Some statistical characteristics of large deepwater waves around the Korean Peninsula

The relationship between significant wave height and period, the variability of significant wave period, the spectral peak enhancement factor, and the directional spreading parameter of large deepwater waves around the Korean Peninsula have been investigated using various sources of wave measurement and hindcasting data. For very large waves comparable to design waves, it is recommended to use the average value of the empirical formulas proposed by Shore Protection Manual in 1977 and by Goda in 2003 for the relationship between significant wave height and period. The standard deviation of significant wave periods non-dimensionalized with respect to the mean value for a certain significant wave height varies between 0.04 and 0.21 with a typical value of 0.1 depending upon different regions and different ranges of significant wave heights. The probability density function of the peak enhancement factor is expressed as a lognormal distribution, with its mean value of 2.14, which is somewhat smaller than the value in the North Sea. For relatively large waves, the probability density function of the directional spreading parameter at peak frequency is also expressed as a lognormal distribution.     

A joint distribution of significant wave height and characteristic surf parameter

The paper provides a joint distribution of significant wave height and characteristic surf parameter. The characteristic surf parameter is given by the ratio between the slope of a beach or a structure and the square root of the characteristic wave steepness in deep water defined in terms of the significant wave height and the spectral peak period. The characteristic surf parameter is used to characterize surf zone processes and is relevant for e.g. wave run-up on beaches and coastal structures. The paper presents statistical properties of the wave parameters as well as an example of results corresponding to typical field conditions.     

Particle trajectories of nonlinear gravity waves in deep water

The paper presents a numerical method for calculating the particle trajectories of nonlinear gravity waves in deep water. Particle trajectories, mass-transport velocity and Lagrangian wave period can be accurately determined by the proposed method. The high success rate of the proposed method is examined by comparing the present results with those of (a) Longuet-Higgins, M.S., 1986, 1987. Eulerian and Lagrangian aspects of surface waves. Journal of Fluid Mechanics 173, 683-707 and (b) Lagrangian moments and mass transport in Stokes waves. Journal of Fluid Mechanics 179, 547-555. It is shown that the dimensionless mass-transport velocity can exceed 10% for large waves, and the Lagrangian wave period is much larger than the Eulerian wave period for large waves.     

末次冰期低纬度西太平洋硅藻席沉积与生态特征

硅藻在全球碳循环中发挥着重要的作用。"树荫种"硅藻在次表层水体中的勃发成席,并迅速埋藏成为硅藻席沉积,使人们逐渐意识到次表层生产在整个生产力及输出生产中起着重要作用。介绍了首次在低纬度西太平洋区域发现的硅藻席沉积的分布特征,硅藻席发现站位呈带状分布,大致呈北西-南东向展布,大部分散布在17.5°～20°N之间。采集到硅藻席沉积物的站位其水深在碳酸钙补偿深度(CCD)以下4837～6150m的深水区,多分布在较平坦的海底,且受风力和陆源物质输入影响相对较强的区域。该区域硅藻席的形成可能是由于末次冰期时该海区有大洋锋面的形成所致。该区域的成席硅藻Ethmodiscus rex(Wallich)Hendey为典型的"树荫种"硅藻,可以通过自身调节浮力的作用,在水体相对稳定的贫氧大洋中生存并勃发成席。末次冰期低纬度西太平洋硅藻席沉积的发生,可能使该区成为CO2的汇。     

Characteristics of developing waves as a function of atmospheric conditions,water properties,fetch and duration

For any specific wind speed, waves grow in period, height and length as a function of the wind duration and fetch until maximum values are reached, at which point the waves are considered to be fully developed. Although equations and nomograms exist to predict the parameters of developing waves for shorter fetch or duration conditions at different wind speeds, these either do not incorporate important variables such as the air and water temperature, or do not consider the combined effect of fetch and duration. Here, the wind conditions required for a fully developed sea are calculated from maximum wave heights as determined from the wind speed, together with a published growth law based on the friction velocity. This allows the parameters of developing waves to be estimated for any combination of wind velocity, fetch and duration, while also taking account of atmospheric conditions and water properties.     

