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41.
A statistical model is developed to predict wave overtopping volume and rate of extreme waves on a fixed deck. The probability density function for the volume and rate of overtopping water are formulated based on the truncated Weibull distribution with the assumption of local sinusoidal profile for small amplitude waves. Sensitivity to the wave nonlinearity parameter and deck clearance is discussed. The statistical model is compared to laboratory data of the instantaneous free surface elevation measured in front of a fixed deck, and overtopping volume and overtopping rate measured at the leading edge of the deck. The statistical theory compared well with the measured exceedance probability seaward of the deck. The model prediction of the exceedance probability of deck overtopping gave qualitatively good agreement for large overtopping values. 相似文献
42.
本文探讨东海区近海强风预报模式,首先介绍建立预报模式的思路和步骤,及使用说明,为了验证强风预报模式和判别条件,用1986、1987上日本传真天气图进行试报,准确和基本准确度为91.1%,并给出了1989、1995年随船试验预报结果,准确和基本准确率为90%以上。 相似文献
43.
本文以南麂海洋站1983~1990年风、浪的实测资料为依据,建立了南麂海城春、夏、秋、冬季定常波风浪波高与风速的经验关系式。检验结果表明,曲线回归显著,计算值与实测值吻合良好。文中还对偏NNE向和偏SSW向计算波高随风速增大的快慢,同一方向在同一风速作用下计算波高的季节变化及其机理作了初浅的讨论。 相似文献
44.
45.
本文探讨西庄附近海域的波浪状况,分析由于人工挖沙影响,使得登州浅滩的防护作用发生变化,导致近岸波浪作用增强,造成海岸侵蚀.最后讨论设计波要素的确定,为防浪护坡工程提供必要的设计依据. 相似文献
46.
W.R. Geyer 《Estuarine, Coastal and Shelf Science》1997,44(6):713-722
Observations of two small estuaries in Cape Cod, U.S.A. indicate large variations in salinity structure that are forced by variations in along-estuary wind stress. During onshore winds, the estuarine circulation is reduced, and the along-estuary salinity gradient increases as freshwater accumulates. During offshore winds, the surface outflow is enhanced, freshwater is flushed out of the estuary, and the along-estuary salinity gradient becomes weak. Constrictions block the wind-induced flushing, resulting in strong salinity fronts across the constrictions. The residence time of one of the estuaries varies by more than a factor of three in response to variations in wind-induced flushing. The other estuary has little variation of flushing associated with winds, due to a constriction at the mouth that inhibits the wind-induced exchange. The strong influence of winds on the flushing of these estuaries is due in part to their shallow depths, which accentuates the influence of wind stress relative to the effects of the horizontal density gradient. In addition, the residence times of the estuaries are comparable to the time scale of wind forcing, allowing large changes in water properties during wind events. 相似文献
47.
48.
This paper presents a method to statistically predict the magnitude of impact pressure (including extreme values) produced by deep water waves breaking on a circular cylinder representing a column of an ocean structure. Breaking waves defined here are not those whose tops are blown off by the wind but those whose breaking is associated with steepness. The probability density function of wave period associated with breaking waves is derived for a specified wave spectrum, and then converted to the probability density function of impact pressure. Impacts caused by two different breaking conditions are considered; one is the impact associated with waves breaking in close proximity to the column, the other is an impact caused by waves approaching the column after they have broken. As an example of the application of the present method, numerical computations are carried out for a wave spectrum obtained from measured data in the North Atlantic. 相似文献
49.
Oleg Zaytsev Rafael Cervantes-Duarte Orzo Montante Artemio Gallegos-Garcia 《Journal of Oceanography》2003,59(4):489-502
High primary productivity on the Pacific coast of the Baja California Peninsula is usually related to coastal upwelling activity
that injects nutrients into the euphotic zone in response to prevailing longshore winds (from the northwest to north). The
upwelling process has maximum intensity from April to June, with the coastal upwelling index varying from 50 to 300 m3/s per 100 m of coastline. Along the entire coast of the peninsula, the upwelling intensity changes in accordance with local
wind conditions and bottom topography. Spatial variability can also be modulated by the influence of mesoscale meanders of
the California Current. We have identified the seasonal and synoptic variability of upwelling signatures on the Baja California
shelf, using averaged monthly and weekly sea surface temperature (SST) distributions obtained from remote sensing imagery
from the Advanced Very High Resolution Radiometer in the period from 1996 to 2001. Analysis of SST distribution and direct
experimental data on temperature and nutrient concentration shows that the areas with the coldest SST anomalies were closely
related to the bottom slope, shelf width, and coastline orientation relating to wind direction. We also assume that the nutrient
transport into the coastal lagoons may be forced by the coupling of coastal upwelling and tidal pumping of surface waters
into the lagoon system.
This revised version was published online in August 2006 with corrections to the Cover Date. 相似文献
50.
Modeling bed-load transport of coarse sediments in the Great Bay Estuary, New Hampshire 总被引:1,自引:0,他引:1
A. Bilgili M. R. Swift D. R. Lynch J. T. C. Ip 《Estuarine, Coastal and Shelf Science》2003,58(4):937-950
Current, sea level and bed-load transport are investigated in the Lower Piscataqua River section of the Great Bay Estuary, New Hampshire, USA—a well-mixed and geometrically complex system with low freshwater input, having main channel tidal currents ranging between 0.5 and 2 m s−1. Current and sea level forced by the M2M4M6 tides at the estuarine mouth are simulated by a vertically averaged, non-linear, time-stepping finite element model. The hydrodynamic model uses a fixed boundary computational domain and accounts for flooding–drying of tidal flats by making use of a groundwater component. Inertia terms are neglected in comparison with pressure gradient and bottom friction terms, which is consistent with the observed principal dynamic balance for this section of the system. The accuracy of hydrodynamic predictions in the study area is demonstrated by comparison with four tidal elevation stations and two cross-section averaged current measurements. Simulated current is then used to model bed-load transport in the vicinity of a rapidly growing shoal located in the main channel of the lower system. Consisting of coarse sand and gravel, the shoal must be dredged every five to eight years. Two approaches are taken—an Eulerian parametric method in which nodal bed-load flux vectors are averaged over the tidal cycle and a Lagrangian particle tracking approach in which a finite number of sediment particles are released and tracked. Both methods yield pathways and accumulations in agreement with the observed shoal formation and the long-term rate of sediment accumulation in the shoal area. 相似文献