Large-scale dune erosion tests to study the influence of wave periods

Large-scale physical model tests were performed to quantify the effects of the wave period on dune erosion. Attention was focussed on 2D cross-shore effects in a situation with sandy dunes and extreme water levels and wave conditions. Besides profile measurements, detailed measurements in time and space of water pressure, flow velocities and sediment concentrations were performed in the near near-shore area. It was concluded that a longer wave period leads to a larger dune erosion volume and to a larger landward retreat of the dune face. Tests with double-peaked wave spectra showed that the influence of the spectral shape on dune erosion was best represented by the T_m − 1,0 spectral mean wave period, better than the peak wave period, T_p. The effect of the wave period on dune erosion was implemented in a dune erosion prediction method that estimates erosion volumes during normative storm conditions for the Dutch coast. More details of the measurements and additional analyses of physical processes are described in an accompanying paper by Van Thiel de Vries et al. [Van Thiel de Vries, J.S.M., van Gent, M.R.A., Reniers, A.J.H.M. and Walstra, D.J.R., submitted for publication. Analysis of dune erosion processes in large scale flume experiments, In this volume of Coastal Engineering.].     

废弃的黄河三角洲的地形特征及演化

根据2005年开展的海底地形调查资料并结合前人资料,对废弃的黄河口三角洲海区的海底地形特征及演化进行了分析。通过分析表明,近20年来,本区海岸处于侵蚀状态,蚀退速率约在50～80 m/a之间,海底地形处于冲涮状态,5m和10m等深线向岸方向移动600～900 m左右。     

Rossby waves with linear topography in barotropic fluids

Rossby waves are the most important waves in the atmosphere and ocean, and are parts of a large-scale system in fluid. The theory and observation show that, they satisfy quasi-geostrophic and quasi-static equilibrium approximations. In this paper, solitary Rossby waves induced by linear topography in barotropic fluids with a shear flow are studied. In order to simplify the problem, the topography is taken as a linear function of latitude variable y, then employing a weakly nonlinear method and a perturbation method, a KdV （Korteweg-de Vries） equation describing evolution of the amplitude of solitary Rossby waves induced by linear topography is derived. The results show that the variation of linear topography can induce the solitary Rossby waves in barotropic fluids with a shear flow, and extend the classical geophysical theory of fluid dynamics.     

弱地形上内潮生成问题——Ⅱ.粗糙地形情况下水深对内潮能通量的影响

前人在讨论水深对内潮能通量影响的时候得出结论:有限深海洋中海面对内潮的反射使得正压潮向内潮的能量转化相比较无限深海的情况显著降低,对于选定的地形,在无限深海假定下得到的能通量是该地形上内潮能通量的上限。鉴于前人所研究的基本上都是平滑的地形,而实际的海洋地形总是比较粗糙的,本文探讨了粗糙地形上内潮能通量随水深的变化。选取了弦函数地形、随机白噪声地形、弦函数地形叠加在高斯地形之上、随机白噪声地形叠加在高斯地形之上和随机白噪声地形与弦函数地形同时叠加在高斯地形之上5种情况进行了研究,发现对于这5种情况,都存在海洋有限深时的能通量大于无限深假定时的能通量,这说明前人得出的"有限深海洋中海面对内潮的反射使得正压潮向内潮的能量转化相比较无限深海的情况显著降低"的结论对于粗糙地形并不适用。     

1013号台风“鲇鱼”风暴潮特点分析

1013号超强台风“鲇鱼”在福建漳浦县登陆.登陆时逢农历九月十六的天文高潮,给闽南沿海地区造成了较大的灾害.本文从台风路径特点及灾害、天气形势、与历史相似台风(9914号)对比、数值模拟等方面对此次台风引起的风暴潮过程进行分析得出:进行历史台风相似分析时,除了台风本身路径、强度、移速等参数之外,还要注意分析台风的季节时间,天气形势,登陆地点,这些都会造成台风增水的明显不同;台风登陆后,受地形和降水影响,有时增水也会持续增大几小时.     

地形与热源强迫下的南方涛动

用El Nino和La Nina位相时的海温异常和地形作为大气下垫面的异常强迫,引入IAP的两层原始方程大气环流模式,模拟出了南方涛动的典型结构.当去掉地形后,仅仅由海温异常也能模拟出太平洋东西部的气压异常振荡,但太平洋东部振荡中心的位置并不与观测的一致.由此可见,观测到的南方涛动是在实际地形下对全球海温异常的响应.     

DGPS在广西沿海海底地形测绘中的应用

DGPS（DifferentialGlobalPositioningSystem）测量技术即差分定位技术,包括实时差分和后处理差分定位技术,正在远海和近海测量中得到广泛应用。后处理差分定位与微波定位及GPS实时差分定位相比,具有作用距离远,不受基准台与船台之问的障碍物影响以及减少基准台等优点。对于近海大比例尺（大于1：1万）测量,可采用实时差分定位的方法,而小于1：1万中小比例尺海底地形图测绘及海上其他工程测量,采用后处理差分定位,既能满足精度要求,又能提高工作效率。本文主要介绍利用DGPS后处理定位方法,在测绘广西沿海1：5万海底地形图中的应用情况。     

厦门岛东海岸的蚀退与防护

根据波浪输沙和地形对比，对厦门岛东部海岸的岸滩侵蚀动态及演变趋势进行探讨，并根据其海岸特点提出相应的防护对策。     

海坛岛海岸风沙特征及其发育

论述了海坛岛海岸风沙堆积物的沉积特征，对风沙地貌的基本类型进行了划分，分析其发育的基本条件和触发因素，研究其发育历史。     

基于MapObject的规则格网DEM显示及其应用研究

主要研究了基于MapObject的规则格网DEM的显示以及其应用。提出了一种将国家标准交换格式的DEM模型数据转换为Shape格式的空间数据的方法,并且用VB．NET语言结合MapObject可视化组件实现了对佛山地形的数字地形分析。该方法不需要大型的专业地理信息软件作支持,直接从底层开发,灵活性高,成本低,比较适合面向特定用户小型地理信息系统,为地理信息系统软件开发人员提供一种新思路。