Nonlinear properties of laboratory wind waves at energy containing frequencies

Nonlinear properties of wind waves in a wind-wave tunnel are investigated by measuring the probability density distribution of surface elevation. The surface elevation distribution of raw records are found to have a positive skewness (K ₃=0.21 to 0.43) and a negative kurtosis (K ₄=–0.74 to –0.41) with magnitude depending of fetch and wind speed. The values of skewness are in qualitative agreement with a prediction of the weak interaction theory for a random wave field incorporating the effects of second harmonics (Tayfun, 1980), but the values of kurtosis are different in sign from the prediction.To examine the nonlinear properties of energy containing components, higher harmonic components are excluded from the wave records by using a kind of a band-pass filter. The surface elevation distributions of the filtered waves show a sharp decrease in skewness , but the distributions remain highly non-Gaussian with a large negative kurtosis almost independent of the fetch and wind speed . It is concluded that the negative kurtosis is due to the non-random character of the phase and amplitude among the energy containing components, and that nonlinear interactions occur amongst the energy containing frequencies.     

Bathymetry, biota and sediments on the Hirota Reef, Tane-ga-shima – the northernmost coral reef in the Ryukyu Islands

Abstract Investigations were conducted on bathymetry, reef biota and sediments on the Hirota Reef, Tane‐ga‐shima, North Ryukyus, near the northern limit for coral‐reef formation. A bathymetric profile from shore to the reef edge was depicted along an approximately 420‐m transect on the Hirota Coast of this island. A total of 20 quadrats (1 m × 1 m) were analyzed along the profile at 10‐ or 20‐m intervals to clarify distribution of macrobenthos inhabiting the reef. The Hirota Reef is divided into four geomorphologic zones according to their depth, gradient, surface roughness, substrate and characteristic macrobenthos. They are, from shore to offshore, shallow lagoon, seaward reef flat, reef edge and reef slope. The shallow lagoon comprises a shoreward depression (∼160 m wide on the transect) with a sand/gravel bottom that inclines gently toward offshore, and a seaward patch zone (∼70 m wide). The patches (<2 m high) are covered with fleshy algae, coralline algae and hermatypic corals. The seaward reef flat (∼190 m wide) is a flat plane that is constructed by biogenic carbonates and is covered with turf algae, with hermatypic corals scattered. Although the seaward reef flat of the Hirota Reef cannot be differentiated into different geomorphologic zones, similar seaward reef flat areas in the Central and South Ryukyus can be clearly subdivided into inner reef flat, reef crest and outer reef flat. This difference may be attributed to a lower reef growth rate and/or the later reef formation of the Hirota Reef in Holocene time than the southern examples. The coral fauna on the Hirota Reef is delineated by low diversity and characterized by taxa typical of high‐latitude, non‐reefal communities. The algal flora consists of tropical to subtropical species associated with warm‐temperate species. These faunal and floral characteristics may be related largely to lower water temperature in Tane‐ga‐shima than those in typical coral‐reef regions.     

High-frequency earthquakes at White Island volcano, New Zealand: insights into the shallow structure of a volcano-hydrothermal system

Volcano-tectonic earthquakes at White Island are concentrated in a single seismically active zone, southeast of the active vents and at depths of less than 1 km. A few deeper earthquakes also occur beneath the active vents. A composite focal mechanism indicates that the stress regime in the shallow seismic zone is N-S extensional. Shallow seismicity occurs within the main volume of the volcano-hydrothermal system that underlies the Main Crater floor, and we interpret this as a region where the rocks have been weakened by past magmatic intrusions, elevated pore fluid pressure and physico-chemical effects of acid volcanic fluids, thereby allowing preferential seismic failure. Brittle seismic failure within this region requires a temperature less than about 400 °C, and implies high horizontal temperature gradients close to the active craters and fumaroles. Spasmodic bursts events are also a result of brittle failure, but occur close to zones of significant permeability in response to changes in local fluid pressure.     

