A ten-year data set for fetch- and depth-limited wave growth

This paper presents the key results from a ten-year data set for Lake IJssel and Lake Sloten in The Netherlands, containing information on wind, storm surges and waves, supplemented with SWAN 40.51 wave model results. The wind speeds U₁₀, effective fetches x and water depths d for the data set ranged from 0–24 m s^− 1, 0.8–25 km and 1.2–6 m respectively. For locations with non-sloping bottoms, the range in non-dimensional fetch x? ( = gxU₁₀^− 2) was about 25–80,000, while the range in dimensionless depth d? ( = g d U₁₀^− 2) was about 0.03–1.7. Land–water wind speed differences were much smaller than the roughness differences would suggest. Part of this seems due to thermal stability effects, which even play a role during near-gale force winds. For storm surges, a spectral response analysis showed that Lake IJssel has several resonant peaks at time scales of order 1 h. As for the waves, wave steepnesses and dimensionless wave heights H? ( = gH_m0U₁₀^− 2) agreed reasonably well with parametric growth curves, although there is no single curve to which the present data fit best for all cases. For strongly depth-limited waves, the extreme values of d? (0.03) and H_m0 / d (0.44) at the 1.7 m deep Lake Sloten were very close to the extremes found in Lake George, Australia. For the 5 m deep Lake IJssel, values of H_m0 / d were higher than the depth-limited asymptotes of parametric wave growth curves. The wave model test cases of this study demonstrated that SWAN underestimates H_m0 for depth-limited waves and that spectral details (enhanced peak, secondary humps) were not well reproduced from H_m0 / d = 0.2–0.3 on. SWAN also underestimated the quick wave response (within 0.3–1 h) to sudden wind increases. For the remaining cases, the new [Van der Westhuysen, A.J., Zijlema, M., and Battjes, J.A., 2007. Nonlinear saturation-based whitecapping dissipation in SWAN for deep and shallow water, Coast. Eng., 54, 151–170] SWAN physics yielded better results than the standard physics of Komen, G.J., Hasselmann, S., Hasselmann, K., 1984. On the existence of a fully developed wind-sea spectrum. J. Phys. Oceanogr. 14, 1271–1285, except for persistent overestimations that were found for short fetches. The present data set contains many interesting cases for detailed model validation and for further studies into the evolution of wind waves in shallow lakes.     

0908号台风“莫拉克”影响期间福建西沙湾海域台风浪的数值模拟

联合SWAN模型和改进的椭圆型缓坡方程,结合考虑台湾海峡地形效应的改进藤田公式风场模型,建立了台湾海峡及近岸波浪场的数值嵌套模式.边界采用波谱离散驱动,模拟了0908号台风“莫拉克”期间台湾海峡波浪场的演变和崇武西沙湾浅水台风浪传播的物理过程.以实测数据进行单点验证表明,整个模拟过程风速的平均绝对误差为3.38 m/s,波高的平均绝对误差为0.30 m,计算结果较好地反映海峡内波浪对台风的响应过程.“莫拉克”台风登陆台湾岛时,台湾海峡有效波高最大值为5.0m;台风中心进入台湾海峡后,海峡东北部为巨浪到狂涛,有效波高最大值可达10.5 m.接近福建崇武沿岸时,偏E向台风浪向西沙湾内近岸传播,发生浅化、破碎、反射、绕射等变形现象,有效波高最大不足2 m,最小仅为0.2m,波向趋于SE向,波峰线则趋于与峡湾岸线平行;崇武闽台贸易码头附近,大部分波浪受到阻挡作用发生反射,少部分发生绕射,使得码头以北水域波浪较小,有效波高仅为0.2 ～0.6 m,对湾内避风坞起到较好的保护作用.     

南海北部一次台风浪过程的数值模拟

采用Holland 模型将2009 年6 号台风莫拉菲参数化, 并通过一个权重系数将模型风场和背景风场叠加起来, 构造了南海北部台风过境时的风场。随后通过时空插值, 将该风场以空间分辨率5′×5′、时间步长1 h 的精度输入到SWAN(Simulating Waves Nearshore)模式中, 模拟了莫拉菲台风通过时南海北部的海浪场。然后使用Jason-2 卫星波高数据对模式进行了验证, 结果表明模式结果与实测值吻合良好。利用模式结果我们分析了台风中心和海浪场的最大有效波高中心的位置关系, 以及台风风场结构和海浪场结构的关系。最后, 通过计算海浪场的能量并将其与风要素和浪要素对比, 我们研究了台风过境期间海浪场的动力机制。     

