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171.
Shigehisa Nakamura 《Marine Geodesy》2005,28(4):305-312
A note is presented on tsunami bore front. This tsunami bore front is an old dynamical problem but also a new problem to be understood. The tsunami event on 2004 December 26 has raised this is an urgent problem. The author introduces here a model in order to see a hydrodynamical specific property of the tsunami bore front. This modeling gives us a new understanding about what mechanics is for the interested tsunami bore front, especially, around a coastal zone. This work adds a new understanding about mechanics of water motions as the tsunamis generated by the earthquake undersea at a distant area from the coast. The model in this work points out a specific transitional pattern as a function of time and space of tsunami bore front. This modeling gives what is essential at considering tsunami bore front. 相似文献
172.
近岸海浪模式在中国东海台风浪模拟中的应用--数值模拟及物理过程研究 总被引:6,自引:2,他引:6
较为详细地介绍了基于能量平衡方程的第三代近岸海浪数值模式SWAN(Simulation Waves Nearshore)及其包含的物理过程(风生浪、底摩擦、白浪耗散、深度诱导波破碎、非线性波-波相作用等),并利用该模式对影响杭州湾-长江口沿岸海域的一次台风浪过程进行了模拟研究:模式所需风场由藤田台风风场模型嵌入对应台风特征等压线,并对相应时段的NCAR/NCEPT资料、单站资料进行同化后提供;利用自嵌套的方式提供波谱边界条件;模式模拟的结果与实际海浪观测资料相符较好,在此基础上,研究了底摩擦、深度诱导波破碎、三波相互作用等物理过程联合对近岸台风浪的影响,初步认识了它们在近岸台风浪生成、传播过程中的重要作用。 相似文献
173.
174.
为了探讨西太平洋暧地区热带波动的天气效应,利用1980年2-9月140°E日本静止卫星纬度时间剖面卫星云图,分析了5d和14d左右周期热带波动云的演变特征,井综合分析了14d周期的云系演变型式与流场的关系,为预报热带中期天气变化规律提供了依据;热带波动中30-60d大气低频振荡的云量变化最显著,北半球夏半年热带波动的天气压主要在10°N-0°,各半年在10°N-10°S,超过这个区域热带云量的港分布型式就有明显的变化。 相似文献
175.
本文研究了二层流体系统中波浪的衰减。上层为理想流体,下层为粘弹性Voigt体。导出了色散关系,计算了波浪衰减系数。对于粘性或弹性很大或很小的情况,导出了各种水深情况下近似的显式的衰减系数表示式。与精确的数值结果比较,近似程度很好。可供工程设计参考、使用。 相似文献
176.
From the phase-resolving improved Boussinesq equations (Beji and Nadaoka, Ocean Engineering 23 (1996) 691), a phase-averaged Boussinesq model for water waves is derived by more effectively describing carrier wave groups and accompanying long wave evolution with less CPU time. Linear shoaling characteristics of carrier wave equations are investigated and found to agree exactly with the analytical expression obtained from the constancy of energy flux for the improved Boussinesq equations themselves, showing that the present model equations are the results of a consistent derivation procedure regarding energy considerations. Numerical simulations of the derived equations for the single wave group and narrow-banded random waves show the validity of the present model and its high performance, especially on the CPU time. 相似文献
177.
Numerical simulations of gravity waves with high-order nonlinearities in two-dimensional domain are performed by using the pseudo spectral method. High-order nonlinearities more than third order excite apparently chaotic evolutions of the Fourier energy in deep water random waves. The high-order nonlinearities increase kurtosis, wave height distribution and Hmax/H1/3 in deep water and decrease these wave statistics in shallow water. Moreover, they can generate a single extreme high wave with an outstanding crest height in deep water. High-order nonlinearities (more than third order) can be regarded as one cause of freak waves in deep water. 相似文献
178.
A time-domain method is applied to simulate nonlinear wave diffraction around a surface piercing 3-D arbitrary body. The method involves the application of Taylor series expansions and the use of perturbation procedure to establish the corresponding boundary value problems with respect to a time-independent fluid domain. A boundary element method based on B-spline expansion is used to calculate the wave field at each time step, and the free surface boundary condition is satisfied to the second order of wave steepness by a numerical integration in time. An artificial damping layer is adopted on the free surface for the removal of wave reflection from the outer boundary. As an illustration, the method is used to compute the second-order wave forces and run-up on a surface-piercing circular cylinder. The present method is found to be accurate, computationally efficient, and numerically stable. 相似文献
179.
Experimental Investigation of Instantaneous Properties of Wave Slamming on the Plate 总被引:1,自引:0,他引:1
The purpose of this paper is to investigate the instantaneous properties of wave slamming on the plate structure of an open structure.The advanced instantaneous measuring technique-Particle Image Velocimetry(PIV) is applied to acquire the instantaneous velocity field of wave slamming.From the cross-correlation analysis results of the images captured by the CCD camera,the flow fields of wave impacting on the structure are displayed visually,and the instantaneous whole-field fluid velocity vectors are obtained.The relation between the instantaneous peak impacting pressures and the instantaneous velocities of water particles is studied by probability analysis. 相似文献
180.
Abstract. Four sites were sampled in kelp (Macrocysiis pyrifera) forests occupying rocky bottom habitats along a wave exposure gradient in central California. Consistent betwecn-site differences were found in the three major structural elements - the surface canopy, the undcrstory assemblage, and the ground cover/turf assemblage - of kelp forest communities. Macrocysiis pyrifera was found at all four sites. Nereucyslis tuelkeana only at the most exposed site. The understory kelps Laminaria setchellii and Pterygopltora californica were also characteristic of exposed sites. Articulated coralline algae were more abundant at exposed sites than protected, while fleshy red algae showed the opposite pattern. All four study sites were located along 8.5 km of coastline, and thus were assumed to have available to them the same species pool for colonization. The substrate composition was the same and the amount of unconsolidated substrate was similar at all four sites. We suggest that exposure to wave-generated water motion, through its influence on the surface canopy and therefore on the amount of light reaching the bottom, is responsible for these between-site differences. 相似文献