渤、黄海假潮的气象学成因

对渤、黄海14个主要海湾的原始验潮记录进行了分析，从中筛选出水位变化幅度大于或等于50cm的54个假潮个例，着重分析了伴随假潮过程的天气形势，把可能引发假潮的天气形势归纳为4种基本类型。分析结果显示：绝大多数（92％）引发假潮的天气个例都与锋面活动有关；所有个例中低层大气基本上都是弱静力稳定，且都具有较强的垂直风速切变。根据观测事实和稳定度理论分析认为，低层大气的弱静力稳定层结构以及由垂直风速切变引起的剪切不稳定性，是假潮气象学成因的一种必要条件和物理机制。     

近年来三亚湾海洋生态与生物资源研究动态

简要介绍了中国科学院海南热带海洋生物实验站近年来对三亚湾开展热带海域生态环境与资源调查研究的情况，特别是该站于1999年被确定为国家重点试验站以后，对三亚湾海域营养盐结构、生物固氮作用和沉积物-海水界面间磷形态分布的调查结果。     

关于波浪Boussinesq方程的研究

对有关波浪 Boussinesq方程的研究成果进行了系统的归纳总结和评述 ,以期对本学科的发展起到一定的引导和促进作用     

南海罗斯贝变形半径的地理及季节变化

根据南海 1°× 1°网格的标准层季节平均温、盐度资料 ,在未引入Boussinesq近似条件下 ,采用改进的Thompson Haskell算法求解线性化斜压海洋水平大尺度波的垂直结构方程 (重力内波方程 ) ,从而得到了南海各网格点的第一斜压重力波相速度和相应的罗斯贝变形半径 ,并探讨其地理分布和季节变化特征 ,以期有助于南海环流和中尺度涡旋以及有关海洋侧边界效应的研究。     

考虑非线性弥散影响的波浪变形数学模型

提出了逼近Kirby和Dalrymple的非线性弥散关系的显式非线性弥散关系的表达式,该显式表达式与他们的非线性弥散关系的精度几乎完全相同.采用显式非线性弥散关系,结合含弱非线性效应的缓坡方程,得到考虑非线性弥散影响的波浪变形数学模型,并对该数学模型进行了数值验证.结果表明,考虑非线性弥散影响的波浪变形数学模型更为精确.     

浅海桶形基础平台抗拔力与抗倾稳定分析

平台在海上受风、浪、流、冰等水平载荷作用产生倾斜，而土壤粘接力、摩擦力和土抗力是平台的抗拔和抗倾力，桶基平台应满足抗拔、抗倾稳定的要求，以保证平台的整体稳定性。讨论了桶基平台受水平力作用时，桶形基础的破坏模式及其计算方法，阐述了抗倾稳定计算方法。     

《海洋测绘》编辑工作随想

不论哪一个行业或专业,出版一份杂志是很有必要的。1962~1967年,海军司令部航海保证部曾印发《海道测量通讯》,在有限的范围内起到了交流工作经验、了解国际测绘动态的作用。1981年,《海洋测绘》创刊以后,虽然也是内部刊物,但当时国家出版管理要求不是很严格,而测绘界学术气氛浓厚,在国内测绘、交通、导航等部门有需求,就应邀广为分发。2001年,经批准正式创办。从期刊的创刊到现在20多年中,通过写稿、改稿或编辑出版工作,没有中断过同《海洋测绘》的联系,与刊物、与作者读者都有了深厚感情。因此,作为编者,说《海洋测绘》是良师益友,倒不如…     

A General Linear Wave Theory for Water Waves Propagating over Uneven Porous Bottoms

Starting from the widespread phenomena of porous bottoms in the near shore region, considering fully the diversity of bottom topography and wave number variation, and including the effect of evanescent modes, a general linear wave theory for water waves propagating over uneven porous bottoms in the near shore region is established by use of Green‘s scond identity. This theory can be reduced to a number of the most typical mild-slope equations curreutly in use and provide a reliable research basis for follow-up development of nonlinear water wave theory involving porous bottoms.     

Mach Effect of Oblique Nonlinear Irregular Waves Interacting with Vertical Walls

Based on Hong‘s theory, previous random models, and a generalized expression suitable for FIT calculation, the interaction between irregular waves and vertical walls is numerically simulated. The results of simulation demonstrate that the wave energy changes with the incidence angle and the distance from the wall. Particularly, the Mach effect and the combined wave spectrum characteristics are analyzed in detail, which are significant in both theory and practice.     

Probabilistic Models for the Probability of Wave Breaking and Whitecap Coverage Based on Kinematic Breaking Criterion

More and more researches show that neither the critical downward acceleration nor the critical slope of water waves is a universal constant. On the contrary, they vary with particular wave conditions. This fact moders the models either for the probability of wave breaking B or for the whitecap coverage W based on these criteria difficult to apply. In this paper and the one which follows we seek to develop models for the prediction of both B and W based on the kinematical criterion. First, several joint probabihstic distribution functions (PDFs) of wave characteristics are derived, based on which the breaking properties B and W are estimated. The estimation is made on the assumption that a wave breaks ff the horizontal velocity of water particles at its crest exceeds the local wave celerity, and whitecapping occurs in regions of fluid where water particles travel faster than the waves. The consequent B and W depend on wave spectral moments of orders 0 to 4.Then the JONSWAP spectrum is used to represent the fetch-limited sea waves in deep water, so as to relate the probahility of wave breaking and the whitecap coverage with wind parameters. To this end, the time-averaging technique proposed by Glazman (1986) is applied to the estimation of the spectral moments involved, and furthermore, the theoretical models are compared with available observations collected from published literature. From the comparison, the averaging time scale is determined. The final models show that the probability of wave breaking as well as the whitecap coverage depends on the dimensionless fetch. The agreement between these models and the database is reasonable.