Study of irregular wave run-up over fringing reefs based on a shock-capturing Boussinesq model

This paper presents the results of a parametric study of irregular wave run-up over fringing reefs using the shock-capturing Boussinesq wave model Funwave-TVD to better understand the role of fringing reefs in the mitigation of wave-driven flooding. Laboratory experiments were newly performed with a typical fringing reef profile and typical hydrodynamic conditions to validate the model. Experimental data shows irregular wave run-ups are dominated by the low-frequency motions and confirms the run-up resonant phenomenon over the back-reef slope, which has been revealed in previous numerical studies. It is demonstrated that irregular wave evolution and run-up over fringing reefs are reasonably reproduced by the present model with a proper grid size. However, the infragravity run-up height and highest 2% run-up height over the back-reef slope are under-predicted due to the underestimation of the infragravity wave height over the reef flat. The validated model was then utilized to model irregular wave transformations and run-ups under different conditions. Through a series of numerical experiments, the effects of key hydrodynamic and reef geometry parameters, including the reef flat width, water depth over the reef flat, fore-reef slope angle and back-reef slope angle, on the irregular wave run-up were investigated. Variations of spectral components of irregular wave run-ups were examined to better understand the physical process underlying the effect of each parameter.     

Numerical study of sand scour with a modified Eulerian model based on incipient motion theory

Application of the standard Eulerian model to simulations of sand scour results in unrealistic phenomena. Therefore, the present work develops a modified Eulerian model based on sand incipient motion theory. The modified model is applied for simulating a two-dimensional single vertical jet and a moving planar jet. The simulation results generally demonstrate fairly good agreement with published results of scour profiles and the velocity contours of the water and sand phases. In addition, equations to describe self-similar scour profiles for the moving planar jet cases are given. The results demonstrate that the modified model efficiently and accurately simulates the two-dimensional sand scour produced by jets, particularly for the moving jet cases.     

杭州湾海域50年一遇波浪数值模拟研究

杭州湾外围海域岛礁众多,波浪传播机制复杂。为了了解该海域的波浪分布特征,采用MIKE 21 SW模块建立了杭州湾海域波浪数值模型,利用实测波浪资料对模型进行了验证,结果表明该模型适用于模拟杭州湾海域的波浪传播。利用1970—2002年嵊山海洋站实测极值波浪资料推算50年一遇波浪要素,将其作为模型边界条件,对杭州湾海域50年一遇的设计波浪进行了模拟,并对该海域的波浪传播特征进行了分析。结果表明,杭州湾内波高较之外海明显减小,外围众多岛礁起到了很好的遮挡保护作用。     

A Bingham-plastic model for fluid mud transport under waves and currents

Simplified equations of fluid mud motion, which is described as Bingham-Plastic model under waves and currents, are presented by order analysis. The simplified equations are non-linear ordinary differential equations which are solved by hybrid numerical-analytical technique. As the computational cost is very low, the effects of wave current parameters and fluid mud properties on the transportation velocity of the fluid mud are studied systematically. It is found that the fluid mud can move toward one direction even if the shear stress acting on the fluid mud bed is much smaller than the fluid mud yield stress under the condition of wave and current coexistence. Experiments of the fluid mud motion under current with fluctuation water surface are carried out. The fluid mud transportation velocity predicted by the presented mathematical model can roughly match that measured in experiments.     

动力学模型预测泥鳅(Misgurnus anguillicaudatus)半干制品的货架期

以泥鳅(Misgurnus anguillicaudatus)半干制品为研究对象,测定和分析其在不同贮藏温度(4°C、20°C、30°C和40°C)下,菌落总数、挥发性盐基氮(TVBN)、脂肪氧化程度(TBA值)与感官评分各项指标随贮藏时间的变化。结果表明,泥鳅半干制品在不同贮藏温度下,随着贮藏时间的延长品质逐渐下降,贮藏温度越低,品质指标变化越缓慢。经Pearson相关性分析,确定影响泥鳅半干制品品质变化的关键因子为菌落总数;基于Arrhenius方程,进一步建立菌落总数与贮藏时间、贮藏温度之间的动力学模型,该模型中活化能Ea为26.5 kJ/mol,反应速率常数k0为3186.6,推算得出泥鳅半干制品货架期预测值与实测值相对误差较小,该动力学模型可准确预测泥鳅半干制品在4—40°C贮藏温度下的货架期。本研究可为泥鳅半干制品的开发、流通奠定理论基础。     

Nonparametric Estimation of Undrained Shear Strength for Normally Consolidated Clays

For decades, various well-known empirical correlations have been established and commonly used to estimate the undrained shear strength of normally consolidated clays in geotechnical practice. However, there are still many contradictory cases regarding the validity of these correlations, so their applicability and reliability are questionable. In this study, an extensive geotechnical database for normally consolidated clays has been compiled. Next, a Bayesian nonparametric method is exploited to identify the most critical soil index properties in inferring the undrained shear strength and a new predictive model is proposed. Finally, the performance of the proposed predictive model is assessed and compared with two well-known correlations using an independent testing database. It confirms that the proposed model not only possesses high predictability, but also provides superior performance over other existing empirical correlations.     

海上溢油油膜厚度实验室模拟和理论模型对比研究

溢油量是衡量溢油规模的关键指标,是处理溢油事故的重要依据。油膜厚度是确定溢油量的基本前提,是一个尚未解决的国际难题。实验室中模拟了不同阶段和不同环境条件下扩展油膜的厚度变化特征。结果表明,实验室模拟与理论模型分析具有基本一致的变化趋势,扩展速度与扩展时间成反比;温度是影响油膜厚度的重要因素,相同条件下,温度越高,油膜厚度越小;海水盐度会影响溢油扩展,但这种影响并未延伸到对油膜厚度的控制上。由于实验室模拟限定在平静海面条件下,并未考虑风和海流等扩展中不容忽视的因素,故与理论构建模型相比系数相差较大。通过对比分析,前期构建的理论模型更能准确地反映海洋溢油的实际情况,加之在实例验证中的较高准确性,该模型具有业务化实施和广泛推广的潜力。     

三传感器波浪水槽二次反射主动吸收方法

三传感器波浪水槽二次反射主动吸收方法是加拿大科学院水力中心最近开发的一种水槽反射波控制技术。该法在造波板前 1～ 2倍波长处布置 3个传感器 ,通过入反射波分离方法得到准确的入反射波参数 ,以此调整造波信号 ,有效地吸收由建筑物反射回到造波板的二次反射波。文中在分析波浪水槽二次反射吸收方法研究现状的基础上 ,介绍了加拿大水力中心对现有方法的改进及其效果     

SeaWiFS探测1997年闽南赤潮模型研究

在１９９７年秋季厦门附近海域微吓灌赤潮水体现场反射光谱测量的基础上,根据对ＳｅｓＷｉＦＳ可见光范围内各波段离水辐射率变化的分析,提出３、４、５波段离水辐射率差值（Ｌｗ５＋Ｌｗ３－２Ｌｗ４）〉Ｃ模型,用它计算了１９９７年１１月和１２月 潮时相的ＳｅａＷｉＦＳ图象,结果和赤潮发生的实际状况一致。