Morphodynamics of intertidal bars on a megatidal beach, Merlimont, Northern France

The morphology, bedforms and hydrodynamics of Merlimont beach, in northern France, characterised by intertidal bars and a spring tidal range of 8.3 m, were surveyed over a 10-day experiment with variable wave conditions that included a 2-day storm with significant wave heights of up to 2.8 m. The beach exhibited two pronounced bar-trough systems located between the mean sea level and low neap tide level. Waves showed a cross-shore depth modulation, attaining maximum heights at high tide. The mean current was characterised dominantly by strong tide-induced longshore flows significantly reinforced by wind forcing during the storm, and by weaker, dominantly offshore, wave-induced flows. Vertical tidal water-level variations (tidal excursion rates) showed a bimodal distribution with a peak towards the mid-tide position and low rates near low and high water. The two bar-trough systems in the mid-tide zone remained stable in position during the experiment but showed significant local change. The absence of bar migration in spite of the relatively energetic context of this beach reflects high macro-scale bar morphological lag due to a combination of the large vertical tidal excursion rates in the mid-tide zone, the cross-shore wave structure, and the pronounced dual bar-trough system. The profile exhibited a highly variable pattern of local morphological change that showed poor correlation with wave energy levels and tidal excursion rates. Profile change reflected marked local morphodynamic feedback effects due mainly to breaks in slope associated with the bar-trough topography and with trough activity. Change was as important during low wave-energy conditions as during the storm. Strong flows in the entrenched troughs hindered cross-shore bar mobility while inducing longshore migration of medium-sized bedforms that contributed in generating short-term profile change. The large size and location of the two pronounced bars in the mid-tide zone of the beach are tentatively attributed respectively to the relatively high wave-energy levels affecting Merlimont beach, and to the cross-shore increase in wave height hinged on tidal modulation of water depths. These two large quasi-permanent bars probably originated as essentially breakpoint bars and are different from a small bar formed by swash and surf processes in the course of the experiment at the mean high water neap tide level, which is characterised by a certain degree of tidal stationarity and larger high-tide waves.     

2000年夏季莱州湾生态环境要素的分布特征

论文依据 2 0 0 0年夏季 8月 2 9日至 9月 2日莱州湾的 1次综合性生态环境调查资料 ,给出了表、中、底 3层的平均温度、盐度、主要营养盐浓度及其比例和叶绿素 a浓度 ,分析了莱州湾的温盐结构、主要营养盐和叶绿素 a的分布特征。由于莱州湾的水深较浅 ,各要素的垂直分布都比较均匀。生态环境要素的水平分布表现为小清河口为高温、低盐、高营养盐和高叶绿素 a浓度区 ,小清河口东测的湾顶区域为高温、高盐、相对低的营养盐和叶绿素 a浓度区。此次观测到的盐度较 1997年以前有明显升高。莱州湾各层平均的 N/ P和 Si/ N分别为 16.73和 1.67,都比 1998～ 1999年渤海中部的值大 ,但 N/ P比 1992 ,1995和 1996年莱州湾的 N/ P明显偏低。叶绿素 a浓度与硅酸盐浓度之间有较好的相关关系 (α=0 .0 1) ,表、中、底 3层叶绿素 a浓度同硅酸盐浓度的线性相关系数分别为 :0 .5 4 ,0 .68和 0 .67     

埕岛油田海上石油平台基础冲刷研究

海洋石油平台的建立会改变平台周围的水动力条件，其中平台的基础及与之连接的海底管缆(输油管道、注水管道、海底电缆等)附近产生冲刷现象，对平台和海底管缆的安全造成威胁。根据对研究区典型平台的4次实洲水深并结合以往资料，分析了埕岛油田海上石油平台基础冲刷的过程及其规律。     

受扰线性系统的前馈-反馈最优控制

针对具有外部持续扰动的线性系统，研究前馈-反馈最优控制律的设计问题。给出了最优控制律的存在唯一性条件。并提出了最优控制律的设计算法。利用滤波器解决了前馈控制的物理不可实现问题。仿真结果表明，此算法易于实现，与传统的反馈最优控制相比对抑制外部扰动具有较强的鲁棒性。     

A review of eastern tropical Pacific oceanography: Summary

The collection of articles in this volume reviewing eastern tropical Pacific oceanography is briefly summarized, and updated references are given. The region is an unusual biological environment as a consequence of physical characteristics and patterns of forcing – including a strong and shallow thermocline, the ITCZ and coastal wind jets, equatorial upwelling, the Costa Rica Dome, eastern boundary and equatorial current systems, low iron input, inadequate ventilation of subthermocline waters, and dominance of ENSO-scale temporal variability. Remaining unanswered questions are presented.     

黄海表层盐度年变化的谐波分析

本文采用黄海（３５°Ｎ以北，１２４°Ｅ以西）断面调查资料，对海域表层盐度年变化进行谐波分析，讨论了年波与半年波位相与振幅在海区的分 布不同水系消长及运动的关系。     

两项新技术及其在海水苗种生产中的应用

本文介绍了两项新技术，用泡沫净化空气、海水和生物效应灯，及其在海水苗种生产中的应用。文中分别讨论了它们的原理、设计安装及使用效果。希望这两项新技术能够得到推广，以提高出苗率，增加海水苗种生产的经济效益。     

末次盛冰期以来渤、黄、东海陆架底质分布演变过程模拟研究

渤、黄、东海陆架底质的形成分布与末次盛冰期之后的海侵密切相关。末次盛冰期结束、海侵开始以来 ,潮流是渤、黄、东海陆架上的永久性主导作用应力。为从长期沉积动力演变过程的角度 ,探讨渤、黄、东海陆架底质形成分布的有关成因问题 ,利用数值模拟手段 ,再现了末次盛冰期以来 6个时期渤、黄、东海陆架潮流作用下海底的冲淤格局及底质分布。结果表明 ,扬子浅滩南侧东海外陆架的砂质沉积基本上是自 - 80 m海面以来形成的。扬子浅滩形成于 -5 2 m海面之后 ,至 - 3 0 m海面时已有一定规模 ,全新世最大海侵之后 ,逐渐形成现在规模的扬子浅滩。南黄海中部泥自 - 5 2 m海面时就已开始形成 ,- 3 0 m海面时范围很大 ,侵入北黄海 ,全新世最大海侵以来 ,逐渐调整到现在的范围。渤海中央泥、北黄海西部泥、浙闽岸外泥、辽东半岛西侧与北侧的砂质沉积、西朝鲜湾与江华湾中的砂质沉积以及苏北浅滩是自全新世最大海侵以来逐渐形成的。海州湾中砂质沉积形成的盛期在公元 8世纪之后。济洲岛西南泥、南黄海东部泥很可能分别形成于 - 3 0 m海面、- 5 2 m海面以来。全新世渤、黄、东海陆架底质分布的演变过程大致分为 2个阶段 :全新世最大海侵之前为渤、黄、东海陆架底质分布宏观格局的形成阶段 ;全新世最大海侵至今为渤     

Experimental Investigation of Instantaneous Properties of Wave Slamming on the Plate

The purpose of this paper is to investigate the instantaneous properties of wave slamming on the plate structure of an open structure.The advanced instantaneous measuring technique-Particle Image Velocimetry(PIV) is applied to acquire the instantaneous velocity field of wave slamming.From the cross-correlation analysis results of the images captured by the CCD camera,the flow fields of wave impacting on the structure are displayed visually,and the instantaneous whole-field fluid velocity vectors are obtained.The relation between the instantaneous peak impacting pressures and the instantaneous velocities of water particles is studied by probability analysis.