Analytically derived wind-wave directional spectrum part 1. Derivation of the spectrum

In contrast with the usual method to obtain the wind-wave directional spectrum by multiplying the frequency spectrum with an empirical directional function, the authors attempt to derive analytically the directional spectrum by adopting proper spectral form and using effective parameters, namely, the zero order momentm ₀ of the wind-wave frequency spectrumS(), its peak frequency ₀ and the so-called peakness factorP=₀ S(₀)/m ₀, where is angular frequency. The directional spectrum is given in a form of frequency spectrum for each direction. The spectral directionality depends on, in addition to frequency, the wind-wave growth status, for the peakness factorP as introduced by the authors previously is a measure of the wave development stage. The salient features of the directional spectrum, comparison with existing formulas and the verification of the spectrum by observational data are to be given in the Part 2 of the paper.Project supported by the National Natural Science Foundation of China.     

1976年夏季东海陆架区浮游植物生态的研究

关于东海浮游植物,虽然国内、外都有人进行过一些调査研究,取得一些成果,但因调查时间较短或调查范围較小所获资料不全,都未能代表东海浮游植物的全貌。中国科学院海洋研究所继全国海洋综合调査之后,自1976年夏季又在东海陆架区进行了综合调查。这次调查，分析了东海浮游植物的个体数量和种数的分布状况,讨论了其主要种类的生态性质、群落组成和它们与水文环境的关系,对东海浮游植物的生态状况有了进一步了解。 1976年夏季在东海陆架区进行了两次(6月25日至7月23日和8月27日至9月21日)调查,调查范围南到北纬26°30′,东到东经127°,在沿纬度安排的6个断面共44个测站上(第一航次还在黄海南部增加一斜断面),分別进行了水文观测,并用网目为64平方微米的小型浮游生物网(Juday phytoplankton net),从水底到表面垂直拖网进行浮游植物采样,以个体计数法计数分析。     

Gill surface architecture of mullet, Mugil soiuy (Basilewsky): A scanning electron microscope study

Specimens of Mugil soiuy were collected from the coastal waters of Bohai Sea in Tianjin. The gillfilaments were cut with fine scissors and soaked for 24h in a fixative consisting of 2.5% glutaralde-hyde in 0.1 mol l~(-1) phosporic acid buffer. After three washes in a buffer solution the tissue was fixedin a mixture of 1% osmium tetraoxide at 4℃ for 1h. The tissue was dehydrated in graded ethandethanols and dried. The tissue was examined and photographed with an SEM at an accelerating voltage     

银川盆地中更新世以来的孢粉记录及古气候研究

银川盆地中更新世以来的孢粉记录及据此所重建的古气候参数，揭示了该区中更新世以来的古气候演变特征，其演变经过了温湿→凉湿→温和→冷湿→温干→凉较湿→冷湿→温干→凉润→温较干→温干的变化，并与新疆地区，黄土高原以及深海δ^18O曲线进行了对比，结果表明，各地的古环境变化大致同步，该区由于位置靠西，邻近沙漠，最近地质历史时期的区域性干旱特色明显。     

中国近海海水中几种微量金属离子的分布研究

中国近海海水中的锌等微量元素，尚未进行过较为广泛而可靠的分布研究。极为零星的资料，还是近几年来在沿岸进行污染调查时，用陈旧的方法测定的。 世界海洋海水中微量元素的含量，不同文献报道的数据，常有一定的差别。这是自然变化，抑方法误差(包括所测形态)，是值得研究的。 本文采用单池示差反向极谱法，比较广泛而可靠地研究了中国近海海水中,锌等微量，元素的离子(和不稳定络合物)的地球化学分布。测定锌、铅、铜、镉时，样品不加任何试剂，因而避免了元素存在形态的转移及被测离子的带入或损失。     

Atmospheric forcing of fine-sand transport on a low-energy inner shelf: south-central Louisiana,USA

Hydrodynamic and sediment transport measurements from instrumentation deployed during a 54-day winter period at two sites on the Louisiana inner shelf are presented. Strong extratropical storms, with wind speeds of 7.8 to 15.1 m s^-1, were the dominant forcing mechanism during the study. These typically caused mean oscillatory flows and shear velocities about 33% higher than fair weather (averaging 12.3 and 3.2 cm s^-1 at the landward site, and 11.4 and 2.7 cm s^-1 at the seaward site, respectively). These responses were coupled with mean near-bottom currents more than twice as strong as during fair weather (10.3 and 7.5 cm s^-1 at the landward and seaward sites, respectively). These flowed in approximately the same direction as the veering wind, causing a net offshore transport of fine sand. Weak storms were responsible for little sediment transport whereas during fair weather, onshore sand transport of approximately 25-75% of the storm values appears to have occurred. This contradicts previous predictions of negligible fair-weather sediment movement on this inner shelf.     

