Theoretical Model and Random Simulation for Nonlinear Interaction of Irregular Waves with Vertical Wall

According to the theoretical solutions for the nonlinear three-dimensional gravity surface waves and their interactions with vertical wall previously proposed by the lead author, in this paper an exact second-order random model of the unified wave motion process for nonlinear irregular waves and their interactions with vertical wall in uniform current is formulated, the corresponding theoretical nonlinear spectrum is derived, and the digital simulation model suitable to the use of the FFT (Fast Fourier Tansform) algorithm is also given. Simulations of wave surface, wave pressure, total wave pressure and its moment are performed. The probability properties and statistical characteristics of these realizations are tested, which include the verifications of normality for linear process and of non-normality for nonlinear process; the consistances of the theoretical spectra with simulated ones; the probability properties of apparent characterstics, such as amplitudes, periods, and extremes (maximum and minimum, positive and negative extremes). The statistical analysis and comparisons demonstrate that the proposed theoretical and computing models are realistic and effective, the estimated spectra are in good agreement with the theoretical ones, and the probability properties of the simulated waves are similar to those of the sea waves. At the same time, the simulating computation can be completed rapidly and easily.     

Irregular wave-induced seepage action on cylinders resting on rubble mound foundation

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不规则波折射的数学模型

本文对光易型方向函数中的集中度参数Ｓｍａｘ进行了推算，得到了在不同底坡和入射角情况下，Ｓｍａｘ～ｄ／（Ｌｓ）。的关系曲线，从而较合理地给出了浅水区域的方向谱Ｓ（ｆ，θ）。本文用谱分量的线性迭加法建立了不规则波折射的数值模式，计算了具有各种理论方向谱的不规则波在平行直线状等深线海滩上的折射。其结果得到了不规则波折射系数ｋｓｒ的计算图。将所得的结果与用正弦波求得的值作了比较。另外，本文还探讨了方向谱的分割数与不规则波折射计算精度的关系，并对如何节省计算机时作了研究，从而确定了频率和方向的最佳分割数。     

Computation of Diffraction of Irregular Waves Behind Single Jetty

- This paper presents a calculation method for the diffraction of both regular waves and irregular waves of the single directional frequency spectrum behind a single jetty with a theoretical analysis, which has been confirmed through the model experiments, derives a method of computing the diffracted irregular waves behind the single jetty with the theoretical analysis on the basis of computation of the field data and gives the formulas and the figures of the computation of wave diffractions behind the vertical wall or mound single jetties.     

Refraction-Diffraction Model for Irregular Wave and Directional Spectrum Considering Current

- A mild-slope equation for combined refraction and diffraction of random waves in the independent time current is derived using Kirby equation(1984). In the derivation, the frequency of random waves is represented based on the time series concept, by a typical frequency and its deviation part. Numerical results, compared with those of laboratory experiments, demonstrate that new set of irregular mild slope equation with current is of good adaptability.     

消除"不规则频率"的非连续高阶元方法

针对使用边界元法计算波浪与结构物相互作用时所出现的“不规则频率”现象，采用连续高阶元和部分非连续高阶元对通过修改积分区域所获得的边界积分方程进行离散，有效地消除了“不规则频率”现象的发生。波浪作用下的截断圆柱所受到的水平波浪力和垂向波浪力的数值计算结果验证了该方法的有效性，同时考虑了非连续单元配置点的选择及单元划分数目对消除效果的影响。     

基于Maplnfo数据格式在GIS应用环境下等值线综合方法实现

等值线构建是GIS开发、数字地图绘制重要的研究内容之一。重点讨论了基于Maplnfo数据格式在GIS应用环境下等值线综合方法的实现，首先根据高程采样点跟踪等高线通过点，再利用五点光滑法、正轴抛物线加权平均光滑法以及MapX提供的光滑方法对等值线通过点进行光滑处理，从而绘制出光滑度好、准确美观的等值线，同时发现MapX所提供的光滑方法可能利用的就是正轴抛物线加权平均光滑法。通过大量的数据验证了绘制的正确性。     

Computation of Diffraction of Irregular Waves Behind Double Jetty

The coefficient of deffraction of regular waves behind the double jetty has been computed in this paper at first by using the singularity distribution method. The model tests conducted for diffraction of irregular waves with a unidirectional frequency spectrum have confirmed good agreement between the data measured in experiments and the results computed by the singularity distribution method plus the linear superposition method for the energy of component waves in the directional frequency spectra. Therefore, this technique for component waves in the directional spectra has been further used to compute diffraction of irregular waves of multidirection, including the employment of a directional distribution function of the cos2 type, as well as the Bretschneider-Misuyann frequency spectrum.     

Impact Pressure of Incident Regular Waves and Irregular Waves on the Subface of Open-Piled Structures

1 .IntroductionInrecentyears,theimpactloadsactingonthesuperstructureofopen piledwharfs,shoretres tles,oildrillingplatforms ,etc .,havebecomeanimportantsafetyissueinoffshoreengineering .Owingtotheeffectofseabedsubsidenceandtheoccurrenceofextremestormconditionsthatexceedpriorpre dictions,theclearanceofthesuperstructuresofsomemarinestructuresmaybeinsufficient.So ,whenwavesoflargecrestspropagatebeneaththestructure ,itsundersidewillbesubjectedtoimpactloadsofconsiderablemagnitudeswhichmaycausethesup…     

A Calculation Method for Incidence and Reflection of Irregular Waves Along Seawalls

Some researches have been made in this aspect.In the method by Walton Jr.(1992),incidentwaves are supposed to be the overlapping result of M component waves with different frequencies whichmay take different directions,the direction of incident waves should be available in advance,but in fact thedirection of incident waves is not available.In our study,incident waves are supposed to be composed ofM overlapping component waves with different frequencies,and different frequencies have different direc-tions.Based on the irregular wave reflection theory,the calculation formulas of wave direction,complexamplitude of incident waves,and complex amplitude of reflected waves in surface which are composed ofcomponent waves are derived by means of discrete Fourier transform.Then,the frequency spectra of inci-dent waves and reflected waves and the reflection coefficient of waves with corresponding frequencies areobtained.Verification of the method and the calculation results from in-situ measured data indicate thatt