controlled by four types of geological structures: faults, the shelf break, seafloor canyons, and submarine slides. Gas chimneys that produced enhanced reflection on high-resolution seismic profiles are interpreted as active pathways for upward gas migration to the seafloor. The chimneys and gas flares are good indicators of active seepage.     

基于海图数据的水下岸坡插值精度分析对比研究

数字高程模型是研究水下岸坡冲淤变化的一种重要手段。不同的插值方法和像元大小都会对数字高程模型的精度产生影响,从而导致冲淤分析结果的变化。本研究使用了六种常用的插值方法 (ANUDEM、反距离函数法、克里金法、自然邻域法、样条函数法、不规则三角网转栅格法)对莱州湾和烟台港不同年份和尺度的水深数据进行了插值,计算了均方根预测误差、源数据残差均方根误差、残差均值、残差最大值和残差最小值等精度计算指标。结果表明ANUDEM和自然邻域法的均方根预测误差和源数据残差均方根误差均小于1 m。ANUDEM和自然邻域法对不同尺度的水下岸坡数据插值有着较好的适用性。     

长江河口潮波传播机制及阈值效应分析

河口潮波传播过程受沿程地形(如河宽辐聚、水深变化)及上游径流等诸多因素影响,时空变化复杂。径潮动力非线性相互作用研究有利于揭示河口潮波传播的动力学机制,对河口区水资源高效开发利用具有重要指导意义。本文基于2007—2009年长江河口沿程天生港、江阴、镇江、南京、马鞍山、芜湖的逐日高、低潮位数据及大通站日均流量数据,统计分析不同河段潮波衰减率与余水位坡度随流量的变化特征,结果表明潮波衰减率绝对值与余水位坡度随流量增大并不是单调递增,而是存在一个阈值流量和区域,对应潮波衰减效应的极大值。为揭示这一阈值现象,采用一维水动力解析模型对研究河段的潮波传播过程进行模拟。结果表明,潮波传播的阈值现象主要是由于洪季上游回水作用随流量加强,余水位及水深增大,导致河口辐聚程度减小,而余水位坡度为适应河口形状变化亦有所减小,从而形成相对应的阈值流量和区域。     

2016年夏季南海海盆水体颗粒物粒径分布特征*

颗粒物粒径分布(Particle Size Distribution, PSD)代表了颗粒物浓度与颗粒物粒径之间的关系, 影响着海洋生态环境和水体光学特性等。文章基于2016年夏季航次调查的生物光学剖面数据, 研究了南海海盆海域PSD的分布特征。研究发现, 幂律函数可以较好地拟合南海海盆区域的PSD, 对数空间中的实测的PSD与模拟的PSD平均决定系数高达0.95。PSD斜率(ξ)的分布范围为[1.27, 7.65], 均值为3.93±0.56。南海海盆区域表层水体的ξ均值与全球大洋表层水体的ξ均值相近, 但高于海湾等表层水体的ξ均值。ξ能较好地表征颗粒物平均粒径D_A的大小, 两者存在明显负相关关系, 即ξ值越高, D_A越小; 反之, D_A越大。通过分析T1断面的生物光学剖面数据及总体平均的PSD剖面数据, 发现PSD剖面分布特征如下: 1)表层水体的ξ值相对较高, 且D_A值相对较低, 推测可能是由于微微型藻类为主导颗粒物所致; 2) ξ值极小值层出现在次表层叶绿素浓度极大值层(Subsurface Chlorophyll Maximum Layer, SCML)中, 并伴随D_A极大值层的出现, 其原因可能是SCML中的大粒径浮游植物占比显著增加; 3)弱光层中的ξ值较SCML中的高, 但略低于表层的ξ值, 而D_A则位于表层与SCML的D_A之间, 这可能与浮游植物及其碎屑的絮凝、分解、沉降等过程相关。PSD特征影响着海水的固有光学特性, 分析发现: 由于SCML中的叶绿素浓度增加, 颗粒物散射系数(b_p(532))和颗粒物后向散射系数(b_bp(532))也相应呈现显著增加的趋势。弱光层中的平均b_p(532)与平均b_bp(532)最小。ξ与颗粒物衰减光谱斜率之间呈高分散性, Boss 等(2001b)的模型适合用于粗略估算区域性的ξ分布范围及均值。     

南海北部陆坡深水区浅层天然气藏特征

南海北部陆坡深水区的浅层天然气藏是一种伴随天然气水合物的新型油气藏, 具有埋藏浅、规模大的特点, 其埋藏深度一般小于300m。浅层天然气藏由深部裂解气沿断裂上升被天然气水合物封盖而形成, 识别似海底反射(BSR)是寻找浅层天然气藏有效方法。浅层天然气藏的气源主要有热解气、生物气和混合气, 陆坡张性断裂是气体运移的主要通道, 水合物下部的砂层是浅层天然气藏的主要储集层, 水合物层则是封盖层。从南海发现的天然气水合物分布特征看, 浅层天然气藏在陆坡深水区广泛分布且气藏厚度大, 潜在资源量非常可观, 是一种新型的开采成本相对低廉的油气藏。     

机载LiDAR地形特征信息快速提取

为更有效地获取地形特征信息,提出一种机载LiDAR地形特征信息快速提取算法。首先,通过构建二次曲面拟合模型,建立实测LiDAR地形数据与拟合曲面的几何规则;然后,采用LM算法迭代参数寻优,获得最优化结果下的地形拟合参数,计算拟合时间及拟合精度;最后,以地形拟合模型为基础,进行地形特征信息的快速提取。通过机载LiDAR实测数据验证,当最优搜索半径为2 m时,地形曲面的拟合时间仅为0.02 s,RMSE仅为5.09 cm。该算法保证了地形特征信息提取效率和精度,能够有效满足机载LiDAR科学研究和工程应用的技术需求。     

Biological structures as a source of habitat heterogeneity and biodiversity on the deep ocean margins

Biological structures exert a major influence on species diversity at both local and regional scales on deep continental margins. Some organisms use other species as substrates for attachment, shelter, feeding or parasitism, but there may also be mutual benefits from the association. Here, we highlight the structural attributes and biotic effects of the habitats that corals, sea pens, sponges and xenophyophores offer other organisms. The environmental setting of the biological structures influences their species composition. The importance of benthic species as substrates seems to increase with depth as the complexity of the surrounding geological substrate and food supply decline. There are marked differences in the degree of mutualistic relationships between habitat-forming taxa. This is especially evident for scleractinian corals, which have high numbers of facultative associates (commensals) and few obligate associates (mutualists), and gorgonians, with their few commensals and many obligate associates. Size, flexibility and architectural complexity of the habitat-forming organism are positively related to species diversity for both sessile and mobile species. This is mainly evident for commensal species sharing a facultative relationship with their host. Habitat complexity is enhanced by the architecture of biological structures, as well as by biological interactions. Colony morphology has a great influence on feeding efficiency for suspension feeders. Suspension feeding, habitat-forming organisms modify the environment to optimize their food uptake. This environmental advantage is also passed on to associated filter-feeding species. These effects are poorly understood but represent key points for understanding ecosystems and biodiversity on continental margins. In this paper we explore the contributions of organisms and the biotic structures they create (rather than physical modifications) to habitat heterogeneity and diversity on the deep continental margins.