南太平洋辐合带(SPCZ)的特征分析

根据热带西太平洋卫星云图资料及流场特征分析,讨论了南太平洋辐合带(SPCZ)的演变特征和形成机理。提出SPCZ是反映西太暖池同东太冷舌海气耦合系统以及暖池大气同相邻陆区大气间相互作用的重要特征。主要表现为在12～2月的热带西太平洋上的NW/SE辐合带,其形成原因主要应归因于西太暖池本身,以及暖池与东太赤道冷水舌强度与相对位置改变引发的Walker环流位置与走向的变动,另外,新几内亚岛及澳洲大陆也有重要影响。     

非线性洋面温度反演

本文从辐射方程出发，简述洋面温度与亮度温度之间的非线性关系，进行非线性洋面温度反演的方案设计，用正演算法 计算出非线性洋面温度反演公式的回归系数，对样进行检验。     

Modelling of periodic wave transformation in the inner surf zone

In this paper, we analyse the ability of the nonlinear shallow-water (NSW) equations to predict wave distortion and energy dissipation of periodic broken waves in the inner surf zone. This analysis is based on the weak-solution theory for conservative equations. We derive a new one-way model, which applies to the transformation of non-reflective periodic broken waves on gently sloping beaches. This model can be useful to develop breaking-wave parameterizations (in particular broken-wave celerity expression) in both time-averaged wave models and time-dependent Boussinesq-type models. We also derive a new wave set-up equation which provides a simple and explicit relation between wave set-up and energy dissipation. Finally, we compare numerical simulations of both, the NSW model and the simplified one-way model, with spilling wave breaking experiments and we find a good agreement.     

周期浅析

本文分析了滑动平均的数据处理方法对周期分析结果产生的影响。提出了过程变量同号积分的数据处理方法,并对亚洲西风指数序列进行了试验分析。分析结果表明,周期的长短与振幅的大小有密切关系,亚洲逐日西风指数的周期振荡具有明显的季节特征。     

随机海浪的列率谱分析研究

首次将列率谱分析的方法引入到随机海浪的研究。根据不同环境条件下实验室资料，对列率谱与频率谱进行了比较。结果表明，列率频对频率谱高频部分有明显改善，特别对二倍频含能段的分辨具有明显的优越性。另外，列率谱具有计算速度快、简单易行、分辨率高等优点。     

基于子波分析的悬浮物散射信号特征提取实验研究

概述了应用子波分析对悬浮物测量中的声散射信号进行特征提取的方法 ,并对声散射信号识别的研究进行了探讨。对实测数据的实验取得了较好的结果     

Distribution of nonlinear wave crests

The distribution of nonlinear wave crests is examined on the basis of a theoretical probability density previously given elsewhere (J. Eng. Mech. 120 (1994) 1009). Certain errors contained in the original theoretical density are corrected, and the corresponding exceedance distribution is derived. The resulting theoretical forms of the probability density and exceedance distribution are then slightly simplified and compared with nonlinear wave data gathered under hurricane conditions. The results indicate that the proposed theoretical forms describe the observed distributions of large wave crests better than the Rayleigh law. However, the quantitative accuracy of the predictions is somewhat poor, as is typical of approximate theories based on Gram–Charlier-type expansions.     

东海温度锋的分布特征及其季节变异

根据１９３４－１９８８年东海水文观测资料，重点分析东海温度锋的分布特征及其季节变异，并结合近期中日黑潮合作调查研究成果，初步探讨温度锋季节变异和水团演变的关系，所得主要结论是：（１）东海不仅常年存在浙闽沿岸锋，东海北部陆架锋和黑潮锋，而且、春、夏两季，在东海南部还出现一条东海中部出架锋。（２）江海温度锋季节变化的特点是：冬季，锋的宽度和强度皆是表层最强，夏季，表层温度锋仅出现在浙江近岸小范围海域。     

Statistics of nonlinear wave crests and groups

Groups of large nonlinear waves with sharper higher crests can pose hazards to ships, induce harbor resonance and cause wave-overtopping of fixed and floating structures. Past interest in wave groups has mostly been focused on the statistics and modeling of linear wave groups. Studies on nonlinear wave groups are surprisingly few, and address deep water waves only. Here, statistics of nonlinear wave crests and wave-crest groups in deep and transitional water depths are considered, using an appropriate second-order representation for crest heights and the continuous wave-envelope approach. In particular, theoretical expressions describing the statistics of nonlinear wave crests and their groups are posed in the form of a simple second-order transformation of well-known results on linear waves. Predictions from the transformation so posed compare well with nonlinear wave data gathered in the North Sea, and demonstrate that nonlinearities do affect the statistics of large wave crests and their groups significantly.