Wave run-up and overtopping on smooth and rough slopes of coastal structures

A series of hydraulic model tests has been carried out in a glass wave flume to investigate the influences of wave height, wave period, wave steepness, surf similarity parameter, roughness, layer thickness and porosity on wave run-up and overtopping of 1:2 sloped impermeable and permeable breakwaters fronted by a 1:10 gentle, smooth beach slope. The analysis of results involves the correlation between the overtopping energy transfer with the relative wall height and the relationship between wave run-up and overtopping rate. Further, measured wave run-up and overtopping rates are compared with the results given in the Shore Protection Manual (1984), Automated Coastal Engineering System (1992)and results of other investigators.     

A note on estimation of the Jacobian elliptic parameter in cnoidal wave theory

A new and simple calculating technique for the Jacobian elliptic parameter is presented in this study. The technique is very useful in generating a train of cnoidal waves in both laboratory and numerical wave tanks. Upon specification of water depth, the wave height and either the wave period or the wavelength, the proposed technique uses the Newton–Raphson method to estimate the Jacobian elliptic parameter directly, without trial and error procedures or look-up in tables. It is shown that the technique provides equally accurate results as the ad hoc methods previously used.     

斜带髭鲷幼鱼生长和生态转换效率的研究

在实验室内, 22. 5±0. 5℃条件下以去头去骨去鳞片去皮的金色小沙丁鱼的纯肉糜为饵料饲养斜带髭鲷幼鱼,测定体重范围在 4. 6~6. 5g的斜带髭鲷的体重、体长的生长曲线及其生态转换效率和特定生长率.实验结果表明,斜带髭鲷的体重、体长在实验期间直线增长,体重、体长的生长曲线分别为Wt(w.w.湿重,下同 ) =0. 391 7t 5. 766 2(R=0. 999 6)和Lt=0. 105t 6. 265(R=0. 989 9).用胃含物法测定斜带髭鲷的胃排空率、日摄食量、日生长量、生态转换效率和特定生长率.实验得到斜带髭鲷消化道的瞬时排空率Rt= 1. 23 4×10-3 (m/m) /h,日摄食量Cd= 1. 342 9g(w.w. ),生态转换效率Eg=29. 50% ±2. 77% [m/m(w.w. ) ],特定生长率SGR=4. 71%±0. 69% [m/m(w.w. ) ].     

基于GIS的柘林湾生态信息系统

柘林湾生态信息系统以ArcGIS为开发平台，采用客户端／服务器的体系结构，基于ArcObjects的组件式二次开发而成，实现了柘林湾的三维实景模拟、生态数学模型与GIS的有效集成、分析评价结果与地理空间数据相结合等功能，具有可视化、智能化、易扩展、安全实用等特点．该系统的建成．极大地提高了柘林湾生态信息的现代化管理水平，并为制定柘林湾的污染防治与生态环境保护策略提供了强有力的支持．     

机载雷达高度计对海况及海面风速的测量研究

运用我国自行研制的ＺＨＧ－１型Ｘ波段机载雷达高度计于１９９５年４月１３日－４月１８日在青岛附近海域进行的海上飞行实验数据，及导出的均方根波高、有效波高、均方根波陡算法模型，得到了上述海况参数值。     

JONSWAP谱和N谱的几个对应特征量间的关系

研究了风浪频谱ＪＯＮＳＷＡＰ谱的峰度因子γ、尖度因子Ｐｊ和Ｎ谱尖度因子ＰＮ，参变量ｐ，ｑ间的关系；并在此关系上给出了由这两种谱计算的几个对应参量间的关系，在使用不同的谱形进行特征量的计算时，应注意不同频谱间的成长因子致性，以免引起计算结果的错误。     

确定连续系统参数的时域方法

提出一种确定连续系统参数的时域方法。该方法利用方波输入和系统稳定性，离析出输出采样信号与结构参数的内在联系，推导出确定连续系统结构参数的算法．指出该算法与辨识方法相结合，可实现对含随机干扰的连续系统结构参数的估计．     

季节内SST和混合层深度变化的模式研究

用Niiler—Kraus类型的混合层积分模式,对TOGA—COARE强化观测期间由《实验3号》科学考察船观测资料得到的混合层深度和SST在季节内时间尺度的变化进行了模式研究。指出:1.混合层耗散参数与较长时间尺度过程风应力的变化存在着比较好的对应关系;2.模式可以较好的对风场和热通量场在季节内时间尺度的变化作出响应,模拟出季节内时间尺度SST的变化;3.Niiler,-Kraus模式在考虑耗散作用后,可用于海洋季节内时间尺度变化的模式研究。     

On the recovery of surface wave by pressure transfer function

Except the commonly selected pressure transfer function derived from the linear wave theory, a previous study on the pressure transfer function for recovering surface wave from underwater pressure transducer suggested that the pressure transfer function is a function of frequency parameter only. With careful analysis, this study showed that the pressure transfer function should include a transducer submergence parameter as that given by the linear theory. It was found that the previously suggested empirical formula should be restricted to measurements with the pressure transducer close to the surface; otherwise overestimation of wave height would result. Field measurements were carried out with an acoustic wave gauge and a synchronized pressure transducer located at various depths with submergence parameter close to 1 (near the sea floor). It was shown that the previous one-parameter empirical formula might overestimate the significant wave height by more than 30%. This study found that with deep-water wave bursts excluded, the transfer function based on the linear wave theory provided a fairly good estimation on the significant wave heights, with an average deviation of 3.6%.     

大亚湾海域重金属潜在生态危害评价

采用金属潜在生态危害系数和危害指数的评估方法，评价了大亚湾海域重金属对海洋生态系统的潜在危害。结果表明，大亚湾海域重金属潜在生态危害轻微，而养殖海区和近岸海区的重金属潜在生态危害则相对较重，大亚湾海域重金属的潜在生态危害较珠江口外浅海轻。