Risk of dike failure due to flow slides

Flow slides may affect the stability of dikes. A flow slide is an instability of a submerged slope caused by liquefaction of loose, (medium) fine sand. Whether a flow slide will occur depends on the properties of the sand, which are a function of its density, and the geometry of the slope, as determined by wave and current induced scour and sedimentation. The influence of sand properties and the geometry parameters on the risk of flow slides are discussed. The application of a flow slide prediction method to an example and a risk analysis is briefly discussed.     

The status of geological dredging techniques

Scientific sea-floor dredging is currently used in marine geology primarily by the hard-rock community interested in the recovery of basement rock samples from the unsedimented deep ocean floor. The technique has generally been eclipsed by ocean drilling for recovery of sedimentary rocks, because of perceived uncertainties in the location of sampling and in the representativeness of recovered material. This contribution reviews dredging equipment currently in use by marine geological institutions and refers to pinger attachments that allow precise information on the behaviour of the dredge to be telemetered back to the ship. We argue that improvements in ship navigation and transponder navigation at the seafloor, when used in conjunction with surface and/or deeply towed sidescan and swathemapping surveys, now allow for considerably less uncertainty on the location of dredge sampling. Refined sorting criteria for dredge hauls are now also available. Recent comparisons of regional sample recovery by ocean drilling and by dredge sampling indicate that the dredge hauls can usefully supplement the drilling data in the construction of sedimentary and tectonic histories of seafloor areas.     

Morphodynamics of a bar-trough surf zone

A field study was made of the distinguishing morphodynamic processes operating in a surf zone which perennially exhibits accentuated bar-trough topography (the “longshore-bar-trough” and “rhytmic-bar-and-beach” states as described by Wright and Short, 1984). Characteristic features of the morphology include a shallow bar with a steep shoreward face, a deep trough, and a steep beach face. This morphology, which is favored by moderate breaker heights and small tidal ranges, strongly controls the coupled suite of hydrodynamic processes. In contrast to fully dissipative surf zones, the bar-trough surf zone is not at all saturated and oscillations at incident wave frequency remain dominant from the break point to the subaerial beach. The degree of incident wave groupiness does not change appreciably across the surf zone. Infragravity standing waves which, in dissipative surf zones, dominate the inshore energy, remain energetically secondary and occur at higher frequencies in the bar trough surf zone. Analyses of the field data combined with numerical simulations of leaky mode and edge wave nodal—antinodal positions over observed surf-zone profiles, indicate that the frequencies which prevail are favored by the resonant condition of antinodes over the bar and nodes in the trough. Standing waves which would have nodes over the bar are suppressed. Sediment resuspension in the surf zone appears to be largely attributable to the incident waves which are the main source of bed shear stress. In addition, the extra near-bottom eddy viscosity provided by the reformed, non-breaking waves traversing the trough significantly affects the vertical velocity profile of the longshore current. Whereas the bar is highly mobile in terms of onshore—offshore migration rates, the beach face and inner regions of the trough are remarkably stable over time.     

Morphology and tectonics of the Galapagos Triple Junction

We describe the results of GLORIA and SEABEAM surveys, supplemented by other marine geophysical data, of the Galapagos Triple Junction where the Pacific, Cocos and Nazca plates meet. The data allowed detailed topographic and tectonic maps of the area to be produced. We located each spreading axis with a precision of about 1 km. All three plate boundaries change character as the triple junction is approached to take on morphologies typical of slower spreading axes: the fast-spreading East Pacific Rise develops the morphology of a medium-spreading rise, and the medium-spreading Cocos-Nazca Rise takes on the appearance of a slow-spreading ridge. The axis of the East Pacific Rise was found to be completely continuous throughout the survey area, where it runs along the 102°05 W meridian. The Cocos-Nazca axis, however, fails to meet it, leaving a 20-km-wide band of apparently normal East Pacific Rise crust between its tip and the East Pacific Rise axis. As a consequence there must be considerable intra-plate deformation within the Cocos and Nazca plates. A further 40 km of the Cocos-Nazca axis is characterised by oblique faulting that we interpret to be a sign of rifting of pre-existing East Pacific Rise crust. We infer that true sea-floor spreading on the Cocos-Nazca axis does not begin until 60 km east of the East Pacific Rise axis. Other areas of similar oblique faulting occur on the Pacific plate west of the triple junction and along the rough-smooth boundaries of the Galapagos Gore. We present a model involving intermittent rifting, rift propagation, and sea-floor spreading, to explain these observations.     

