Experimental study of nonlinear wave—wave interaction and white-cap dissipation of wind-generated waves

An experimental scheme was designed to obtain laboratory-scale verification of Hasselmann's nonlinear wave—wave interaction and white-cap dissipation theories. Water wave height and fluctuating air pressure were measured simultaneously in a fixed reference frame as a function of fetch in the Stanford Wind, Water-Wave Research Facility under the conditions of a steady wind and a stationary wave spectrum. All the data were obtained 5 mm above the highest point of the wind waves for five stations (3 m apart on average) and at three wind speeds (7.1, 8.0 and 8.9 m/sec). The wave height and fluctuating pressure were measured by a capacitance wave-height gauge and a crystal pressure transducer, respectively.Based on the experimental results, Hasselmann's nonlinear wave—wave interaction theory appears to be valid. Barnett's approximate parametric equation for calculating the energy transfer of nonlinear wave—wave interaction and Hasselmann's white-capping dissipation model were also verified and appeared to be applicable in the relatively low and intermediate frequency region of a wave spectrum for a normalized fetch range of 100–500. Based on the results of an overall energy balance in a gravity wind-wave spectrum, the nonlinear wave—wave interaction mechanism is shown to play a dominant role in the energy transfer processes after the wave spectrum is generated.     

Determining latent heat flux at sea: A comparison between wind-wave interaction and profile methods

Estimates of the latent heat flux at the air-sea interface made by the profile method are compared to estimates by a wind-wave interaction (WWI) method that takes into account both wind and wave characteristics. A data set that consisted of profile measurements (six levels) of wind, temperature, and humidity over the Arabian Sea was used to compare the methods, and the agreement is good. It is shown that this WWI method can be used to compute the shear velocity, and then the results can be applied in the computation of latent heat flux. The parameters used in the WWI method are wind speed and direction, air temperature and humidity, sea-surface temperature, and significant wave height and period. All these data may be obtained from standard ship observations.     

Seasonal evolution of the intraseasonal variability of China summer precipitation

Climate Dynamics - Seasonal cycle of China summer precipitation has significant impacts on its subseasonal predictability; yet current understanding of seasonal evolution of the intraseasonal...     

Modelling of hydrodynamics and cohesive sediment transport in Tanshui River estuarine system,Taiwan

A laterally averaged two-dimensional numerical model is used to simulate hydrodynamics and cohesive sediment transport in the Tanshui River estuarine system. The model handles tributaries as well as the main stem of the estuarine system. Observed time series of salinity data and tidally averaged salinity distributions have been compared with model results to calibrate the turbulent diffusion coefficients. The overall model verification is achieved with comparisons of residual currents and salinity distribution. The model reproduces the prototype water surface elevation, currents and salinity distributions. Comparisons of the suspended cohesive sediment concentrations calculated by the numerical model and the field data at various stations show good agreement. The validated model is applied to investigate the tidally averaged salinity distributions, residual circulation and suspended sediment concentration under low flow conditions in the Tanshui River estuarine system. The model results show that the limit of salt intrusion in the mainstem estuary is located at Hsin-Hai bridge in Tahan Stream, 26 km from the River mouth under Q75 flow. The null point is located at the head of salt intrusion, using 1 ppt isohaline as an indicator. The tidally averaged sediment concentration distribution exhibits a local maximum around the null point.     

An application of Boussinesq equations to Bragg reflection of irregular waves

A numerical model based on the second-order fully nonlinear Boussinesq equations of Wei et al. [1995. Journal of Waterway, Port, Coastal and Ocean Engineering 121 (5), 251-263] is developed to simulate the Bragg reflection of both regular and irregular surface waves scattered by submerged bars. Particularly for incident regular waves, the computed results are observed to agree very well with the existing experimental data as presented by Davies and Heathershaw [1984. Journal of Fluid Mechanics 144, 419-446] and Kirby and Anton [1990. Proceedings of the 22nd International Conference on Coastal Engineering, ASCE, New York, pp. 757–768). In the case of incident irregular waves, the simulated results reveal that the distribution of Bragg reflection from irregular waves becomes more flat than that of regular waves. Due to lack of experimental data, the numerical results for incident irregular waves are compared with those of the evolution equation of the mild-slope equation [Hsu et al., 2002 Proceedings of the 24th Ocean Engineering Conference in Taiwan, pp. 70–77 (in Chinese)]. In addition, several parameters such as the number of bars, the relative height of bars and the spacing of bars affecting Bragg reflection are also discussed.     

