黄海海浪天气时间尺度变化的数值模拟研究

利用第三代海浪数值模式(SWAN)系统研究了黄海海浪有效波高的天气时间尺度变化的时空分布特征和相关动力学过程。结果表明黄海海浪有效波高的天气变化强度(S_W)具有显著的时间变化特征和空间分布特征。其多年平均值在黄海的中东部存在由南向北延伸的高值区,同时向两侧近海区域逐渐减小。S_W在冬季最大,夏季最小。从11月到翌年5月,S_W月气候态平均值的空间分布与其年平均值的空间分布类似;从6月到同年10月,S_W的月气候态平均值在黄海与东海的分界处存在较强的由黄海到东海的空间梯度。进一步分析表明黄海海域的S_W以风浪占主,涌浪的贡献远小于风浪贡献。数值实验表明,黄海海浪有效波高的天气时间尺度变化主要是由大于天气变化周期的海面风强迫通过四波非线性相互作用产生的。     

Numerical study of three-dimensional suspended sediment transport in waves and currents

In the present work, a three-dimensional suspended sediment model (SED) is built. A three-dimensional hydrodynamic model (COHERENS) and a third-generation wave model (SWAN) are fully coupled through accounting for mutual influences between wave and current in them. SED is combined with the coupled model built up above. Damping function of suspended sediment on turbulence is introduced into COHERENS. Then a coupled hydrodynamic–sediment model COHERENS-SED incorporating mutual influences between wave and current is obtained. COHERENS-SED is adopted to simulate three-dimensional suspended sediment transport of Yellow River Delta with wave–current co-existing. The simulated tidal current velocities and suspended sediment concentration match well with field measurement data. The simulated significant wave height and wave period for a case with current's effects can give better agreement with measurement data than a case without current's effects. Numerical simulation results of COHERENS-SED are demonstrated to be reasonable though being compared with previous studies and field measurements [Wang, H., Yang, Z.S., Li, R., Zhang, J., Chang, R., 2001. Numerical modeling of the seabed morphology of the subaqueous Yellow River Delta. International Journal of Sediment Research 16(4), 486–498; Wang, H., 2002. 3-dimensional numerical simulation on the suspended sediment transport from the Huanghe to the Sea. Ph.D. Thesis, Ocean University of China, pp. 12–14 (in Chinese)].     

Modelling analysis of the sensitivity of shoreline change to a wave farm

Change of shoreline wave climate caused by the installation of a wave farm is assessed using the SWAN wave model. The 30 MW-rated wave farm is called the ‘Wave Hub’ and will be located 20 km off the north coast of Cornwall, UK. Changes in significant wave height and mean wave period due to the presence of the Wave Hub are presented. The results suggest that the shoreline wave climate will be affected, although the magnitude of effects decreases linearly as wave energy transmitted increases. At probable wave energy transmission levels, the predicted change in shoreline wave climate is small.     

Numerical Study of Storm Surge Inundation in the Southwestern Hangzhou Bay Region During Typhoon Chan-Hom in 2015

Storm surge inundation is a major concern in marine hazard risk assessment during extreme weather conditions.In this study,a high-resolution coupled model(the ADVanced CIRCulation model+the Simulating WAves Nearshore model)was used to investigate the storm surge inundation in the southwestern Hangzhou Bay region during Typhoon Chan-hom in 2015.The simulated hydrodynamic processes(sea surface wave and storm tide)were validated with measured data from wave buoys and tide gauges,indicating that the overall performance of the model was satisfactory.The storm surge inundation in the coastal area was simulated for several idealized control experiments,including different wave effects(wave-enhanced wind stress,wave-enhanced bottom stress,and wave radiation stress).Dike overflowing cases with different dike heights and dike breaking cases with different dike breach lengths were considered in the simulation.The results highlight the necessity of incorporating wave effects in the accurate simulation of storm surge inundation.Dike height significantly influences the magnitude and phase of the maximum inundation area in the dike overflowing cases,and dike breach length is an important factor impacting the magnitude of the maximum inundation area in the dike breaking cases.This study may serve as a useful reference for accurate coastal inundation simulation and risk assessment.     

基于WRF-SWAN耦合模式的台风“威马逊”波浪场数值模拟

获取高分辨率的风场数据和气压场数据是精确模拟台风浪的基础,采用经验公式构建台风风场和气压场对海浪模式进行驱动,无法反映台风影响下海气动力过程,难以提供高精度的风场、气压场数据。本文基于中尺度大气模式WRF(Weather Research and Forecasting model)和第三代海浪模式SWAN(Simulating WAves Nearshore model),构建了南中国海地区大气—海浪实时双向耦合模式,针对超强台风"威马逊"进行数值模拟。将数值模拟结果与现场观测结果及卫星高度计观测结果进行对比验证,验证结果表明,本文建立的WRF-SWAN耦合模式在对台风"威马逊"影响下的南中国海台风浪的模拟中展现出较高的模拟精度,揭示了台风风场分布和台风浪分布在空间上的"右偏性"不对称分布特征及其形成机制。基于WRF和SWAN建立的大气-海浪实时双向耦合模式能够准确模拟台风动力过程以及台风浪的时空分布特征,可以推广用于南中国海地区台风浪的模拟分析。     

