Flow fields in reflected waves at a sloped sea wall

Wave run-up, and flow visualization experiments were conducted with a 1:2 sloped sea wall model. The visualization experiments gave an overview of flow fields in reflected, non-breaking conditions. Maximum particle velocities were found to be significantly smaller than suggested in the literature. Downrush produced a fast sheet flow, extending down to the toe of the sea wall. This created a ‘reverse’ breaker during the retreat of the initially non-breaking wave, which explains the high-energy dissipation rates for non-breaking waves reported in the literature. Embankments may therefore be exposed to wave impact pressures in areas up to 1.18H₀ below MWL.     

杭州湾乍浦断面潮流分布特征

根据2000年9月在杭州湾乍浦断面设置的8个潮流同步观测站的资料,对该断面潮流分布特征进行了分析和探讨,结果表明:该断面大潮涨急时呈现两个大流速核;断面南部的流速要比北部的大,涨潮流速大于落潮流速。这对了解杭州湾水文特征有着一定意义,同时为杭州湾跨海大桥的设计建设提供参考。     

Tidal fluxes of nutrients and suspended sediments at the North Inlet–Winyah Bay National Estuarine Research Reserve

Beginning June of 1993 suites of 13 water samples have been collected at Oyster Landing, North Inlet (SC), every 20 days covering two consecutive tidal cycles at 2.07 h intervals. In order to ascertain whether this large (and still growing) water chemistry data set can be used to determine tidal fluxes of nutrients and sediments, we coupled measured concentrations to estimates of instantaneous tidal discharge based on a basin water storage curve and hindcast tides. The mean advective fluxes of all constituents, including salt, showed statistically significant exports. This result, however, is largely due to an ebb bias in the sampling protocol, which resulted in 52% of the samples being collected on ebb tide versus a theoretical percentage of 48%. When this bias was corrected by reducing the mean discharge (−610 l s⁻¹) to a value (−125 l s⁻¹) that produced a balance between the mean advective and dispersive salt fluxes, the advective fluxes of the other constituents were reduced to values that are not significantly different from zero. In addition to a statistically significant dispersive influx of salt, significant dispersive exports were found for DON, NH₄, DOP, PO₄ and DOC. All particulate constituents (PN, PP, ISS and OSS) yielded dispersive fluxes that were not significantly different from zero. Annual material budgets for the Oyster Landing basin based on the dispersive fluxes of all constituents (except salt) are generally similar in magnitude and direction to those measured by [Dame, R.F., Spurrier, J.D., Williams, T.M., Kjerfve, B., Zingmark, R.G., Wolaver, T.G., Chrzanowski, T.H., McKeller, H.N., Vernberg, F.J., 1991. Annual material processing by a salt marsh-estuarine basin in South Carolina, USA. Marine Ecology Progress Series 72, 153–166.] in the nearby and ecologically similar Bly Creek basin, indicating that the dispersive fluxes determined in this study are realistic. We offer suggestions for improving the reliability and usefulness of future Oyster Landing water quality data.     

Isotopic and Elemental Variations of Carbon and Nitrogen in a Mangrove Estuary

Variations in elemental and isotopic ratios of suspended particulate matter (SPM) were investigated in the Guayas River Estuary Ecosystem (GREE) that empties into the Gulf of Guayaquil, Ecuador. Detritus in the system was identified on the basis of extremely high carbon:chlorophyll aratios (>1000). This material had mean δ¹³C of −26·4±0·3, δ¹⁵N of +4·8±0·2, and (C:N)_atomicof 14·1±0·9. The isotopic data were comparable to measurements reported for fresh and degrading mangrove leaves, whereas the elemental ratio was comparatively enriched in nitrogen. Isotope measurements of SPM throughout the GREE were more similar to values for riverine material and detritus compared with that for the coastal end-member. Values indicative ofin situproduced algae, sewage and shrimp pond effluent were only found at selected sites. Bacterial bioassays, which were used to document potential sources of dissolved organic matter in the GREE, were isotopically similar to SPM. This correspondence coupled with the relatively low (C:N)_aof SPM could be explained by bacterial immobolization of nitrogen onto detritus. Finally, tidal variations of (C:N)_aand δ¹³C at a brackish mangrove site were similar in magnitude to spatial variations encountered throughout the GREE. Based on these results, the authors caution that care must be taken when samples are taken for food-web studies in these systems.     

桩式离岸堤保滩促淤工程消浪效果试验研究

在上海奉贤南北港保滩促淤工程中，采用了一种新型结构型式－桩式离岸堤，并通过物理模式试验进行了桩式离岸堤消浪效果研究。针对离岸堤通常建于近岸水区破波带的特点，重点研究水深，堤高以及堤身结构对波浪衰减的影响，同时对桩式离岸堤堤后水域的波浪底流速 分析探讨。研究结果表明，桩式离岸堤不仅具有良好的消浪效果。而且可在较大范围内改变波态，即由引起水体剧烈紊动的破波转变为浅水推进波，从而有效地改善海滩上的动力条件，促进海滩免受侵蚀，是一种具有广泛应用前景和新型保滩促淤结构。     

雷州半岛灯楼角海岸地貌演变

灯楼角岬角位于雷州半岛的西南端,地处热带北缘.过去几次开展的区域地貌和第四纪地质调查及制图,均包括本区1),2),[1～2].宋朝景曾做过涉及本区海底的地貌与浅地层调查3),又指导学生研究本段海岸地貌4).近年赵焕庭等[3]开展该区珊瑚礁研究,使用了1960年版航空照片和1964年版1:10000地形图,结合野外调查,进一步研究了本区海岸地貌的演变.     

半封闭海湾潮间带部分围垦后纳潮量计算的商榷——以胶州湾为例

传统的海湾(泻湖)纳潮量计算方法不能精确地反映潮间带被部分围垦后纳潮量的实际情况,本考虑围堤的影响,将纳潮量分解为堤基以下的“梯形”区和堤基以上的“矩形”区两部分之和,在理论上更加严密。根据改进后方法算出的胶州湾近期纳潮量比传统方法算出的纳潮量大15％左右。可见,半个多世纪以来胶州湾的纳潮量只减少了约15％．而不是传统方法得出的约25％。     

福建深沪湾潮间带全新世有孔虫及其环境意义

本文对深沪湾西部潮间带表层沉积物和两个钻孔岩芯共30个样品的有孔虫组成进行了定性和定量分析。结果表明，表层沉积物中有孔虫群分布规律明显，随着离岸向海越远，水深越大，有孔虫娄量从1倍数上升到5位数，种数为9-69种，多变度V31-44，复合分异度H（s)3.25-3.25。从钻孔岩芯中的全新世有孔虫群特征可看出，中全新世以来海面升降和海洋环境可分为2个阶段：（1）海水初到钻孔位置，有孔虫数量和种数较少，分异度不高，海相性程度较低。（2）后期（埋深1.8m和2.0m以浅），海面有所升高，变为潮间带（高潮位→中潮位→低潮位）环境。     

龙口平均海平面变化原因的研究

本文通过对实测海平面高度的对比，发现龙口平均海平面从１９９１年起有明显的升高趋势。作者猜测此乃龙口在码头扩建后有系统下沉所致。     

江苏岸外条子泥二分水滩脊的沉积特征

2000年1月16日在江苏岸外条子泥沙洲二分水滩脊选取三条断面，进行底质沉积物采样及滩面高程测量。共采集样品27个，对其用激光粒度仪进行粒度分析，发现沉积物的粒度参数、粒度组分及其分布均具有一定的变化规律，且与滩面高程变化具有很好的相关性。