Morphodynamics of a bar-trough surf zone

A field study was made of the distinguishing morphodynamic processes operating in a surf zone which perennially exhibits accentuated bar-trough topography (the “longshore-bar-trough” and “rhytmic-bar-and-beach” states as described by Wright and Short, 1984). Characteristic features of the morphology include a shallow bar with a steep shoreward face, a deep trough, and a steep beach face. This morphology, which is favored by moderate breaker heights and small tidal ranges, strongly controls the coupled suite of hydrodynamic processes. In contrast to fully dissipative surf zones, the bar-trough surf zone is not at all saturated and oscillations at incident wave frequency remain dominant from the break point to the subaerial beach. The degree of incident wave groupiness does not change appreciably across the surf zone. Infragravity standing waves which, in dissipative surf zones, dominate the inshore energy, remain energetically secondary and occur at higher frequencies in the bar trough surf zone. Analyses of the field data combined with numerical simulations of leaky mode and edge wave nodal—antinodal positions over observed surf-zone profiles, indicate that the frequencies which prevail are favored by the resonant condition of antinodes over the bar and nodes in the trough. Standing waves which would have nodes over the bar are suppressed. Sediment resuspension in the surf zone appears to be largely attributable to the incident waves which are the main source of bed shear stress. In addition, the extra near-bottom eddy viscosity provided by the reformed, non-breaking waves traversing the trough significantly affects the vertical velocity profile of the longshore current. Whereas the bar is highly mobile in terms of onshore—offshore migration rates, the beach face and inner regions of the trough are remarkably stable over time.     

Heat flow and mass wasting in the Wilmington Canyon Region: U.S. Continental Margin

The average corrected heat flow in the Wilmington Canyon region, an area of inferred slope instability, is 35 ± 10 mW/m². This average heat flow is marginally consistent with the 46 ± 9 mW/m² measured at other North Atlantic sites over 160 m.y. old. High topographic relief causes most of the variability in surface heat flow and may lower the mean surface heat flow. There is no significant difference between the average corrected heat flow of 35 ± 10 mW/m² in sediment slide areas and the average corrected heat flow of 34 ± 10 mW/m² in undisturbed sediments.     

Short period internal waves over the Huanghe (Yellow River) delta front

Internal waves with periods of about 5 minutes and trough to crest heights of up to 6.2 m were observed acoustically over the actively accreting delta front of the Huanghe (Yellow River) in the western portion of the Gulf of Bohai, Peoples Republic of China. The radian frequency of the internal waves was close to the locally-observed Brunt-Vaisala frequency. Through the relatively short (one hour) duration of an internal wave train, the amplitude was observed to decrease progressively with time. These internal waves may cause resuspension of delta-front sediments.     

Nepheloid layers and internal waves over continental shelves and slopes

Theoretical and laboratory results indicate that bottom velocities within shoaling internal gravity waves intensify upslope approximately inversely proportional to the water depth. The elevated velocities (and bottom stresses) caused by shoaling and, possibly, breaking internal waves might explain the generation and maintenance of near-bottom nepheloid zones and attached turbid plumes that have been observed over certain continental shelves and slopes. This process is proposed as an explanation of zones of relatively low transmissibility that emanate from the upper continental slope near Newport submarine canyon off southern California.     

Behavioural Effects of Chemically Dispersed Oil and Subsequent Recovery in Diploria strigosa (Dana)

Abstract. Survival and behaviour of the hermatypic coral Diploria strigosa was studied during 6–24 h doses with water-accomodated fractions of chemically dispersed crude oil, and for a subsequent recovery period of 1 month. Experiments utilized a flow-through laboratory dosing procedure and incorporated petroleum hydrocarbon measurements in order to simulate a major but short-term oil spill in shallow subtidal benthic reef environments. Chemically dispersed oil treatments consisted of Arabian Light Crude oil with Corexit 9527 or BP1100WD at 1–20 ppm concentrations of oil.
In general, effects observed were sub-lethal, temporary, and associated with the highest concentrations tested. Responses to the presence of dispersed oil at 20ppm for 24 h included mesenterial filament extrusion, extreme tissue contraction, tentacle retraction and localized tissue rupture. The nature and severity of reactions during the dosing phase varied between colonies and treatments, but colonies typically resumed normal behaviour within 2 h to 4 d of the recovery period. It therefore seems unlikely that observed biological effects would impair long-term viability.     

An experimental study of elastohydrodynamics of towed flexible cylinders aided by video image processing

Experimental studies of the elastohydrodynamics of towed flexible cylinders aided by video image processing are reported. A scale model of a prototype hydrophone array has been designed, fabricated, and tested in a speed range of 1.0 to 4.5 m/sec. The experiments were conducted in a 67-m long towing tank. The instrumented flexible member, 12.7 mm in diameter and 13.55 m long, was fixed at the one end and free at the other and was slightly lighter than neutrally bouyant. Three tail drogue configurations were employed. An integral part of the physical model tests was the development and utilization of a microcomputer based video image processing system for model configuration reconstitution. Instability characteristics, tail acceleration spectral densities, lift force due to curvature, and drag coefficients are quantified and discussed.     

The biokinetic behavior of Tc in juvenile Coho Salmon, Oncorhynchus kisutch (Walbaum)

Juvenile coho salmon, Onchorynchus kisutch, were exposed to ^95mTc in both saltwater and freshwater to study the biokinetic behavior of this element in an anadromous fish. In freshwater, equilibrium whole-body concentration factors (CF₅) ranged from 28 to 32 in two separate experiments, in sharp contrast to an equilibriumCF of < 5 in saltwater. While the uptake kinetics were unimodal in saltwater, in freshwater, biomodal uptake kinetics were observed.Technetium-95m retention was biphasic in freshwater depuration experiments, an initial rapid loss of 21% to 26% of the steady-state activity with an elimination half-life of 3 to 5 days was followed by a slower loss rate, with a whole-body elimination half-life ranging from 23 to 33 days. In saltwater, retention was monophasic with an elimination half-life of 5–16 days. Dramatic decreases in ^95mTc body burdens when freshwater-labeled fish are transferred to Tc-labeled saltwater indicate that the changes in physiology accompanying saltwater acclimation lead to the loss of ^95mTc.     

Interstitial water chemistry of villefranche bay sediments: Trace metal diagenesis

Pore water aliquots were taken with an in situ close interval sampler: the “Peeper”.We report here the pore water concentration profiles of TCO₂, SO₄, TH₂S, Ca and the trace metals Mn, Cu, Pb, Cd and Cr from sediments of a relatively polluted area, the Villefranche Bay, on the French Riviera (close to Nice).We investigated the major ion concentrations in order to establish geochemical mass balances of organic matter oxidation. ΔTCO₂/ΔSO₄ was <−2.0, reflecting the precipitation of calcite as confirmed by the calcium profile. Reduction of sulfate led to increasing sulfide concentrations with depth.Trace metal interstitial water concentrations decreased from 63 to 5 nM, 18 to 4 nM and 6.6 to less than 2 nM for Cu, Pb and Cr, respectively. Cd showed a different pattern with top and deep values of 0.7 nM and a minimum of 0.27 nM.Thermodynamic calculations were performed which suggest the potential formation of mineral phases such as sulfides.