On the monitoring of the thermal state of the upper ocean

This paper discusses some problems related to the development of systems of global monitoring of the sea surface temperature (SST). The characteristics of the operational SST data are considered and estimations of their accuracy are given. The applications of varoous models to the computation of SST in relation to the development of an oceanographic data assimilation system are reviewed briefly.Translated by Mikhail M. Trufanov.     

Sheet flow and suspension of sand in oscillatory boundary layers

after revisionTime-dependent measurements of flow velocities and sediment concentrations were conducted in a large oscillating water tunnel. The measurements were aimed at the flow and sediment dynamics in and above an oscillatory boundary layer in plane bed and sheet-flow conditions. Two asymmetric waves and one sinusoidal wave were imposed using quartz sand with D₅₀ = 0.21 mm. A new electro-resistance probe with a large resolving power was developed for the measurement of the large sediment concentrations in the sheet-flow layer. The measurements revealed a three layer transport system consisting of a pick-up/deposition layer, an upper sheet flow layer and a suspension layer.In the asymmetric wave cases the total net transport was directed “onshore” and was mainly concentrated in the thin sheet flow layer (< 0.5 cm) at the bed. A small net sediment flux was directed “offhore” in the upper suspension layer. The measured flow velocities, sediment concentrations and sedimenl fluxes showed a good qualitative agreement with the results of a (numerical) 1DV boundary-layer flow and transport model. Although the model did not describe all the observed processes in the sheet-flow and suspension layer, the computational results showed a reasonable agreement with measured net transport rates in a wide range of asymmetric wave conditions.     

A calibration of the Bagnold beach equation

A simple sand trap is used to measure swash and backwash bedload transport rates on intertidal profiles. Data from sixty-eight beach experiments are used to calculate a mean value of 12.78 kg m^?4s^?2 for the calibration coefficient in the Bagnold beach equation.     

The linearisation of three dimensional drag force in random seas with current

A frame invariant linearisation method for three-dimensional drag force in random seas with current is presented. Numerical results are compared with those obtained from a commonly used linearisation method which is based on a non-frame invariant approximation to the drag force. Significant differences are discovered and the present method is found to show closer agreement with computed time histories of the true drag force.     

Dynamics of an elastically moored floating body by the three-dimensional infinite element method

The three-dimensional problem of the dynamics of a moored floating object under the action of regular waves is solved numerically as a boundary value problem by use of the finite-infinite element method. The cross-sectional shape of the floating body and the mooring arrangements may all be arbitrary. The mathematical formulations of the problem and procedures of the numerical method are presented in this paper. A corresponding computer program WALOAD has been developed, which is capable of computing wave forces on fixed and floating structures. Numerical computations using this program could give very accurate results, even though rather coarse meshes were used. The program is easy to use and is readily applicable in many practical situations.     

Approaches to the study of cheniers along the coastline of the Soviet Union

With the very extensive coastline in the north and northeast and the relatively shorter coastlines in the south, cheniers in the USSR can occur in a great variety of climatological conditions ranging from subarctic to subtropical. Cheniers in the USSR have been studied since approximately 1900, the investigations being mainly concerned with the palaeogeographical aspects. Since the 1960's, investigations have focussed on contemporary morphodynamics. Chenier formation appears to depend largely on the relative influence that marine and fluvial factors have on the formation of marginal deltaic plains. Research in this field is briefly reviewed.     

Descriptive Analysis and Classification of Benthic Communities in Some Mediterranean Coastal Lagoons (Central Italy)

Abstract. Benthic samples were taken seasonally at 32 stations in five coastal lagoons of Central Italy (Fogliano, Monaci, Caprolace, Fondi, and Lungo) during a two-year period (1982–1984). Composition and distribution of benthic populations in each lagoon as well as seasonal trends of species richness, density, diversity, and redundancy are presented and discussed.
The faunal differentiation appeared to be mainly due to the different degree of water exchange, both with marine and continental systems.     

Theoretical wind wave frequency spectra in shallow water

The method developed by Wen et al. (1988 a) for deriving theoretical wind wave frequency spectrum in deep water is extended to the case of water of finite depth, in which a parameter η=H/d is introduced, where H and d represent the average wave height and water depth respectively. The derived spectra reduce to those in deep water when η=0. The case of η=1/2 corresponds to waves impending to break because of the effect of the bottom. Simplified forms of spectra are given. The theoretical results agree with the observed spectra well.     

Trace metals in selected organisms from the Adriatic sea

Extensive surveys were made to establish the concentrations of several metals (Zn, Cd, Pb, Cu and Hg) in various marine organisms from different parts of the Adriatic Sea in the period from 1979 to 1985. The results obtained are based on analyses which were performed in conjunction with carefully tested procedures. Proper sampling, sample storage, treatment of samples and final analytical determination has excluded artefacts which would influence the accuracy, or cause contamination and/or trace metal losses.The metal concentrations in shellfish from the coastal areas of the Adriatic Sea are in the range of the lowest values obtained for similar organisms from other localities throughout the Mediterranean Sea. Special attention has been paid to the anthropogenic influence on trace metal concentrations in organisms living in the vicinity of domestic sewage and/or industrial waste-water outflows.     

Effects of taxonomic uncertainty on species diversity indices

As a result of taxonomic uncertainty, generic and higher taxonomic ranks (family, order, class or phylum) are often treated as units in calculating diversity indices, instead of species. In this paper, the errors introduced by such practices are examined for various diversity indices (Shannon - Wiener Index, Maximum Information Index, Evenness, Margalef's Species Richness Index and Hurlbert's Probability of Interspecific Encounter). The use of higher taxonomic ranks may invalidate comparison of diversity indices. In a single study, substantial error and erroneous conclusion may arise, even if consistent practices are adopted.