湄洲湾泥沙活动及海底冲淤变化

湄洲湾沙源少,海水含沙量低,平均值10～20g/m~3。冬季受东北季风及浙闽沿岸流影响,湾口含沙量高,达到34g/m~3;夏季受径流影响,湾内含沙量相对偏高,达到16g/m~3。泥沙的运移趋势:主航道基本朝外,两侧朝里。受强潮流作用,深槽及水下潮流冲沟受到冲刷,斜坡及潮坪略有淤积。     

黄茅海河口湾现代动力地貌体系和冲淤过程分析

1980—1993年对黄茅海河口湾进行沉积物采样和水流测定及水深测量。根据水动力和地形条件，冲淤分析及Mclaren模型研究河口湾的动力地貌体系、冲淤特征和现代沉积物运移。结果表明：（1）水下地形主要为下泄流或上溯流控制的“深槽－槽沟－浅滩－湾口”的动力地貌体系，反映了河口湾“东进西出”的水流格局；（2）整个河口湾以淤积为主，只有崖门深槽有较明显的优势冲刷特征，并随着崖门深槽向海推移和河口湾“东进西出”水动力作用，黄茅海落潮三角洲相应向西南进积；（3）应用Mclaren模型揭示了黄茅海河口湾现代沉积物运移规律，同样反映了河口湾具有“东进西出”的运移趋势。     

Summer distribution and geochemical composition of suspended-particulate matter in the east china sea

The distribution and geochemical composition of suspended-particulate matter (SPM) in the East China Sea (ECS) were investigated during the summer period of high continental runoff to elucidate SPM sources, distribution and cross-shelf transport. The spatial variability of SPM distribution (0.3–6.5 mg l⁻¹) and geochemical composition (POC, Al, Si, Fe, Mn, Ca, Mg and K) in the ECS was pronounced during summer when the continental fluxes of freshwater and terrestrial materials were highest during the year. Under the influences of Changjiang runoff, Kuroshio intrusion, surface production and bottom resuspension, the distribution generally showed strong gradients decreasing seaward for both biogenic and lithogenic materials. Particulate organic carbon was enriched in surface water (mean ∼18%) due to the influence of biological productivity, and was diluted by resuspended and/or laterally-transported materials in bottom water (mean 9.4%). The abundance of lithogenic elements (Al, Si, Fe, Mn) increased toward the bottom, and the distribution correlations were highly significant. Particulate CaCO₃ distribution provided evidence that the SPM of the bottom water in the northern part of the study area was likely mixed with sediments originally derived from Huanghe. A distinct benthic nepheloid layer (BNL) was present in all seaward transects of the ECS shelf. Sediment resuspension may be caused by tidal fluctuation and other forcing and be regarded as the principal agent in the formation of BNL. This BNL was likely responsible for the transport of biogenic and lithogenic particles across or along the ECS shelf. Total inventories of SPM, POC and PN are 46, 2.8 and 0.4 Tg, respectively, measured over the total area of 0.45 × 10⁶ km² of the ECS shelf. Their mean residence times are about 27, 13 and 11 days, respectively. The inventory of SPM in the water column was higher in the northernmost and southernmost transects and lower in the middle transects, reflecting the influences of terrestrial inputs from Changjiang and/or resuspended materials from Huanghe deposits in the north and perhaps from Minjiang and/or Taiwan’s rivers in the south. The distribution and transport patterns of SPM and geochemical elements strongly indicate that continental sources and cross-shelf transport modulate ECS particulate matter in summer.     

Variations of the Kuroshio Axis South of Kyushu in Relation to the Large Meander of the Kuroshio

The characteristics of the Kuroshio axis south of Kyushu, which meanders almost sinusoidally, are clarified in relation to the large meander of the Kuroshio by analyzing water temperature data during 1961–95 and sea level during 1984–95. The shape of the Kuroshio axis south of Kyushu is classified into three categories of small, medium, and large amplitude of meander. The small amplitude category occupies more than a half of the large-meander (LM) period, while the medium amplitude category takes up more than a half of the non-large-meander (NLM) period. Therefore, the amplitude and, in turn, the curvature of the Kuroshio axis is smaller on average during the LM period than the NLM period. The mean Kuroshio axis during the LM period is located farther north at every longitude south of Kyushu than during the NLM period, with a slight difference west of the Tokara Islands and a large difference to the east. A northward shift of the Kuroshio axis in particular east of the Tokara Islands induces small amplitude and curvature of the meandering shape during the LM period. During the NLM period, the meandering shape and position south of Kyushu change little with Kuroshio volume transport. In the LM formation stage, the variation of the Kuroshio axis is small west of the Tokara Islands but large to the east due to a small meander of the Kuroshio. In the LM decay stage, the Kuroshio meanders greatly south of Kyushu and is located stably near the coast southeast of Kyushu. This revised version was published online in July 2006 with corrections to the Cover Date.     

