Wave run-up and overtopping on smooth and rough slopes of coastal structures

A series of hydraulic model tests has been carried out in a glass wave flume to investigate the influences of wave height, wave period, wave steepness, surf similarity parameter, roughness, layer thickness and porosity on wave run-up and overtopping of 1:2 sloped impermeable and permeable breakwaters fronted by a 1:10 gentle, smooth beach slope. The analysis of results involves the correlation between the overtopping energy transfer with the relative wall height and the relationship between wave run-up and overtopping rate. Further, measured wave run-up and overtopping rates are compared with the results given in the Shore Protection Manual (1984), Automated Coastal Engineering System (1992)and results of other investigators.     

Long-Period Distribution of Wave Heights and Its Application

This paper reveals that the long-period statistic distribution of the characteristic heights of deep-water waves assumes the lognormal distribution. Thereafter, the largest wave-height which may occur in the service life of coastal structures is derived in this paper.     

南麂站定常波风浪波高与风速的经验关系

本文以南麂海洋站１９８３～１９９０年风、浪的实测资料为依据，建立了南麂海城春、夏、秋、冬季定常波风浪波高与风速的经验关系式。检验结果表明，曲线回归显著，计算值与实测值吻合良好。文中还对偏ＮＮＥ向和偏ＳＳＷ向计算波高随风速增大的快慢，同一方向在同一风速作用下计算波高的季节变化及其机理作了初浅的讨论。     

山东蓬莱西庄附近海域波浪与海岸侵蚀

本文探讨西庄附近海域的波浪状况,分析由于人工挖沙影响,使得登州浅滩的防护作用发生变化,导致近岸波浪作用增强,造成海岸侵蚀.最后讨论设计波要素的确定,为防浪护坡工程提供必要的设计依据.     

规则波和不规则波作用下消波建筑物前的波高分析

消波建筑物在国内外已得到广泛应用。本文采用近似方法分析了明基床上直立式消波建筑物前的波高及消波室内的波高，从而确定建筑物的消波效果。并在规则波的基础上将成果推广至不规则波作用下的情况。     

海水叶绿素α浓度遥感测量的实验研究

本文描述了1989年11月在青岛即墨岙山养殖基地所做的海水叶绿素σ浓度遥感测量的基础实验。该实验获得了高浓度叶绿素α含量的海水反射光谱。该反射光谱的特征波段为:波谷在485nm;波峰在450nm 和535nm;“节点”在572nm.根据该实验数据选取了叶绿素α浓度两种双波段估算模式.分析结果表明;两种模式的精度都在50%以上,且双波段反射率的差值法优于双波段反射率比值法.     

海洋环流模式中不同近似假设下的海表高度

Boussinesq近似是现代海洋环流模式中经常采用的假设，但随着海洋模式的不断发展完善以及气候研究应用的需要，有必要估算Boussinesq近似造成的模式误差。分别利用一个非Boussinesq近似的海洋模式与另一个结构相同且采用Boussinesq近似的模式计算海表高度，并同时利用模式预报的温度、盐度资料计算了比容异常高度。分析结果显示，这3种不同定义的海表高度无论空间结构，还是时间演变，都基本类似，尤其在热带海区最接近，差值≤1cm。Boussinesq近似意味着在模式中以体积守恒代替质量守恒，通常的做法是对其进行简单的质量补偿来保持质量守恒。比较说明，以质量补偿方法进行的高度订正对减小Boussinesq近似带来的误差没有本质的意义。     

南海波高熵和风速熵

根据风速的统计分布，给出了有因次风速熵和无因次风速熵的定义及其计算方法，使用ＧＥＯＳＡＴ高度计１９８６年１１月－１９８９年２月的有效波高和风速的资料，计算，分析了南海海域上的波高熵，风速熵，给出它们的时间变化特征和空间变化特征，并对不同随机量的无因次熵，即随机度进行了比较。     

Triple diagram method for the prediction of wave height and period

Many formulations have been developed so far to predict the wave height and period from fetch length and wind blowing duration for a constant wind speed. This study aimed to predict wave parameters from fetch length and meteorological factors by using triple diagram methodology based on Kriging principles. Proposed model results were compared with Joint North Sea Wave Project (JONSWAP) model which is used so commonly in the ocean and coastal engineering studies. For the implementation of the methodology hourly wave and wind data were obtained from a buoy located in Lake Ontario. Numerical and graphical comparisons demonstrated that the proposed method outperforms the classical formulation.     

A probability distribution for depth-limited extreme wave heights in a sea state

A model for the depth-limited distribution of the highest wave in a sea state is presented. The distribution for the extreme wave height is based on a probability density function (pdf) for depth-limited wave height distribution for individual waves [Méndez, F.J., Losada, I.J., Medina, R. 2004. Transformation model of wave height distribution. Coastal Eng, Vol. 50, 97:115.] and considers the correlation between consecutive waves. The model is validated using field data showing a good representation of the extreme wave heights in the surf zone. Some important statistical wave heights are parameterized obtaining useful expressions that can be used in further calculations.