Generation of random waves in time-dependent extended mild-slope equations using a source function method

We develop techniques of numerical wave generation in the time-dependent extended mild-slope equations of Suh et al. [1997. Time-dependent equations for wave propagation on rapidly varying topography. Coastal Engineering 32, 91–117] and Lee et al. [2003. Extended mild-slope equation for random waves. Coastal Engineering 48, 277–287] for random waves using a source function method. Numerical results for both regular and irregular waves in one and two horizontal dimensions show that the wave heights and the frequency spectra are properly reproduced. The waves that pass through the wave generation region do not cause any numerical disturbances, showing usefulness of the source function method in avoiding re-reflection problems at the offshore boundary.     

卫星海洋遥感的发展和预报中心遥感应用

本文简要介绍了卫星海洋遥感的发展情况和可获得的海洋气象观测数据,介绍了预报中心卫星遥感的发展历史和现今状况,以及为海洋环境监测和预报提供的海洋遥感信息产品,并给出了部分产品示例.     

Long-Term Effect of TMD on Vibration Control of An MDOF Offshore Fixed Platform

A three-dimensional fixed offshore platform in deep water modeled by the finite element method is studied in this paper. Analysis of the dynamic response of the MDOF structure is realized taking the non-linearity of the wave drag force and the wave-structure interaction into account. The structural response statistics, which have Gaussian distributions, are used to evaluate the vibration effect of the structure without TMD and with TMD. And an optimal method to design TMD controlling the first mode of the multi-mode structure is proposed. Moreover, the probabilities of occurrence of sea states at the platform site are considered for prediction of the long-term effect of a TMD. Simulation results demonstrate that the long-term effect of a well-designed TMD is good and the practical use is possible due to the good stability of its optimal parameters under different sea states.     

Marine Ecology - A Century of Changes

Abstract. The major changes within the concepts of marine ecology are investigated, with the aim to design this new journal's scientific format. Four phases of marine sciences are distinguished: the phase of seafarers, of oceanographic expeditions, of marine stations, and of field research. The changes in the latter two are discussed in detail. The changes are described as occurring along three axes. First, as a movement towards the object; accomplished by fieldwork, scientific diving, remote controlled equipment, and by underwater experimentation. Second, the cooperation between several disciplines that led towards bridging gaps. And lastly, how the discovery of unifying principles in ecology (the development of an ecological theory) led the approach in marine ecology towards increasing complexity.     

Using the Mellor–Yamada mixing scheme in seasonally ice-covered seas—Corrigendum to: Parameterization of vertical mixing in the Weddell Sea [Ocean Modelling 6 (2004) 83–100]

A coding error in the s-Coordinate Primitive Equation Model (SPEM) has led to misleading statements about the behaviour of the Mellor–Yamada level 2 parameterization of vertical mixing. It has been claimed that the scheme removes static instability only very slowly and preserves statically unstable stratifications for an unrealistic long time. This note corrects this statement by demonstrating that the Mellor–Yamada mixing scheme, if implemented correctly, tends to overestimate rather than underestimate vertical mixing in seasonally ice-covered seas. Similar to other mixing schemes with the same behaviour, this leads to spurious open ocean deep convection, an unrealistic homogenization of the water column, and a significant reduction of sea ice volume.     

河口环流和盐水入侵Ⅱ--径流量和海平面上升的影响

本文利用本序列上篇论文建立的理想河口数值模式,研究径流量和海平面上升对河口环流和盐水入侵的影响.在径流量增大的情况下,口门内表层向海的流速增大,底层向陆的密度流减弱,滞流点下移.口门外侧向口门的密度流增大,上升流趋于增强.口门内盐水入侵减弱,口外盐度减小、冲淡水扩展范围增大.在口门上游北岸底层盐度下降明显,口门处南岸表层盐度下降明显.径流量变化对盐水入侵影响十分巨大.在海平面上升的情况下,拦门沙区域向陆的密度流增强,滞流点上移,表层向海的流动增大.口门内盐水入侵增强,口外盐度增大,冲淡水扩展范围减小.海平面上升对盐水入侵影响十分明显,北岸底层盐度增大尤为特出.     

中国开辟区不利开采地形类型及其分布

利用1998年"大洋一号"调查船近海底作业所获的深拖海底电视和照相系统资料,对中国开辟区不利开采地形类型及其分布特征进行了研究,并对海底地形的坡度进行了计算,结果表明:(1)中国开辟区东、西两区海底的东向坡和西向坡是均衡分布的。东、西两区海底地形坡度的分布特征明显不同,东区海底地形坡度以0～15°为主,而西区坡度大于3°的地形则很少。坡度大于5°的地形主要分布于坡脚处,特别是坡度超过15°的地形总是出现在水深变化的转折点处。(2)研究区不利开采地形可分为坡度为5～15°和大于15°两种类型,东区地形坡度大于5°的不利开采地形比西区多14%,东区坡度大于15°的地形为3.6%,比西区(仅为1.4%)多,东、西两区都有少量坡度近90°的地形出现,并且这种地形在东区所占比率比西区大,说明东区断崖、陡坎和断裂沟槽比西区多,地形也更为复杂多变。     

崇明东滩沉积环境探讨

为探讨崇明东滩的沉积环境，了解崇明东滩的植被、水动力等对沉积的影响，对崇明进行了为期一年的实地观测和采样实验分析研究，研究结果表明：①沉积物中含有细砂、粉砂、黏土，其中粉砂是主要组分。塑造滩地的动力以潮汐作用为主，波浪作用居于次要地位；②沉积物的平均粒径自北线断面向南线断面、自高潮向低潮滩有逐渐变粗、分选变差的趋势，且平均粒径具有明显的季节变化；③潮滩季节性冲淤变化主要是与不同季节水文条件的差异性、潮滩植被季节变化及风暴天气等有关。