Influence of bathymetric fluctuations on coastal storm surge

Natural events constantly alter nearshore bathymetric properties. Hurricanes particularly affect bathymetry as they pass over a body of water. To compute an accurate forecast or recreate a hurricane's effects through hindcasting techniques, an operational bathymetry data set must be known in advance. However, obtaining and maintaining current and accurate bathymetric data can be costly and difficult to manage. In this paper we examine the extent to which variations in nearshore bathymetry affect the storm surge at the coast. A common question for wave and surge modeling is, “how good is the bathymetric data?” If we can allow for a range of fluctuations in the bathymetry without significantly adjusting the results of the surge predictions, we can potentially save months of field work and millions of dollars. A one-dimensional (1D) analytical solution for waves and water level is developed for initial testing. In the 1D case we find that as long as the amplitudes of the bathymetric fluctuations are less than 60% of the original depth, the surge at the coast is within ± 10% of the surge generated on the initial bottom slope. If the fluctuation produces a hole, a deepening of the local bathymetry, within 80% of the local water depth, the coastal storm surge calculated is still within 10% of the unperturbed value computed for bottom slopes shallower than 1:20. In addition, we find there is an optimum distance offshore for each sloped profile that corresponds to a depth between 25 and 40 m, beyond which the effects of bathymetric fluctuations begin to decrease. A coupled 2D modeling system is implemented to test our hypothesis along a realistic coastline. After selecting three study sites, we vary the bathymetry at the selected locations by ± 20%. Consistent with the 1D tests, the storm surge at the shoreline varies by less than 5%.     

Evaluation of Diffraction Predictability in Two Phase Averaged Wave Models

Two different methods for incorporating diffraction effect into wave action balance equation based coastal spectral wave models, WABED and SWAN, are discussed and evaluated with respect to their formulations, numerical implementations, and modeling capabilities. Both models were run to simulate the wave transformation through a gap between two infinitely long breakwaters and that across an elliptical shoal observed in laboratory studies, with the emphasis laid on the diffraction induced by either obstacles or wave amplitude variations. Calculations of WABED were compared with Som-merfeld's analytical solutions, experimental observations and SWAN simulations. It is shown that both methods can predict reasonably wave difiraction for the two cases studied herein, and a fairly better performance is provided by WABED for stronger difiraction case.     

近岸流对波浪传播影响的数值分析

使用近岸波浪模型SWAN计算存在沿岸流和离岸流时的近岸波浪传播。先设离岸流u=0m/s,模拟均匀、非均匀沿岸流的流速和梯度对波高传播的影响;再设沿岸流v=0.5m/s,模拟均匀、非均匀离岸流的流速和梯度对波能高传播的影响。从模拟中得到,近岸波浪传播受沿岸流、离岸流的流速和梯度影响时,波高的变化规律。     

台湾海峡及厦门湾台风浪场数值模拟

本文利用国际上先进的第三代海浪模式SWAN,在充分考虑风能量输入、白浪效应、水深诱导的波浪破碎、底摩擦、波-波间的非线性相互作用等物理过程。以0604号台风"碧利斯"为例,通过嵌套计算方式,模拟了台湾海峡及厦门湾台风浪场的分布特征。将数值模拟结果与浮标测站实测资料对比分析,结果表明台风浪高模拟值与实际台风资料相符较好,可以为该海域台风浪的模拟提供较好的参考。     

SWAN模型在设计波浪要素计算中的应用研究

采用SWAN(Simulating Waves Nearshore)模型搭建了覆盖整个台湾海峡和台湾岛东部部分海域的波浪模型,并利用此模型计算了常风浪场、崇武海洋站设计波浪要素和西沙湾海域极值波浪场.计算结果显示,在常风浪模拟中,4个浮标站计算值与实测值有效波高绝对误差均在0.20 m以内,平均绝对误差值为0.13 m...     

非结构网格模型在闽东沿海台风浪模拟中的应用

基于加密的非结构三角网格,以Holland模型风场叠加美国国家环境预报中心（NCEP）海面风场构造的合成风场驱动第三代浅水波浪数值模型（SWAN）对2017年影响闽东海域的“纳沙”和“泰利”台风过程进行数值模拟,并运用浮标站的实测数据对模拟结果进行验证.结果表明,模型计算的风速、有效波高与实测值符合较好,合成风场能较好地模拟台风期间的风速变化过程,SWAN模式能够合理地再现闽东沿海台风浪的时空分布特征.由模拟结果可见：台风“纳沙”中心越过台湾岛进入台湾海峡北部海面,受海峡地形的约束,其波浪场呈NE—SW向椭圆状分布,北部海域的浪高大于南部,闽东沿海遍布大范围的巨浪到狂浪;超强台风“泰利”未登陆闽东,当其台风中心与大陆的距离最近时,海面波浪场分布与台风风场结构一致,台风中心附近海域为14 m以上的怒涛区,巨浪遍布于闽东沿海.研究结果可为闽东沿海台风浪灾害预警和应急管理提供技术支撑和参考依据.     

Investigation of wave characteristics in a semi-enclosed bay based on SWAN model validated with buoys and ADP-observed currents

In this study, the simulating waves nearshore (SWAN) model with a locally refined curvilinear grid system was constructed to simulate waves in Jervis Bay and the neighbouring ocean of Australia, with the aim of examining the wave characteristics in an area with special topography and practical importance. This model was verified by field observations from buoys and acoustic Doppler profilers (ADPs). The model precisions were validated for both wind-generated waves and open-ocean swells. We present an approach with which to convert ADP-observed current data from near the bottom into the significant wave height. Our approach is deduced from the Fourier transform technique and the linear wave theory. The results illustrate that the location of the bay entrance is important because it allows the swells in the dominant direction to propagate into the bay despite the narrowness of the bay entrance. The wave period T p is also strongly related to the wave direction in the semi-enclosed bay. The Tp is great enough along the entire propagating direction from the bay entrance to the top of the bay, and the largest Tp appears along the north-west coast, which is the end tip of the swells’ propagation.