Sealevel history recorded in the Pleistocene carbonate sequence in IODP Hole 310‐M0005D,off Tahiti

Material cored during the Integrated Ocean Drilling Program (IODP) Expedition 310 ‘Tahiti Sea Level’ revealed that the fossil reef systems around Tahiti are composed of two major stratigraphic sequences: (i) a last deglacial sequence; and (ii) an older Pleistocene sequence. The older Pleistocene carbonate sequence is composed of reef deposits associated with volcaniclastic sediments and was preserved in Hole 310‐M0005D drilled off Maraa. Within an approximately 70‐m‐thick older Pleistocene sequence (33.22–101.93 m below seafloor; 92.85–161.56 m below present sealevel) in this hole, 11 depositional units are defined by lithological changes, sedimentological features, and paleontological characteristics and are numbered sequentially from the top of the hole downward (Subunits P1–P11). Paleowater depths inferred from nongeniculate coralline algae, combined with those determined by using corals and larger foraminifers, suggest two major sealevel rises during the deposition of the older Pleistocene sequence. Of these, the second sealevel rise is associated with an intervening sealevel drop. It is likely that the second sealevel rise corresponds to that during Termination II (TII, the penultimate deglaciation, from Marine Isotope Stages 6 to 5e). Therefore, the intervening sealevel drop can be correlated with that known as the ‘sealevel reversal’ during TII. Because there are limited data on the Pleistocene reef systems in the tropical South Pacific Ocean, this study provides important information about Pleistocene sealevel history, the evolution of coral reef ecosystems, and the responses of coral reefs to Quaternary climate changes.     

Contribution of Raman scattering to upward irradiance in the sea

Measurements of underwater irradiance revealed that the vertical attenuance in upward irradiance for wavelengths above 520 nm decreased with increasing depth, while the attenuance in the remaining wavelength region and also the attenuance in the downward irradiance in the whole wavelength range kept almost constant values. In this paper, it is suggested that the decrease in the attenuance for the upward irradiance above 520 nm can be ascribed to the Raman scattering of water molecules excited by the intense blue-green light in the downward irradiance. The pure water Raman scattering function at a scattering angle of 90° is measured and the results are used for the theoretical computation of upward irradiance generated by Raman scattering. Then, the difference between observed upward irradiance and the upward irradiance obtained by extrapolation from that in the shallow layers is computed under the assumption of constant irradiance attenuance. Since this difference is expected to represent the upward irradiance generated by Raman scattering, its value is compared with the upward irradiance due to Raman scattering obtained by theoretical computation. The similarity between the two upward irradiances so evaluated supports the view that Raman scattering makes a significant contribution to upward irradiance in the longer wavelength region.     

Estimation of water quality parameters from irradiance reflectance using optical models

In order to evaluate near-surface water quality parameters from spectral irradiance reflectance observed just below the surface, models of both radiative transfer and optical properties of sea water are used. The computed water quality parameters are compared with those determined directly from concurrent surface water samples. In this comparison, efforts have been made to minimize the number of spectral irradiance reflectance used in the computation while ensuring that the computed water quality parameters fit well to the observed ones.The observed water quality parameters were found to be closely represented by those computed from the irradiance reflectance at wavelengths of 400 nm, 440 nm, 510 nm and 600 nm, and the fit is as good as the fit of observed water quality parameters to those computed from the irradiance reflectances at 151 wavelengths located between 400 nm and 700 nm at intervals of 2 nm. This implies that the water quality parameters can be evaluated from at least four radiances observed at high altitude, if the effects of the atmosphere and the sea surface can be correctly removed.     

Experimental study on strong interaction between regular waves and wind waves—I

The interaction between mechanically generated regular waves and wind waves is experimentally investigated in a wind-wave tunnel. It is shown that the growth process of regular waves is divided into the four distinct stages as follows: (1) almost independent coexistence of wind waves and regular waves, (2) attenuation of wind waves with simultaneous growth of regular waves, (3) rapid growth of regular waves after disappearance of wind waves, and (4) transition of regular waves to wind waves after the wave breaking. At the second stage there is an apparent relation between the attenuation of wind waves and the growth of regular waves. This fact suggests that there is some strong nonlinear interactions which transfers energy effectively from wind waves to regular waves.     

