Random wave-current interactions in water of varying depth

Refraction of incoherent random gravity waves with currents and bottom topography results in spatial variations in the spectral characteristics of the free surface. Prediction of such variations based on the radiation transfer equation is in a simple analytic form for the case of one dimensional inhomogeneities in currents and topography. This analytic form is examined in terms of two-dimensional wave number- and polar frequency-direction spectra along the associated dynamic and kinematic constraints relevant to wave breaking and reflection. Results are specialized to the simplest case of horizontal shear currents in deep and shallow water with explicit examples to illustrate the relative and combined effects of currents and topography on free surface spectra.     

Long-range sonar views of submarine canyons

Submarine canyons on the northern margin of the Bay of Biscay have been viewed with side-scan sonar at slant ranges carying from 1 km to 22 km. First results indicate the importance of secondary gullying, and that while published charts may show the correct number of canyons the trends are sometimes more oblique to the regional slope than shown (probably fault-controlled). In general the similarity to subaerial fluvial drainage patterns is striking.     

Effect of major ion variations in the marine environment on the specific gravity-conductivity-chlorinity-salinity relationship

Partial equivalent conductances and partial equivalent volumes of the major constituents in seawater were used to evaluate the specific gravity-conductivity-chlorinity-salinity relationships in the marine environment. For example, in the open ocean, the relationships between Cl‰ and both S‰ and specific gravity are valid to within 0.014‰ and 0.014 σ_t, respectively. The relationships between conductivity and S‰ and specific gravity are valid to within 0.006‰ and 0.007 σ_t. In river diluted nearshore areas specific gravity anomalies inferred from Cl‰, can be as great as 0.06 σ_t and 0.04 σ_t when inferred from a conductivity ratio measurement.     

A free air gravity anomaly contour map of the Irish continental margin

Compilation of currently-available gravity data permits the construction of a free-air anomaly contour map of the continental margin west of Ireland (51–54 N). Major elements in the structure of the margin, previously delineated on the basis of seismic reflection and magnetic surveys, are clearly seen on the FAA contour map, notably the Porcupine Seabight Trough, and Porcupine Ridge. However, contrary to earlier ideas, the gravity data imply that the Seabight Trough extends northwards onto the Slyne Ridge; and the Slyne Trough, formerly regarded as northeasterly prolongation of the Seabight Trough, appears to be a discrete, fault-bounded, feature separated from the latter by a basement ridge. East-west gravity profiles are modelled in terms of thinned crust with the Moho at a minimum depth of 15 km beneath the axis of the Seabight Trough. The models tend to support hypotheses invoking formation of the Seabight Trough by simple westward translation of Porcupine Ridge with respect to the Irish Mainland.     

Beach accretion and erosion, Burullus-Gamasa coast, Egypt

Several areas of erosion and accretion were observed along the Burullus-Gamasa beach. The accreted sands are coarser and less sorted than the eroded ones. Differentiation between them could be achieved on the basis of their grain-size fractions, shape of grain-size distribution curves and statistical grain-size parameter relationships.     

Comparison of three oxidation methods used for the analysis of the dissolved organic carbon in seawater

Three methods for the determination of dissolved organic carbon in seawater were compared. Samples were analysed using persulphate oxidation, high-temperature combustion, and ultraviolet photo-oxidation. The dissolved organic carbon content of the seawater samples ranged from 0.6 to 1.6 mg C/I. This study shows that results of high-temperature oxidation and photo-oxidation procedures differ by less than 5%, whereas results with persulphate oxidation are about 15% less than those obtained with the high-temperature oxidation. The relative merits of each of the oxidation techniques for the determination of organic matter in seawater are discussed.     

The sea as a source of atmospheric phosphorus

The geochemical fractionation of phosphorus on the drop produced by bubbles bursting in seawater has been studied using a field sampling system called the Bubble Interfacial Microlayer Sampler (BIMS). The droplets from bursting bubbles were collected on filter samples in Narragansett Bay, Rhode Island during the summer of 1975. Phosphorus was found to be fractionated by the bubble-bursting process. The enrichment factor ranged from 4 to 170. Enrichment was found to increase with decreasing phosphorus concentration at 20 cm depth while it decreases with increasing wind velocity. Enrichment was independent of bubbling depth. Together these facts suggest that the sea-surface microlayer is the source of the phosphorus on the ejected drops. Organic phosphorus on the filter samples was found to be enriched relative to surface-water phosphorus by factors of 100–200, while reactive phosphorus was enriched by factors of only 6–8. This suggests that surface-active organic phosphorus compounds are the source phosphorus in the microlayer.The organic phosphorus content of samples of atmospheric particulates collected over the phosphate-rich upwelling waters near the Peru coast was found to correlate significantly with sea-salt sodium. Enrichments calculated using the average phosphorus concentration of the surface water in this area agree well with the results of the BIMS study. Thus it appears that phosphorus fractionation does occur in nature and may be important in supplying this nutrient to some coastal regions of the world.