On the form of crests in limiting gravity waves

Properties of surface singularities and the form of wave crests of limiting gravity waves in steady-state flows of an ideal liquid are considered by analyzing the kinematic boundary condition. It is shown that, for rotational waves, the angle at the crest can have any value from 0° to 180°, while it has the only value 90° in the case of irrotational waves. Two inferences are made from Bernoulli’s integral and the properties of singularities: (i) the Stokes wave is a rotational wave and (ii) no angular points can appear on the profiles of capillary-gravity and capillary waves.     

Experiments on full-scale wave impact pressures

Measurements of full-scale wave impact pressures on seawalls have been made over a period of four years, up to and including the winter of 1980/1981, on seawalls in the South and West of England. This investigation is the first of its kind to be carried out in the U.K. using modern measuring and recording techniques and has produced significantly more wave impact pressure data than all previous full-scale investigations.Poor correlation was found between the semi-empirical equations at present used to estimate wave impact pressures and the prototype data obtained during this investigation. A rational expression for the estimation of wave impact pressures on coastal structures has thus been derived based on the local wave parameters at impact and includes a coefficient related to the percentage of air entrained in the incident wave.     

Plane state of stress and transverse oscillations of a simply supported rectangular plate

This paper deals with a general discussion of the subject matter. Recent literature is analyzed including some incorrect treatments of particular cases. Finally, a variational solution is obtained for the case where a linear distribution of stresses is applied to the plate boundaries. The lower natural frequencies are then tabulated as a function of the governing geometric and mechanical parameters.     

Breaking wave impact on vertical and sloping coastal structures

The results of laboratory experiments on the maximum and bottom impact pressures from waves breaking directly on vertical and sloping faced coastal structures are presented. Direct wave breaking on a wall is classified as early, late, and perfect breaking. Although the present study is aimed at dealing with the type of impact resulting from the perfect breaking, to some extent the occurrence of early and late breaking are unavoidable. The wave impact pressures, therefore, have a random nature of variation from impact-to-impact under the same conditions. The maximum and bottom impact pressures on walls are treated statistically. The effects of the wall angle and foreshore slope on these two quantities are examined. The results show that for practical applications, the still-water level can be taken as the acting place for the maximum impact pressure on the wall. Simultaneous impact pressure distribution below and above still-water level may be approximated as parabolic and linear, respectively. Finally, using a wall deflection criterion, a water depth region in front of the wall is defined, where the breaking wave forces may reach a critical level.     

The effect of human use of sandy beaches on developmental stability of Talitrus saltator (Montagu, 1808) (Crustacea, Amphipoda). A study on fluctuating asymmetry

In recent years, there has been an increasing intensity of human use of coastal areas in Galicia (NW Spain). Actually, there is great concern about rapid and unplanned urban and industrial development on certain locations, as this can generate adverse impacts on those areas. In this study, we selected three sandy beaches along the Galician coast (Chanteiro, Insuela and Valieros) facing different levels of anthropic pressure, and we analysed Talitrus saltator individuals with the aim of elucidating whether anthropogenic pressures on beaches such as tourism or pollution have an influence on the incidence of morphological developmental alterations in sandhoppers in the field. Specifically, levels of fluctuating asymmetry were selected as indicators of environmental stress. Results of two sampling dates (May and September) show that individuals collected at the most touristy and polluted beach were those showing the highest asymmetry values, although results were only statistically significant for samples collected during spring. Results are in accordance with the hypothesis that beach management and pollution reduce symmetry in sandhoppers living in altered beaches.