Sediment Deposition and Resuspension in Mouth Bar Area of the Yangtze Estuary

—A comprehensive analysis is conducted based on observations on topography.tidal current.salinity.suspended sediment and bed load during the years of 1982.1983.1988.1989.1996 and 1997 in theYangtze Estuary.Results show that the deformation of tidal waves is distinct and the sand carrying capaci-ty is large within the mouth bar due to strong tidal currents and large volume of incoming water and sedi-ments.Owing to both temporal and spatial variation of tidal current.deposition and erosion are extremelyactive.In general a change of up to 0.1 m of bottom sediments takes place during a tidal period.The maxi-mum siltation and erosion are around 0.2 m in a spring to neap tides cycle.The riverbed is silted duringflood when there is heavy sediment load.eroded during dry season when sediment load is low.The annualaverage depth of crosion and siltation on the riverbed is around 0.6 m.In particular cases.it may increaseto 1.4 m to 2.4 m at some locations.     

Intercomparison of coastal area morphodynamic models

Five different coastal area morphodynamic models have been set up to run on the same offshore breakwater layout and an intercomparison carried out on the hydrodynamic and morphodynamic output produced by each scheme. In addition, the predicted morphodynamics was checked against available laboratory and field data.It is concluded that the models are capable of producing realistic estimates for the dominant morphodynamic features associated with offshore breakwaters. Coupling of the wave, current and sediment transport components of each scheme is shown to yield bathymetry which attains a state of equilibrium, unlike models which are based on the initial transport field only.     

A phase-resolving cross shore sediment transport model for beach profile evolution

A phase-resolving wave transformation module is combined with an intra-wave sediment transport module to calculate the on-/offshore sediment transport rates. The wave module is based on the Boussinesq equations extended into the surf zone. The vertical variation of the mean undertow and the intra-wave sediment concentrations are calculated. The net sediment transport rates are calculated, and the equation for conservation of sediment is solved to predict the beach profile evolution. The results of the present paper showed that the undertow contribution to the sediment transport rates is not dominating in all parts of the surf zone, even for eroding beaches, suggesting that other contributions should not be neglected. The present model also showed that for the same offshore wave energy the time series of the oscillatory motion is important and that the effect of wave groups cannot be disregarded.     

Harmonic generation past a submerged porous step

Experiments were conducted in a wave flume to study the differences between harmonic evolution of monochromatic waves as they propagate over a submerged impermeable or porous step under non-breaking conditions. Results are used as a preliminary analysis to establish some engineering design criteria on harmonic generation on submerged porous structures. The root-mean-squared wave height evolution is also studied and compared to linear models as a first approximation. It is shown that porous structure increases the effective relative depth and decreases the relative wave height, resulting in a lower Ursell number and a lower chance to generate harmonics. The effective water depth over a step as defined in the paper, provides information to evaluate the potential harmonic generation.     

An overview and general results of the Lopez island OBS experiment

The purpose of the experiment was to determine the effects of coupling and bottom currents on ocean bottom seismometers. Twelve operational OBSs, three specially designed three-component systems, and a hydrophone were compared with each other. Unlike seismometers placed on hard rock at land stations, ocean bottom seismometers can be affected by soft sediments (which act as lossy mechanical springs) and by buoyancy. Coupling through soft sediments can modify the response to ground motion much as a low pass filter does, and high buoyancy tends to counteract this effect. These effects are observed in the Lopez data, which consist of signals from mechanical transient tests, cap shots, airgun pulses, and general background noise. The modification of response is pronounced for some instruments and barely noticeable in others. Instruments that stand high in the water relative to their base width tend to be susceptible to rocking motion that shows up as a mechanical cross coupling between horizontal and vertical motion. Correlation of Lopez results with coupling theory suggests that it is possible to design ocean bottom seismometers that will couple well to any sediment. Current levels at the Lopez site (<5 cm s^-1) were too small to produce noticeable effect on any of the instruments; however, the same design criteria that will minimize coupling problems will also lessen problems caused by ocean currents.Hawaii Institute of Geophysics Contribution No. 1171.     

Radium and lead-210 in marine barite

Measurements of ²²⁶Ra and ²¹⁰Pb in barite samples separated from different depths of a piston core from the eastern equatorial Pacific are reported. ²²⁶Ra is enriched in the barite as would be expected from the chemistries of Ra and Ba; the ${}^{226}\text{Ra}\text{Ba}$ ratio centers around 1.5 · 10¹⁴ atoms/mole. The results suggest that barite is concentrating Ra at a rate comparable to its decay rate, viz. 5.78 · 10^?3 yr^?1. The gross ²¹⁰Pb depletion with respect to ²²⁶Ra is indicative of ²²²Rn loss due to the smallness of the barite crystals.     

Water colour index of the Guinean sector of the Atlantic Ocean

The distribution of the colour index is considered in the region bounded by 8–11°N and 13°30–18°30W based on the results of measurements made on board vessels of the Marine Hydrophysical Institute of the Ukrainian SSR Academy of Sciences (MHI) in 1977–1985. Mean values and statistical characteristics are calculated for the colour index variability over one-degree squares. A map of its multi-yearly average distribution is plotted.Translated by M. M. Trufanov.     

Fluid forces on a small cylinder in the presence of a large cylinder in relative oscillatory flow

The present brief paper is intended to show that the fluid forces on a small cylinder can be considerably magnified when it is in the flow field of a larger cylinder. Two cylinders of unequal diameter are oscillated in a tank of fluid, and the lift and in-line forces on the smaller cylinder are measured when the pair of cylinders is placed at various orientations and spacings.     

Four-dimensional analysis of the variability of hydrophysical fields in the tropical atlantic and on the shelf of guinea

The problem of monitoring of the mesoscale variability of hydrophysical fields in the shelf zone is considered. The usefulness of the data available in regional information centres is discussed. The possibility of monitoring the dynamics of the oceanic fields in the tropical Atlantic encompassing separate observation sites is demonstrated using the oceanographic databank of the scientific research centre (CERESCOR) in Conakry-Rogbane as an example. The results of assimilation of the hydrophysical survey data derived on the shelf in a telescopic model of the region are given.Translated by Mikhail M. Trufanov.