Features of Monsoon, Typhoon and Sea Waves in the Taiwan Strait

For Future cross-sea passage spanning the Taiwan Strait, no matter what kind of scheme is adopted, its design, construction, and administration are closely related to marine hydrological and meteorological environmental elements. In this article, based on a great number of observed data, analyses for wave, typhoon, and monsoon conditions in the Taiwan strait region are made and their distributional features and character values are given. Especially, the wave height and occurrence frequencies of disastrous waves are analyzed, and the values of design wave parameters (wave height and period with a given return period) are estimated to use for the reference of the scheme optimization and project preliminary program of cross-sea passage spanning the strait.     

Automated trinocular stereo imaging system for three-dimensional surface wave measurements

A novel automated trinocular stereo imaging system (ATSIS) is developed for non-intrusively measuring the temporal evolution of three-dimensional wave characteristics. The system consists of three progressive digital cameras to provide three independent stereo-pairs, i.e. left–right, left–center, and center–right, for accurately estimating depth of a scene. A third camera assists to resolve correspondence problems due to specular reflection on the water surface and provides additional constraints on image matching, dramatically reducing the chance of a mismatch. An oblique configuration for the trinocular system effectively increases spatial coverage, allowing observations of wave phenomena over a broad range of spatial scales. The height resolution is increased with the optical axes of the cameras pointed at an oblique angle with respect to vertical surface wave displacements. A new exterior calibration procedure is developed in this paper to determine the orientation of cameras in the field. Field experiments demonstrate that ATSIS can robustly measure hundreds of matched image points in seconds, allowing fast extraction of the temporal evolution of a three-dimensional surface wave field.     

Experimental and Numerical Study of Wave-Induced Long-Shore Currents on A Mild Slope Beach

1.Introduction Long shorecurrenthasbecomethesubjectofextensiveworldwideresearchformanyyears.The purposeofthestudyistounderstandandpredicttheprocessesofsedimenttransport,shorelineevolu tionandpollutanttransportinthenear shorezoneundertheactionofwaves.Goda(2001)regarded thesuspendedsedimentastheprincipalloadinsedimenttransportandtheeffectoflong shorecurrents wasemphasized.Theeffectofwavesonpollutanttransportwasstudiedbynumericalmodelandfield experiment(TaoandHan,2002;Rodriguezetal.,1995),andth…     

Numerical study of the storm-induced circulation on the Scotian Shelf during Hurricane Juan using a nested-grid ocean model

A nested-grid ocean circulation modelling system is used to assess the upper ocean response of the Scotian Shelf and adjacent slope to Hurricane Juan in September 2003. The nested-grid system consists of a fine-grid inner model covering the Scotian Shelf/slope and a coarse-grid outer model covering the northwest Atlantic Ocean. The model-calculated upper ocean response to Hurricane Juan is characterized by large divergent surface currents forced by the local wind forcing under the storm, and intense near-inertial currents in the wake of the storm. The sea surface temperature (SST) cooling produced by the model is biased to the right of the storm track and agrees well with a satellite-derived analysis. Over the deep water, off the Scotian Shelf, some of the near-inertial energy input by the storm is advected eastward by the Gulf Stream away from the storm track. The hurricane also generates shelf waves that propagate equatorward with the coastline on their right. In comparison with the outer model results, the inner model captures more meso-scale structures, greater SST cooling and stronger near-inertial currents in the study region.     

Influence of Energy Directional Spread on Wave Spectral Refraction

Pierson- Moskowitz Spectrum, JONSWAP Spectrum as well as Bretschneider- Mitsuyasu Spectrum are used in this paper for analyzing the influence of wave energy directional spread on refraction of wave spectrum due to both current and topography of sea bed. The author's calculation indicates that such kind influence on the characteristic value of wave height as well as the average direction of wave energy propagation can not be ignored.     

Hilbert transform and its application to modulation of capillary gravity waves

INTRODUCFIONlt is well known that the stability and interaction of nonlinear waves lead to modulations ofwavenumber and frequency, as well as arnplitude, with the frequency dePendent on bothwavenumber and arnplitude (Witham, l974; Philips, l98l ). These medulations are not justtheoretical curiossities but have important conSequences in oceanography and meteorology, aswell as naval architecture and ocean engineering (honguer-Higgins, l980).By means of Hilbert transfOrm technique, Melvill…     

二阶非线性随机海浪波面高度和波面垂直速度的联合分布

基于Longuet－Higgins提出的非线性随机海浪模型，在二阶近似下通过直接计算联合分布的各阶矩，导出了非线性海浪波面高度和波面垂直速度的联合分布。该分布为非正态，其形式为截断的级数，而非由累积矩母函数方法可能得到的渐近无穷级数。由于非线性的影响，波面高度与波面垂直速度不再相互独立。     

Analytical Study on Transmission and Reflection of Non-Linear Shallow Water Waves

The analytical study is made by using the method of matched asymptotic expansions on the transmission and reflection of solitary waves and cnoidal waves on two-dimensional floating bodies. The solutions give explicitly the variation pattern of the transmitted waves and the characteristics of the reflected waves, including the wave profile, amplitude, phase shift and evolution. The effects of the gap between the body and the sea bottom on the transmission and reflection of those waves are also discussed.     

Nonlinear progressive waves in water of finite depth — an analytic approximation

An analytical solution using homotopy analysis method is developed to describe the nonlinear progressive waves in water of finite depth. The velocity potential of the wave is expressed by Fourier series and the nonlinear free surface boundary conditions are satisfied by continuous mapping. Unlike the perturbation method, the present approach is not dependent on small parameters. Thus solutions are possible for steep waves. Furthermore, a significant improvement of the convergence rate and region is achieved by applying Homotopy-Padé Approximants. The calculated wave characteristics of the present solution agree well with previous numerical and experimental results.