Examination of empirical formulas for wave shoaling and breaking on steep slopes

Estimation of the wave height transformation of shoaling and breaking is essential for the nearshore hydrodynamics and the design of coastal structures. Many empirical formulas have been well recognized to the wave height transformation, but most of them were only applicable for gentle slopes. This paper reports the experimental results of wave shoaling and breaking over the steep slopes to examine the applicability of the previous empirical formulas. Two steep bottom slopes of 1/3 and 1/5, and one gentle slope of 1/10 were conducted in the present experiments. Experimental results show that the shoaling distance of steep slopes become short and the surface waves may be partially reflected from the steep bottom, thus the estimation of wave shoaling using the well-known previous formula did not conform completely to the experimental results. The previous empirical formulas for the wave breaking criteria were also examined, and the modified equations to the steep beaches were proposed in this work. A numerical model was finally adopted to calculate the wave height transformation in the surf zone by introducing the modified breaking index.     

Parabolic Wave Propagation Modelling in Orthogonal Coordinate Systems

This paper presents a numerical model study of the propagation of water waves using the parabolic approximation of the mild-slope equation in the orthogonal coordinate system. Two types of coordinate systems are studied: (a) a general form of orthogonal coordinate system and (b) the conformal system, a special form of orthogonal coordinate system. Two typical examples, namely, expanded breakwaters and a circular channel, are studied to validate the model. First, the examples are studied by use of the general orthogonal coordinates. Then the same examples are computed by use of the confonnal system. The computational results show that the confonnal coordinate system generally gives better predictions than the general orthogonal system. A numerical technique for generating the conformal grid is combined with the numerical model to improve the practicability of the model. The comparison between the result from the numerical grid system and that from the analytical grid system shows that reliable computational results can be obtained by use of the numerical confonnal grid system.     

Periodic Intrusion of Cold Water from the Pacific Ocean into the Bottom Layer of the Bungo Channel in Japan

A cold-water intrusion, called a “bottom intrusion”, occurs in the lower layer of the Bungo Channel in Japan. It is an intrusion from the shelf slope region of the Pacific Ocean margin in the south of the channel. In order to reveal the fundamental characteristics of the bottom intrusion, we conducted long-term observations of water temperature at the surface and bottom layers of the channel and 15-day current observations at the bottom of the shelf-break region. The long-term water temperature data indicated that the bottom intrusion occurs repeatedly between early summer and late autumn, and its reiteration between early and mid-summer causes a local minimum of water temperature in the lower layer in mid-summer. Moreover, the data revealed that most of the bottom intrusions occurred in neap tidal periods. The current meter recorded a bottom intrusion with a speed of approximately 15 cm⋅s⁻¹. The current meter also revealed that the intruded cold water slowly retreated back to the shelf slope region after the intrusion. This revised version was published online in July 2006 with corrections to the Cover Date.     

东海陆架前缘斜坡(冲绳海槽西坡)北部的断块隆脊地貌

东海陆架前缘斜坡(冲绳海槽西坡)北部的断块隆脊,是呈长条形的脊状台式隆起,位于29°30′N-31°10′N;128°00′E-128°20′E之间。其由NNE向链状排列的断块山地组成,且与NNE向的断裂构造相一致,其顶部水深约300m～400m左右。从实测单道地震剖面看,隆脊的东西两侧均有断层出现。隆脊西坡倾向陆架一侧,坡度大,有的地方坡度超过10°;而东侧坡度较缓,仅1°左右,缓倾至海槽西坡坡底,并以沟坎式与冲绳海槽槽底相连。冲绳海槽地区的构造运动,使隆脊地区受到断裂构造的作用。NNE向的大断裂使该隆脊位置的东西两侧断裂下降而中间抬起,加之下部岩浆上侵,显现出链式排列的断块山地,表现为一条长形的断块隆脊构造地貌体。推测该地貌体形成的时期较晚,它是与断层的发生同时期形成的。     