Movement of radiocaesium fallout released by the 2011 Fukushima nuclear accident

The moment magnitude (M _w) 9.0 Tohoku-Oki Earthquake occurred on March 11, 2011, generating an unusually large tsunami. The seismic shocks and tsunami inundation severely damaged the Fukushima Daiichi Nuclear Power Plant. Radionuclide emission due to reactor breakdown contaminated wide areas of Fukushima and its surroundings. Heavy rainfall causes runoff across surface soil, and fine soil particles are susceptible to uptake by the flowing water. The high radioactivity of grains suspended in floodwater indicates that radioactive fallout was streamed into rivers in particulate form and transported downstream under high-flow conditions. Here, we investigated the diachronic mode of ¹³⁴Cs and ¹³⁷Cs in central Fukushima, through which the contaminated air mass drifted and caused wet deposition of radionuclides. Stratigraphic measurements of radioactivity in sediment cores is the method employed in this study to determine the basin-wide movement of ¹³⁴Cs and ¹³⁷Cs, to evaluate the significance of the erosion–transportation–accumulation processes on natural decontamination in terrain characterized by steep slopes and high precipitation. Stratigraphic results illustrate the process of fluvial sediment discharge, and the massive deposition of radiocaesium suggests basin-wide movement of fallout during concentrated rainfall. Grain suspension in torrential currents is an important pathway for transportation of radionuclides from land to sea, and the appearance of hotspots on floodplains and the offshore sea floor is the consequence of erosion and transportation under seasonal heavy precipitation. Radioactive horizons occur in offshore sediment columns and thus radiocaesium discharged from the estuary will persist forever under the sea floor if no artificial disturbance occurs.     

Latitudinal changes in larger benthic foraminiferal assemblages in shallow-water reef sediments along the Ryukyu Islands, Japan

Abstract The taxonomic diversity of hermatypic corals decreases with increasing latitude, which correlates with sea‐surface temperatures. However, little is known about latitudinal changes in the taxonomic diversity and biogeographic patterns of larger benthic foraminifera, although their physiological requirements are similar to those of hermatypic corals because of their symbiotic relationships with microalgae. The present study examined how the abundance and taxonomic composition of larger foraminiferal assemblages in shallow‐water reef sediments change with latitude along the Ryukyu Islands (Ryukyus), which are located near the northern limit of coral‐reef distributions in the western Pacific Ocean. Three islands from different latitudes in the Ryukyus were selected to investigate latitudinal changes in larger foraminiferal assemblages: Ishigaki Island (24°20′N, 124°10′E), Kudaka Island (26°09′N, 127°54′E) and Tane‐ga‐shima Island (30°20′N, 131°E). Four sediment samples were taken at each of three topographic sites (beach, shallow lagoon and reef crest) on the reef flat of each island. Foraminiferal tests of a 2.0‐ to 0.5‐mm size fraction were selected, identified and counted. The variations in foraminiferal abundance in reef sediments from three latitudinally different islands exhibit two contrasting trends along reef flats: a shoreward decrease on Ishigaki and Tane‐ga‐shima Islands and a shoreward increase on Kudaka Island. A total of 25, 24 and 13 foraminiferal taxa were identified in Ishigaki, Kudaka and Tane‐ga‐shima Islands, respectively. Baculogypsina sphaerulata, Neorotalia calcar and Amphistegina spp. were dominant (i.e. >3% of foraminiferal assemblages) in the three islands. Calcarina gaudichaudii and Calcarina hispida were common on Ishigaki and Kudaka Islands but were absent on Tane‐ga‐shima Island. Larger foraminiferal assemblages from three different reef‐flat environments on Ishigaki Island can be distinguished, whereas those from the three environments on Kudaka and Tane‐ga‐shima Islands are similar in composition. These latitudinal changes in larger foraminiferal assemblages in reef sediments may possibly be caused by variations in the topography of reef flats, distributions and standing crops of living foraminifers on reef flats, and the northern limit of some calcarinid species in the northern Ryukyus.     

Analysis of ocean color spectra (III)

The spectral measurements of the attenuation coefficient of sea water and the absorption coefficient of suspended particles and of yellow substance were made with a spectrophotometer for the sea waters sampled in Tokyo Bay. These parameters can be used to compute the expected spectral irradiance reflectance. Some relationships between the optical properties of sea water and the concentration of dissolved organic carbon, the dry weight of suspended matter and chlorophyll-a concentration are presented. On the basis of these results, the possibility of modelling the relationship between optical and material properties is discussed.