Cd, Pb, Cu, Ni and Co distribution in the German Bight

Cd, Pb and Cu concentrations, dissolved and total, have been determined in the German Bight. In 1975, 1977, 1978, 1980 and 1983 water samples were collected at 215 sampling stations. In the 1983 mission samples were also analysed for Ni and Co. The samples were filtered and acidified immediately after collection. Analysis was performed by voltammetry.The analytical data indicate that a net portion of the Cd, the Weser being a distinct source for it, will cross the estuarine zone. Open sea Cd levels in the German Bight are about a factor 10 higher than North Atlantic values. Pb, being transported mainly with the suspended particulate phase (up to 99.5%), is better eliminated by sedimentation in the estuaries. Ni and Cu occur mainly in the dissolved phase. Pollution by Co is distinct in the Elbe, but the output is rapidly diluted to background contents below 10 ng kg⁻¹. An interpretation of the results from the different years yields a rather steady state situation in the German Bight.     

Wave drift enhancement effects in multi column structures

A theoretical assessment is made of mean wave drift forces on groups of vertical circular cylinders, such as the columns of a floating offshore platform. A complete analytical solution is obtained for two cylinders extending from seabed to free surface, and a long wave approximation is found to provide reliable predictions of the drift force in line with the waves at low frequencies. For moderate separation between the two cylinders, this force is found to tend at low frequencies to a value four times the force on an isolated cylinder.A numerical method is employed to study two surface piercing cylinders truncated below the free surface, and an arrangement of four vertical cylinders characteristic of a floating offshore platform. The mean vertical drift force is found to be reasonably well approximated, over the frequency range of practical interest, by the force on an individual cylinder considered in isolation multiplied by the number of cylinders in the group. Interaction effects, however, have a profound influence on the total horizontal drift force. At low frequencies this force is found to tend to the force on an isolated cylinder multiplied by the squate of the number of cylinders in the group.     

Three-dimensional Layer-integrated Modelling of Estuarine Flows with Flooding and Drying

Details are given of the refinement and application of a thee-dimensional (3-D) layer-integrated numerical model of tidal circulation, with the aim of simulating severe tidal conditions for practical engineering applications. The mode splitting strategy has been used in the model. A set of depth-integrated 2-D equations are first solved to give the pressure gradient, and the layer-integrated 3-D equations are then solved to obtain the vertical distributions of the flow velocities. Attention has been given to maintaining consistency of the physical quantities derived from the 2-D and 3-D equations. A TWO=layer mixing length turbulence model for the vertical shear stress distribution has been included in the model. Emphasis has been focused on applying the model to a real estuary, which is geometrically complicated and has large tidal ranges giving rise to extensive flooding and drying. The model has been applied to three examples, including: wind-driven flow in a rectangular lake, tidal circulation in a model rectangular harbour, and tidal circulation in a large estuary. Favourable results have been obtained for both the simple and complex flow beds.     

LARGE-SCALE CIRCULATION CONDITIONS AFFECTING THE HURRICANE FORMATION OVER THE NORTH ATLANTIC OCEAN

A contrasting study of the large-scale circulation features responsible for months or seasons with many hurricanes and those with few hurricanes has revealed that the frequency of hurricane formation over the North Atlantic Ocean is enhanced by the following conditions:There exists a well-developed subtropical high-pressure belt displaced to the north; a deep Icelandic low; a stronger-than-normal polar vortex with a deep polar trough dipping far southward along the eastern part of the United States; a dominant high-pressure ridge over western Canada and the United States; and a jet stream displaced northward over these regions. At 200 hPa, an anomalous anticyclonic circulation prevails over the subtropical North Atlantic. A stronger-than-normal upper easterly flow prevails. Positive sea surface temperature anomalies prevailing on a seasonal or long-term basis tend to be favorable for the formation of hurricanes.     

Variation of roughness length of a mobile sand bed in a tidal flow

Velocity profiles, suspended sand concentration, and ripple shapes were measured over the tidal cycle on a mobile bed. Variations in ripple shape or dimensions, and the effects of mobile sediment could not account for the variations in bed roughness length, which increased systematically during the tide from 0.5 to 1.3 cm. The effects of acceleration could be the cause as they would lead to the same pattern of variation, but existing theory does not give the correct magnitude.