2005/2006年度莱州湾东部的海冰灾害及其影响

莱州湾是水深较浅的半封闭海湾,与外海海水的交换缓慢,受黄河等十几条入海河流汇入的淡水影响使海水的盐度较低.受寒潮影响莱州湾内海冰灾害发生频繁.莱州湾的海冰灾害分5个冰情等级.在冬季气温偏高的年份,莱州湾内形成Ⅰ、Ⅱ级海冰,沿岸一般没有固定冰形成;一般年份形成Ⅲ级海冰,西岸和南岸冰情较严重,有固定冰形成;在冬季气温偏低的年份,形成Ⅳ级或Ⅴ级海冰,南岸、西岸的固定冰宽度较大,有时整个莱州湾海面都分布流冰.2005年末～2006年初在莱州湾东岸形成了一次较严重的海冰灾害,莱州市近海海湾扇贝养殖的经济损失达400万元以上.为减轻未来海冰灾害带来的损失提出了加强海冰灾害的监测和预报技术研究,严格管理近海养殖生产作业,莱州湾沿岸地方政府应制定<海冰灾害应急预案>,建设和完善海冰灾害应急防御体系等防御海冰灾害的对策.     

Distribution of the nonlinear random ocean wave period

Because of the intrinsic difficulty in determining distributions for wave periods, previous studies on wave period distribution models have not taken nonlinearity into account and have not performed well in terms of describing and statistically analyzing the probability density distribution of ocean waves. In this study, a statistical model of random waves is developed using Stokes wave theory of water wave dynamics. In addition, a new nonlinear probability distribution function for the wave period is presented with the parameters of spectral density width and nonlinear wave steepness, which is more reasonable as a physical mechanism. The magnitude of wave steepness determines the intensity of the nonlinear effect, while the spectral width only changes the energy distribution. The wave steepness is found to be an important parameter in terms of not only dynamics but also statistics. The value of wave steepness reflects the degree that the wave period distribution skews from the Cauchy distribution, and it also describes the variation in the distribution function, which resembles that of the wave surface elevation distribution and wave height distribution. We found that the distribution curves skew leftward and upward as the wave steepness increases. The wave period observations for the SZFII-1 buoy, made off the coast of Weihai (37°27.6′ N, 122°15.1′ E), China, are used to verify the new distribution. The coefficient of the correlation between the new distribution and the buoy data at different spectral widths (ν=0.3−0.5) is within the range of 0.968 6 to 0.991 7. In addition, the Longuet-Higgins (1975) and Sun (1988) distributions and the new distribution presented in this work are compared. The validations and comparisons indicate that the new nonlinear probability density distribution fits the buoy measurements better than the Longuet-Higgins and Sun distributions do. We believe that adoption of the new wave period distribution would improve traditional statistical wave theory.     

A preliminary research on the climatic records of lacustrine deposits of Qingtu Lake in the last 6000 years

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大地电场变化的频谱特征

处理了中国大陆地区嘉峪关、昌黎、崇明、蒙城、兴济、宝坻和阳原等7个台的地电场观测数据,应用最大熵谱方法研究了大地电场日变化、地电暴等谱成分的特征. 结果表明,大地电场日变化主要是12 h的半日波成分最强, 24~25 h的全日波和8 h周期成分次之; 地电暴是在大尺度空间同步发生的,其谱值高于日变化谱值约2～3个数量级,主要以较长周期成分为主. 这一结果初步解释了大地电场变化的主要谱成分的生成机制.      

The spectroscopic period of the Cepheid SU Cassiopeiae

The spectroscopic period of the short periodic Cepheid SU Cas was determined from the radial velocity measurements by ABT, GIEREN and HÄUPL. The calculated period is 1.949312 days. Radial velocity differences between measurements by GIEREN and HÄUPL are explained as velocity zero point of the used spectrographs. The zero point of the Tautenburg Coudé spectrograph was determined by measuring the radial velocity standard star ϵ Leo. The difference to the standard value was -0.7 km/s. No significant differences are found between the spectroscopic period and light curve of SU Cas in the last 35 years.