Appraisal of storm beach buffer width for cyclonic waves

The loss of beach sand from berm and dune due to high waves and surge is a universal phenomenon associated with sporadic storm activities. To protect the development in a coastal hazard zone, hard structures or coastal setback have been established in many countries around the world. In this paper, the requirement of a storm beach buffer, being a lesser extent landward comparing with the coastal setback to ensure the safety of infrastructures, is numerically assessed using the SBEACH model for three categories of wave conditions in terms of storm return period, median sand grain size, berm width, and design water level. Two of the key outputs from the numerical calculations, berm retreat and bar formation offshore, are then analysed, as well as beach profile change. After having performed a series of numerical studies on selected large wave tank (LWT) test results with monochromatic waves using SBEACH, we may conclude that: (1) Berm erosion increases and submerged bar develops further offshore as the storm return period increases for beach with a specific sand grain size, or as the sand grain reduces on a beach under the action of identical wave condition; (2) Higher storm waves yield a large bar to form quicker and subsequently cause wave breaking on the bar crest, which can reduce the wave energy and limit the extent of the eroding berm; (3) A larger buffer width is required for a beach comprising small sand grain, in order to effectively absorb storm wave energy; and (4) Empirical relationships can be tentatively proposed to estimate the storm beach buffer width, from the input of wave conditions and sediment grain size. These results would benefit a beach nourishment project for shore protection or design of a recreational beach.     

陀螺定向中仪器常数的适用范围

针对陀螺定向过程中已知边和未知边的相对位置定义较为模糊的现状,该文主要探讨了对于同一陀螺定向边,由于不同距离与方位的已知边测定的仪器常数不同,从而影响定向精度的问题;并通过试验分析,得出了在陀螺定向过程中,测定仪器常数的地面已知边与地下定向边的平面位置的适用范围。结果表明,已知边与定向边的距离不同对仪器常数影响较大;已知边与定向边的相对方位不同对仪器常数的影响较小。     

边坡稳定分析的神经网络改进模糊点估计法

边坡稳定性分析中,模糊点估计法能同时考虑模糊不确定性和随机不确定性因素。针对传统模糊点估计法计算工作量大的缺点,提出一种神经网络改进模糊点估计法。利用拉丁超立方抽样法和径向基函数神经网络（RBF）建立边坡安全系数的预测模型;对黏聚力和内摩擦角等模糊随机变量取λ截集,并在各截集水平对参数进行组合;利用建立的预测模型对各参数组合的安全系数进行预测;最后由统计矩点估计法计算边坡的可靠度指标。实例分析表明：改进模糊点估计法使用方便、结果可靠,且能通过增加λ截集水平的数目来提高计算精度。对于含有2～4个模糊随机变量的边坡,采用改进模糊点估计法计算可靠度时λ截集水平的数目可近似取25。     

华南地区崩岗侵蚀灾害及其防治

根据区域调查和定位研究资料,介绍了华南地区崩岗侵蚀及其灾害特点,概述了崩岗的形成、发育规律及其演变过程,分析了崩岗侵蚀及其灾害的影响因素.提出进行崩岗灾害防治时,应在水土保持传统方法基础上,整合水文地质学和工程地质学及其它相关学科理论,应用GIS技术对崩岗侵蚀进行科学监测和管理,为坡地利用和环境整治以及灾害防治提供依据.     

中国开辟区不利开采地形类型及其分布

利用1998年"大洋一号"调查船近海底作业所获的深拖海底电视和照相系统资料,对中国开辟区不利开采地形类型及其分布特征进行了研究,并对海底地形的坡度进行了计算,结果表明:(1)中国开辟区东、西两区海底的东向坡和西向坡是均衡分布的。东、西两区海底地形坡度的分布特征明显不同,东区海底地形坡度以0～15°为主,而西区坡度大于3°的地形则很少。坡度大于5°的地形主要分布于坡脚处,特别是坡度超过15°的地形总是出现在水深变化的转折点处。(2)研究区不利开采地形可分为坡度为5～15°和大于15°两种类型,东区地形坡度大于5°的不利开采地形比西区多14%,东区坡度大于15°的地形为3.6%,比西区(仅为1.4%)多,东、西两区都有少量坡度近90°的地形出现,并且这种地形在东区所占比率比西区大,说明东区断崖、陡坎和断裂沟槽比西区多,地形也更为复杂多变。