Laboratory wave reflection analysis using co-located gages

Most coastal and ocean engineering laboratories employ techniques that use two or three spatially separated wave gages to estimate reflection of irregular waves in two-dimensional wave flumes. This paper presents a frequency domain method for separating incident and reflected wave spectra from co-located gages (gages located on the same vertical line). The technique is based on linear wave theory, and it can be applied to time series of sea surface elevation and horizontal water velocity collected in a vertical array, or it can be used with horizontal and vertical water velocity time series collected at the same point in the water column. Application of the method is limited to those frequencies showing good coherence between time series signals. Outside the range of good coherence, gross inaccuracies occur.The utility of the co-located gage method is illustrated using water velocity data collected in a wave flume with a laser Doppler velocimeter, and the method is validated for the case of complete reflection by a vertical wall. Side-by-side comparison to the spatially-separated wave gage method of Goda and Suzuki (1976) exhibited close agreement for a variety of irregular wave trains being weakly reflected by a mild sloping beach. The co-located gage method is useful in situations where there are spatial variations in the wavelength, such as on a mildly sloping bottom, or in the region close to highly reflective structures where errors arising from spatial variations in characteristic wave parameters would corrupt estimates made using the spatially-separated wave gage method.     

Petrology and mineral chemistry of sedimentary rocks from the Western Solomon Sea

Multichannel seismic reflection profiles recorded in the northern Red Sea show structures that we interpret to be a result of the intrusion of uppermost Miocene salt. We believe that the evaporites are underlaid by attenuated continental crust and the flow of salt is due to renewed faulting of basement in the Pliocene when sea floor spreading began between latitudes 21°N and 15°30°N.     

The effects of oil exploration and production in the northern North Sea: Part 2—microbial biodegradation of hydrocarbons in water and sediments, 1978–1981

The potential of heterotrophs to degrade aromatic hydrocarbons derived from oil in water and sediments in the northern North Sea around the Brent, Beryl, Forties and Murchison oilfields and at a number of stations, from the Forties field to the Firth of Forth, was estimated using 1-¹⁴C naphthalene and 7, 10-¹⁴C benzo(a)pyrene. The degradation of uniformly labelled ¹⁴C mixed 1-amino acids was used as a measure of total heterotrophic activity. Results showed that microorganisms have the potential to degrade the smaller aromatic hydrocarbon molecules rapidly in the water column and in surface sediments. Close to the Beryl platform, where diesel-washed drill cuttings have been continuously dumped, the rate of input of hydrocarbons to the sediment has exceeded the rate of degradation. Mineralization of benzo(a)pyrene, estimated in the sediments only, was minimal. Close to production platforms the biodegradation rate of mixed 1-amino acids showed no increase comparable with that found for naphthalene, suggesting that existing microbial populations had not increased but adapted to degrade oil in water and sediments.     

Recent and Late Holocene environments on the southeastern shelf of the Laptev Sea as inferred from microfossil data

The study of diatoms and benthic foraminifers from the southeastern shelf of the Laptev Sea shows that their most diverse and abundant recent assemblages populate the peripheral underwater part of the Lena River delta representing the marginal filter of the sea. This area is characterized by an intense interaction between the fresh waters of the Siberian rivers and the basin seawater, the Atlantic one included. Local Late Holocene (～last 2300 years) environments reflect the main regional and global paleoclimatic changes, the Medieval Warm Period (～600–1100 years B.P.) and the Little Ice Age (～100–600 years B.P.) inclusive. In addition, the composition and distribution of planktonic foraminifers implies a strong influence of the Atlantic water during the Holocene optimum ～5100–6200 years B.P.     

Variations in age-0 pollock distribution among eastern Bering Sea nursery areas: A comparative study through acoustic indices

Cohort abundance of walleye pollock (Theragra chalcogramma) is subject to strong interannual variation in the eastern Bering Sea, and this variation is known to be determined largely at the age-0 stage. We estimated the spatial distributions and densities of age-0 walleye pollock in five nursery areas around the eastern Bering shelf in three successive years (1997–1999) from acoustic survey data. Concurrently, we calculated estimates of the spatial distribution of euphausiids, a major prey of age-0 walleye pollock, and estimates of spatial overlap of groundfish predators with the age-0 walleye pollock. The analyses showed that all nursery areas had low densities of age-0 walleye pollock in 1997, which ultimately produced the weakest adult year-class. In the intermediate year of 1998, age-0 densities were low to medium, and in 1999, which produced the strongest of the three adult year-classes, all nursery areas had medium to high age-0 walleye pollock densities. Euphausiid distributions had a consistently positive spatial relationship with age-0 walleye pollock. Groundfish predator density ratios were positively related to age-0 walleye pollock density when age-0 walleye pollock were displaced relatively northward. Our results suggest that abundance of age-0 walleye pollock, and hence of adult cohorts in the eastern Bering Sea, can be predictable from a concise set of indicators: the densities of age-0 walleye pollock at nursery areas in mid- to late-summer, their spatial relationship to euphausiids and groundfish predators, and the latitudinal trend of their distributions. The 3 years 1997–1999 had significant differences of physical conditions in the eastern Bering Sea, and represent an advantageous framework for testing these hypotheses.     

Modeling the mesoscale variability in the Adriatic Sea

A new high-resolution (<2 km) version of the DieCAST fourth-accuracy-order model for the ocean circulation is proposed for the study of the general circulation, mesoscale structures, and their variability in the Adriatic Sea. The model uses mean seasonal data on the temperature, salinity, buoyancy fluxes, and wind. The data of the COAMPS system with a 4-km resolution were used for the simulation of the sea response to the effects of various winds: Sirocco, Maestro, and two types of boras. The mean monthly runoffs from 38 rivers and mean daily runoffs from 12 main rivers throughout the year were given in the model. The conditions at the open boundary of the Strait of Otranto were given on the basis of the hierarchy of two coarser models for the Adriatic and Mediterranean seas. Due to the extremely weak dissipation and the high resolution (the mesh size is less than the baroclinic radius of deformation, 5–10 km), the model allows one to trace the development of a baroclinic instability along the Italian coast, to simulate mesoscale structures associated with the instability, and to estimate the scales of the structures. Mesoscale filaments, meanders, mushroom-like currents, fronts, and intrusions known from satellite observations were simulated and explained. The scenario of the anomalous upwelling near the Italian coast observed in the summer of 2003 was also simulated and analyzed.