Simulation of Pollutant Transport in Marmaris Bay

The circulation pattern and the pollutant transport in the Marmaris Bay are simulated by the developed three-dimensional baroclinic model. The Marmaris Bay is located at the Mediterranean Sea coast of Turkey. Since the sp ring tidal range is typically 20- 30 cm, the dominant forcing for the circulation and water exchange is due to the wind action. In the Marmaris Bay, there is sea outfall discharging directly into the bay. and that threats the bay water quality significantly. The current patterns in the vicinity of the outfall have been observed by tracking drogues which are moved by currents at different water depths. In the simulations of pollutant transport, the coliforms-counts is used as the tracer. The model provides realistic predictions for the circulation and pollutant transport in the Marmaris Bay. The transport model component predictions well agree with the results of a laboratory model study.     

Short-term shoreline changes due to cross-shore structures: a one-line numerical model

The proposed numerical model simulates the short-term temporal changes in shoreline position due to a structure interrupting the longshore sediment flux. The impacts of both the groin-type construction and underwater trench of arbitrary orientation relative to the shore are discussed. In order to estimate the sediment mass trapped by the structure, a submodel of the longshore sediment transport induced by a random wave field is developed. The contribution of the surface roller in momentum balance as well as in sediment suspension is included. The shoreline changes are computed from the equation deduced from the mass conservation. The perturbations in the longshore sediment discharge caused by a structure are assumed to concentrate within some boundary area of which the spatial scale is proportional to the structure's length until the latter is exceeded by the width of the sediment flux. It is shown in particular that the total effect of a long trench (channel) and a pier in its nearshore part results in general shoreline recession except for the vicinity of a pier. The model is tested against the laboratory data of Baidei et al. (1994) and applied to the Baidara Bay coast (Kara Sea) where a pipeline would be designed.     

九州西侧海域129°E断面的流速和温盐结构特征

根据中、日合作黑潮调查研究期间（1987－1993年）在九州西侧海域获得的水文资料，计算了129°E断面的地转流速和流量。着重提出129°E断面北侧存在一支较稳定的西向流；分析这支西向流的去向，指出它是向对马暖流输送黑潮水的重要途径；给出了这支西向流及黑潮通过该断面的流速、流轴、流幅及流量的变化特征。     

Cross-shelf distribution of copepods and the role of event-scale winds in a northern California upwelling zone

Cross-shelf distribution and abundance of copepod nauplii and copepodids were measured during three summer upwelling seasons (2000–2002) in a coastal upwelling zone off northern California. These 3 years varied considerably in the intensity of winds, abundance of chlorophyll, and water temperature. The cruises in 2000 were characterized by relaxation conditions, with generally high levels of chlorophyll and high water temperature. The cruises in 2001 and 2002 were dominated by strong and persistent upwelling events, leading to lower chlorophyll and water temperatures. The copepod assemblage was dominated by Oithona spp., Acartia spp. and Pseudocalanus spp., with Metridia pacifica (lucens), Microsetella rosea, Oncaea spp. and Tortanus discaudatus also common during all 3 years. The cross-shelf distribution of copepods was generally shifted offshore during upwelling and onshore during relaxation events, although some variability between species occurred. Abundance of all life stages generally exhibited a negative correlation with cross-shelf transport averaged over at least 1–4 days and lagged by 0–3 days, indicating lower abundances during and immediately after active upwelling. However, copepod nauplii seemed to respond positively to wind events lasting 1–5 days followed by a period of relaxation lasting 6 or 7 days. These rapid rates of change in abundance are probably too great to be due to in situ growth and reproduction alone; physical processes must also play a role. These results suggest a highly dynamic relationship between copepods and upwelling events off northern California, with species-specific responses to upwelling to be expected.     

A phase-resolving cross shore sediment transport model for beach profile evolution

A phase-resolving wave transformation module is combined with an intra-wave sediment transport module to calculate the on-/offshore sediment transport rates. The wave module is based on the Boussinesq equations extended into the surf zone. The vertical variation of the mean undertow and the intra-wave sediment concentrations are calculated. The net sediment transport rates are calculated, and the equation for conservation of sediment is solved to predict the beach profile evolution. The results of the present paper showed that the undertow contribution to the sediment transport rates is not dominating in all parts of the surf zone, even for eroding beaches, suggesting that other contributions should not be neglected. The present model also showed that for the same offshore wave energy the time series of the oscillatory motion is important and that the effect of wave groups cannot be disregarded.