Laboratory study of deep-water breaking waves

In an attempt to elucidate the mechanics of deep-water wave breaking, a variety of breaking waves, including spilling and plunging waves, of different length scales and geometries was studied. The waves were generated through wave-wave interactions using wave packets with constant-steepness components, constant-amplitude components, and also components following the Pierson-Moskowitz distribution. Wave steepening prior to breaking were found to cause an increase in the high frequency spectral slope of the wave spectrum. The slopes were correlated to the type of breaking and the intensity of the breaking. The energy loss through breaking varied with the spectral characteristics of the wave packet. On the other hand, it was also noted that, irrespective of the wave packet, the losses were from the higher frequency end of the first harmonics.     

磁铁石英岩型铁矿岩芯光谱编录研究

 对河北省昌黎县闫庄铁矿床的磁铁石英岩型铁矿石261件样品进行了光谱反射率测量，并与其铁含量进行了相关关系研究，目 的是对钻孔岩芯编录的新方法即高光谱岩芯编录在此类矿床中的可行性进行分析。研究结果表明，铁矿石反射率较低，一般为5%~20% ，铁离子的吸收峰主要表现在400~1 100 nm范围内，铁矿石中铁含量与850~900 nm的反射率均值呈现显著指数负相关关系，为高光谱 岩芯编录在此类矿床中的可行性提供了理论依据和技术途径。     

激变变星0623＋71的光谱研究

本文提出了激变变星０６２３十７１的４个时间分辨光谱，覆盖轨道周期的７３％．其中的３个谱清楚地显示了各种光谱特征随轨道运动的变化，在流量、能谱以及谱线轮廓方面的这种变化正是对一个倾角不太大的激变变星所期望的．然而另一个曝光对分钟的谱，流量和视向速度与预期的相比都太大，很难加以解释，可能它是一次象ＡＥＡｑｒ中观测到的跃发事件．     

风浪频谱中的特征量

在三参量风浪频谱的基础上对谱参量进行深入地研究,给出了谱参量与风场要素、波场要素的关系,提供了依据风场要素、波场要素及实测波浪资料计算谱参量的方法。从而可以依据上述因素直接计算出三参量风浪频谱。此外还根据谱宽度的变化,描述了风浪频谱的成长方式,解释了传统的波陡、波龄关系中经验常数的不同选取所代表的物理背景。     

西太平洋暖池区热带波动的天气效应

为了探讨西太平洋暧地区热带波动的天气效应，利用1980年2－9月140°E日本静止卫星纬度时间剖面卫星云图，分析了5d和14d左右周期热带波动云的演变特征，井综合分析了14d周期的云系演变型式与流场的关系，为预报热带中期天气变化规律提供了依据；热带波动中30－60d大气低频振荡的云量变化最显著，北半球夏半年热带波动的天气压主要在10°N－0°，各半年在10°N－10°S，超过这个区域热带云量的港分布型式就有明显的变化。     

Characteristics of breaking irregular wave forces on a monopile

The substructures of offshore wind turbines are subjected to extreme breaking irregular wave forces. The present study is focused on investigating breaking irregular wave forces on a monopile using a computational fluid dynamics (CFD) based numerical model. The breaking irregular wave forces on a monopile mounted on a slope are investigated with a numerical wave tank. The experimental and numerical irregular free surface elevations are compared in the frequency-domain for the different locations in the vicinity of the cylinder. A numerical analysis is performed for different wave steepness cases to understand the influence of wave steepness on the breaking irregular wave loads. The wave height transformation and energy level evolution during the wave shoaling and wave breaking processes is investigated. The higher-frequency components generated during the wave breaking process are observed to play a significant role in initiating the secondary force peaks. The free surface elevation skewness and spectral bandwidth during the wave transformation process are analysed and an investigation is performed to establish a correlation of these parameters with the breaking irregular wave forces. The role of the horizontal wave-induced water particle velocity at the free surface and free surface pressure in determining the breaking wave loads is highlighted. The higher-frequency components in the velocity and pressure spectrum are observed to be significant in influencing the secondary peaks in the breaking wave force spectrum.     

海城7．3级地震前地震波动力学特征量的异常变化

本文给出对海城７．３级地震前地震波动力学特征量变化的一些最新研究结果。所研究的地震波包括体波（Ｐ，Ｓ波）、尾波和短周期地脉动三类。特征量有：体波与地脉动的波形时间线性度和空间线性度，平均半周期，频谱的峰值频率、拐角频率、相对频带宽度、相对频谱峰值、高频段的谱线斜率绝对值；尾波的时间熵、振幅比、持续时间、观测与计算持续时间差及其二阶差分、Ｑ＿ｃ值、反映介质混浊度与震源特性的系数ａ＿ｃ等。所得结果表明，三类地震波的上述动力学特征量大都在震前一至半年左右出现、有的在６－１０天乃至一天以内出现过不同形态的阶段性异常变化，因而可看作海城地震的中短期和临震的地震波前兆异常指标。     

云南省降水与赤道西太平洋海温的关系分析

应用谱分析方法，讨论了云南省降水与赤道西太平洋海表温度的关系，结果表明，云南省降水与赤道西太平洋海温在３个月，５个月及１８．４月的振动周期上有很好的耦合关系，对于１８．４个月的周期性振荡，云南省降水落后赤道西太平洋海温３个月，且降水对海温的响应是由西向东传播。     

Wave interaction with a submarine pipeline in clayey soil due to random waves

The wave pressure and uplift force due to random waves on a submarine pipeline (resting on bed, partially buried and fully buried) in clayey soil are measured. The influence of various parameters viz., wave period, wave height, water depth, burial depth and consistency index of the soil on wave pressures around and uplift force on the submarine pipeline was investigated. The wave pressures were measured at three locations around the submarine pipeline (each at 120° to the adjacent one). It is found that the wave pressure and uplift force spectrum at high consistency index of the soil is smaller compared to that of low consistency index. Just burying the pipeline (e/D=1.0) in clayey soil reduces the uplift force to less than 60% of the force experienced by a pipeline resting on the seabed (e/D=0.0) for I_c=0.33.     

Statistics of wave forces on large horizontal cylinders

To the first order in a Stokes expansion, the pressure force exerted by a sea state on a large horizontal cylinder represents a stationary random Gaussian process. A relationship is obtained between the spectrum of this process and the wave spectrum. As a consequence, the basic statistical properties of the height and period of the individual waves of the force-process are also obtained. It is proven that these statistical properties agree very well with the data from a small scale field experiment.