Theoretical wind wave frequency spectra in deep water——Ⅰ. Form of spectrum

In this part ot the paper theoretical wind-wave spectra nave been derived oy (I) expressing the spectrum in series composed of exponential terms; (2) assuming that the spectrum satisfies a high order linear ordinary differential equation; (3) introducing proper parameters in the spectrum; and (4) making use of some known charateristics of wind-wave spectrum, for instance, the law governing the equilibrium range. The spectrum obtained contains the zero order moment of the spectrum m0, the peak frequency ω0 and the ratio R =ω/ω0 (ω being the mean zero-crossing frequency) as parameters. The shape of the nondimensional spectrum S(ω) = ω0S(ω)/m0(ω=ω/ω0) changes with R and theoretically reduces to a Dirac delta function δ(ω-1) when R = 1. A spectrum of simplified form is given for practical uses, in which R is replaced by a peakness factor P=S(1).     

Tectonic control over topography and channel sedimentation across the forearc slope of the southern Kurile Trench

A high-resolution seismic survey covering more than 2,000 km² has revealed the processes responsible for the slope morphology and channel sedimentation across the forearc slope-basin of the Kurile Arc–NE Japan Arc collision zone, offshore from Tokachi (Hokkaido, Japan). The dominant slope contours parallel the trench but, in the middle and lower reaches of the southern slope, contours are convex-shaped with an offshore trend. This sector of the slope is traversed diagonally by the Hiroo submarine channel. The offshore-trending convex contours and the channel course have developed through the interplay of tectonic and sedimentary processes, including the development of anticlines, anticline-induced lobe sedimentation and channel avulsion. In its upper reaches, the channel is restricted by a topographic low associated with NNW–SSE-trending anticlines which developed within the upper and middle slope sectors during late Miocene uplift. The uplift timing and trend of these anticlines indicate that they resulted from collision, the channel sedimentology and slope morphology of the middle and lower slopes having been influenced by Pliocene uplift of NE–SW-trending anticlines. The trends of these anticlines parallel those of the Kurile Trench. The Pliocene and early Pleistocene strata of the middle and lower slopes consist of ponded lobe sediments deposited along the palaeo-Hiroo submarine channel on the landward side of the anticlines. As a lobe pile accumulated, the channel thalweg shifted to the north of the stack, allowing the channel to bypass the topographic high formed by the growing stack. Thick levee deposits built up along the channel course during the late Pleistocene and Holocene. These levees, along with the Pliocene and early Pleistocene lobes, are reflected in the present-day sigmoid-shaped, convex offshore-trending contours. Thus, the interplay of subduction- and collision-related anticlines, tectonic-related channel ponding, and avulsion has contributed to the slope morphology of the southern Kurile Trench.     

Remote estimation of surficial seafloor properties through the application Angular Range Analysis to multibeam sonar data

The variation of the backscatter strength with the angle of incidence is an intrinsic property of the seafloor, which can be used in methods for acoustic seafloor characterization. Although multibeam sonars acquire backscatter over a wide range of incidence angles, the angular information is normally neglected during standard backscatter processing and mosaicking. An approach called Angular Range Analysis has been developed to preserve the backscatter angular information, and use it for remote estimation of seafloor properties. Angular Range Analysis starts with the beam-by-beam time-series of acoustic backscatter provided by the multibeam sonar and then corrects the backscatter for seafloor slope, beam pattern, time varying and angle varying gains, and area of insonification. Subsequently a series of parameters are calculated from the stacking of consecutive time series over a spatial scale that approximates half of the swath width. Based on these calculated parameters and the inversion of an acoustic backscatter model, we estimate the acoustic impedance and the roughness of the insonified area on the seafloor. In the process of this inversion, the behavior of the model parameters is constrained by established inter-property relationships. The approach has been tested using a 300 kHz Simrad EM3000 multibeam sonar in Little Bay, NH. Impedance estimates are compared to in situ measurements of sound speed. The comparison shows a very good correlation, indicating the potential of this approach for robust seafloor characterization.     

4D seismic time-lapse monitoring of an active cold vent,northern Cascadia margin

Two single-channel seismic (SCS) data sets collected in 2000 and 2005 were used for a four-dimensional (4D) time-lapse analysis of an active cold vent (Bullseye Vent). The data set acquired in 2000 serves as a reference in the applied processing sequence. The 4D processing sequence utilizes time- and phase-matching, gain adjustments and shaping filters to transform the 2005 data set so that it is most comparable to the conditions under which the 2000 data were acquired. The cold vent is characterized by seismic blanking, which is a result of the presence of gas hydrate in the subsurface either within coarser-grained turbidite sands or in fractures, as well as free gas trapped in these fracture systems. The area of blanking was defined using the seismic attributes instantaneous amplitude and similarity. Several areas were identified where blanking was reduced in 2005 relative to 2000. But most of the centre of Bullseye Vent and the area around it were seen to be characterized by intensified blanking in 2005. Tracing these areas of intensified blanking through the three-dimensional (3D) seismic volume defined several apparent new flow pathways that were not seen in the 2000 data, which are interpreted as newly generated fractures/faults for upward fluid migration. Intensified blanking is interpreted as a result of new formation of gas hydrate in the subsurface along new fracture pathways. Areas with reduced blanking may be zones where formerly plugged fractures that had trapped some free gas may have been opened and free gas was liberated.