Using ADV backscatter strength for measuring suspended cohesive sediment concentration

Laboratory experiments were conducted at two institutes to reveal the relationship between acoustic backscatter strength and suspended sediment concentration (SSC). In total, three acoustic Doppler velocimeters (ADVs) with different frequencies (5, 10 and 16 MHz) were tested. Two different commercial clays and one natural sediment from Clay Bank site in the York River were checked for acoustic responses. The SSCs of selected sediments were artificially changed between a selected low and a high value in tap or de-ion water. Each ADV showed quite different backscatter responses depending on the sediment type and SSC. Not all devices had a good linear relationship between backscatter strength and SSC. Within a limited range of SSC, however, the backscatter strength can be well correlated with the SSC. Compared with optical backscattering sensor (OBS), the fluctuation of ADV backscatter signals was too noisy to be directly converted to the instantaneous changes of SSC due to high amplification ratio and small sampling volume. For the more accurate signal conversion for finding the fluctuation of SSC, the ensemble average should be applied to increase the signal-to-noise ratio. There are unexpected responses for the averaged backscatter wave strength: (1) high signals from small particles but low signals from large particles; and (2) two linear segments in calibration slope. These phenomena would be most likely caused by the different gain setting built in ADVs. The different acoustic responses to flocculation might also contribute somewhat if flocs are tightly packed. This study suggests that an ADV could be a useful instrument to estimate suspended cohesive sediment concentration and its fluctuation if the above concerns are clarified.     

中国东南部地区4-6月强降水的低频变化特征

利用全国2 400多台站逐日降水资料,分析了中国东南部地区4—6月10~30 d低频强降水的时空变化特征。结果表明:4—6月10~30 d低频强降水的方差大值区在中国的长江及其以南地区,中心位于江南的中东部,东南部地区4—6月10~30 d低频强降水距平的第一模态反映该区域呈一致变化。功率谱分析表明第一模态时间变化的周期以10~30 d低频分量为主。根据区域强降水及其10~30 d低频强降水、区域强降水正交经验函数(EOF)分析的第一模态时间系数(PC1)及PC1的10~30 d低频分量的年际方差,结合它们两两之间逐年的相关系数,确定了区域强降水10~30 d强振荡典型年份。对典型年降水异常分布的方差分析,表明强振荡年区域总降水量异常主要是由10~30 d强降水的低频变化引起的。     

Establishing the Database of Inundation Potential in Taiwan

The structural measure was the major solution for flood defense in Taiwan. However, the measure is always limited to the design standard and cannot prevent the damages when floods exceed certain scale. Therefore, non-structural measures for flood mitigation are the indispensable complements to structural solutions. The study introduces the establishment of inundation potential database that provides required information for the non-structural measures in Taiwan. The database was built by numerical simulations, based on different rainfall scenarios, and has been applied by the local governments of Taiwan for land use managements, flood warning systems, emergency responses, and flood insurance programs to reduce the flood damages and impacts.     

Polycyclic aromatic hydrocarbons in surface sediments of the East China Sea and their relationship with carbonaceous materials

This study measured concentrations of polycyclic aromatic hydrocarbons (PAHs) in surface sediments in the East China Sea (ECS) to investigate possible sources and fate of PAHs. Total concentration of PAHs in the sediments of the ECS ranged from 22 to 244 ng g(-1), with the highest levels in the coastal area and outer shelf. The observed PAH results showed elevated levels in both inner and outer shelf areas, a finding that is different from predictions by an ocean circulation model, suggesting that terrestrial sources are important for PAH contaminations in the ECS, while sediment resuspension, tidal changes and lateral transport may be important in affecting the distribution of PAHs in the outer shelf. The distribution of PAHs in the surface sediments of the ECS is similar to the distribution of carbonaceous materials (e.g., particulate organic carbon and black carbon), suggesting that carbonaceous materials may strongly affect the distribution of PAHs.