An ocean wind-wave climatology for the Southern Brazilian Shelf. Part II: Variability in space and time

Previously validated model results were used to characterize the wave climate over the Southern Brazilian Shelf (SBS). The low mean significant wave height over the western South Atlantic shelves was shown together with examples of cyclone-induced extreme wave fields and other typical wave conditions. The mean offshore spectra showed a bimodal shape with a predominance of S/SSW and ENE/E waves with distinctive interannual rising periods in wave energy density. Along-shelf wave energy gradients were seen near the coast with higher energy located off capes and coastal projections and energy minima between them. A considerable drop in wave energy suggests the 40 m depth as the mean wave base and consequently the lower limit of the SBS shoreface. The upper shoreface mean wave energy density varied abruptly along the shelf in response to differences in bottom declivities. The large and shallow shoreface was responsible for an intense refraction of the waves and hence very small angles of attack. Additionally, it was shown the sheltering effect caused by capes and coastal projections and a remarkable north/south energy asymmetry between them, caused by a windowing on the wave propagation to the shore. Altogether, it was possible to state that bottom friction plays a major role in wave differentiation along the SBS shoreface, thus suggesting that shelf morphology might indeed be more important to generate wave variability than the offshore wave variation itself.     

SWAN中定量降水估测和预报产品的检验与误差分析

采用2010—2011年5—9月河南省区域加密自动站雨量和全省6部新一代天气雷达资料,用点对点统计检验评分方法,分析SWAN系统中定量降水估测(QPE)和定量降水预报(QPF)产品在河南省短时强降水过程中的误差分布,并分别讨论二者在河南省区域与局地强降水过程中的差别及产生误差的直观原因。结果表明:1)SWAN中QPE和QPF均对小时雨量低于10 mm的降水有较好的估测和预报能力;QPE以豫西南和豫北效果最好,QPF在豫中地区预报能力更强。QPE估测较实况偏大;QPF对小时雨量低于20 mm的短时强降水预报略偏大,而对更强降水预报偏小,尤以豫西和豫南最明显。2)QPE和QPF均对区域性降水有更好的估测或预报能力。3)区域降水过程中,QPE对降水中心范围和位置估测较准确,估测值较实况偏大;QPF对强降水中心位置预报略有偏差,其中心强度较实况偏弱。     

滨海核电可能最大台风浪的推算

采用当前国际流行的第三代波浪模式SWAN探讨了滨海核电工程可能最大台风浪的计算,并分析了可能最大台风浪与相伴随的可能最大风暴潮成长规律.分析得可能最大台风浪通常滞后可能最大风暴潮增水峰值,推算得到的可能最大台风浪高于遮浪海洋站观测到的最大波高,为滨海核电工程可能最大台风浪的推算提供参考.     

用两种不同方法计算淀山湖风浪

对淀山湖进行了风场和风浪场的现场观测。分别利用规范公式和SWAN模型计算了湖区风浪场的波高,并将计算结果和现场观测值进行了比较,比较说明两种方法的计算结果存在比较明显的差别。可为今后的相关工作提供借鉴和参考,并可为淀山湖的进一步治理积累必要的工作基础。     

Evaluation of two WAM white capping parameterizations using parallel unstructured SWAN with application to the Northern Gulf of Mexico, USA

The performance of two well accepted formulations for white capping and wind input of third generation wave models, viz., WAM-3 and WAM-4, were investigated using parallel unstructured SWAN (PunSWAN). Several alternative formulations were also considered to evaluate the effects of higher order steepness and wave number terms in white capping formulations. Distinct model configurations were calibrated and validated against available in situ measurements from the Gulf of Mexico. The results showed that some of the in situ calibrated models outperform the saturation level calibrated models in reproducing the idealized wave growth curves. The simulation results also revealed that increasing the power of the steepness term can enhance the accuracy of significant wave height (H_s), at the expense of a higher bias for large waves. It also has negative effects on mean wave period (T_a) and peak wave period (T_p). It is also demonstrated that the use of the quadratic wave number term in the WAM-3 formulation, instead of the existing linear term, ameliorates the T_a underestimation; however, it results in the model being unable to reach any saturation level. In addition, unlike H_s and T_p, it has been shown that T_a is sensitive to the use of the higher order WAM-4 formulation, and the bias is decreased over a wide range of wave periods. However, it also increases the scatter index (SI) of simulated T_a. It is concluded that the use of the WAM-4 wind input formulation in conjunction with the WAM-3 dissipation form, is the most successful case in reproducing idealized wave growth curves while avoiding T_a underestimation of WAM-3 and a potential spurious bimodal spectrum of WAM-4; consequently, this designates another perspective to improve the overall performance of third generation wave models.