Examination of empirical formulas for wave shoaling and breaking on steep slopes

Estimation of the wave height transformation of shoaling and breaking is essential for the nearshore hydrodynamics and the design of coastal structures. Many empirical formulas have been well recognized to the wave height transformation, but most of them were only applicable for gentle slopes. This paper reports the experimental results of wave shoaling and breaking over the steep slopes to examine the applicability of the previous empirical formulas. Two steep bottom slopes of 1/3 and 1/5, and one gentle slope of 1/10 were conducted in the present experiments. Experimental results show that the shoaling distance of steep slopes become short and the surface waves may be partially reflected from the steep bottom, thus the estimation of wave shoaling using the well-known previous formula did not conform completely to the experimental results. The previous empirical formulas for the wave breaking criteria were also examined, and the modified equations to the steep beaches were proposed in this work. A numerical model was finally adopted to calculate the wave height transformation in the surf zone by introducing the modified breaking index.     

副渔获物对渔业资源的影响及其减少方法的探讨

由于渔具不同的选择性和多鱼种鱼类共栖 ,人们在对目标种类进行捕捞时 ,不可避免地产生副渔获物及其抛弃。由于渔业资源的下降和人们对海洋环境保护意识的加强 ,副渔获物及其抛弃问题日益成为人们关注的焦点。本文对世界范围内的渔业活动所产生的副渔获物进行分析 ,根据副渔获物的种类、被抛弃情况和原因以及对渔业资源的影响 ,提出了减少副渔获物和抛弃的方法。     

Jellyfish patch formation investigated by aerial photography and drifter experiment

Jellyfish patch formation is investigated by conducting a drifter experiment combined with aerial photography of a sustained patch of the moon jellyfish in Hokezu Bay, Japan. Jellyfish patches are aggregations of individuals that are caused by a combination of swimming (active influence) and advection by currents (passive influence). The drifter experiment involved the injection of 49 drifters around a distinct surface patch of jellyfish within an area of approximately 300 m × 300 m. The drifters’ motion, caused only by the passive influence, was recorded in a series of 38 aerial photographs taken over approximately 1 h. The ambient uniform current field larger than the patch scale was estimated from the movement of the centroid position of drifters, while the distribution of horizontal divergence and relative vorticity around the patch was estimated from the time-derivative in areas of triangles formed by the drifters. The centroid positions of both drifters and patches moved stably toward the bay head at different speeds. The difference vector between the patch and drifter centroids was directed to the sun, and was opposite to the ambient current. The distributions of vorticity and divergence around patches exhibited inhomogeneity within the patch scale, and the drifters in this nonuniform current field aggregated near the convergence area within 1 h. The results suggest that horizontal patch formation is predominantly influenced by passive factors at the surface of Hokezu Bay. Furthermore, the upward swimming against downwelling may make sustained patch in surface layer.     

虾池的溶解氧含量及其补充量和消耗量

对对虾养殖池塘溶解氧含量及其收支情况的研究结果表明，虾池DO值具有明显的季节和昼夜变化。浮游植物光合作用是虾池溶解氧补充的主要来源，夏季最高可超过5mg／（dm3·d）。养殖后期对虾的耗氧量占总耗氧量的34％，底质和池水耗氧量分别占30％和35％。根据虾池氧的收支情况讨论了池养对虾的生产容量。     

Baroclinic Buoyancy-Inertia Joint Stability Parameter

At present, the barotropic buoyant stability parameter has been derived from a vertical virtual displacement of a water parcel. The barotropic inertial stability parameter in the eccentrically cyclogeostrophic, basic current field was derived in 2003 from a horizontal cross-stream virtual displacement of a parcel. By expressing acceleration of a parcel due to a virtual displacement, which is arbitrarily sloping within a vertical section across the basic current, in terms of natural coordinates, we derived the vertical component of baroclinic buoyant stability parameter B ₂ ², the horizontal component of baroclinic inertial stability parameter I ₂ ², the baroclinic joint stability parameter J ², its buoyant component B ² and its inertial component I ². B ² is far greater than I ₂ ², and when neglecting relative vorticity except for vertical shear, a downward convex curve of J ² plotted against the slope of a virtual displacement follows a trend of B ² curve. If a parcel displaces along a horizontal surface or an isopycnal surface, however, B ² vanishes, and J ² becomes equal to I ². Actual parcel is apt to displace not only along the bottom slope, but also along the sea surface and an isopycnal interfacial surface, which is approximately equivalent to an isentropic surface, preferred by lateral mixing and exchange of momentum. Such actual displacement makes B ² vanishing, and grants I ² an important role. The present analysis of I ² examining effects due to curvature and horizontal and vertical shear vorticities are useful in deepening our understanding of baroclinic instability in actual oceanic streams.     

Summer distribution and geochemical composition of suspended-particulate matter in the east china sea

The distribution and geochemical composition of suspended-particulate matter (SPM) in the East China Sea (ECS) were investigated during the summer period of high continental runoff to elucidate SPM sources, distribution and cross-shelf transport. The spatial variability of SPM distribution (0.3–6.5 mg l⁻¹) and geochemical composition (POC, Al, Si, Fe, Mn, Ca, Mg and K) in the ECS was pronounced during summer when the continental fluxes of freshwater and terrestrial materials were highest during the year. Under the influences of Changjiang runoff, Kuroshio intrusion, surface production and bottom resuspension, the distribution generally showed strong gradients decreasing seaward for both biogenic and lithogenic materials. Particulate organic carbon was enriched in surface water (mean ∼18%) due to the influence of biological productivity, and was diluted by resuspended and/or laterally-transported materials in bottom water (mean 9.4%). The abundance of lithogenic elements (Al, Si, Fe, Mn) increased toward the bottom, and the distribution correlations were highly significant. Particulate CaCO₃ distribution provided evidence that the SPM of the bottom water in the northern part of the study area was likely mixed with sediments originally derived from Huanghe. A distinct benthic nepheloid layer (BNL) was present in all seaward transects of the ECS shelf. Sediment resuspension may be caused by tidal fluctuation and other forcing and be regarded as the principal agent in the formation of BNL. This BNL was likely responsible for the transport of biogenic and lithogenic particles across or along the ECS shelf. Total inventories of SPM, POC and PN are 46, 2.8 and 0.4 Tg, respectively, measured over the total area of 0.45 × 10⁶ km² of the ECS shelf. Their mean residence times are about 27, 13 and 11 days, respectively. The inventory of SPM in the water column was higher in the northernmost and southernmost transects and lower in the middle transects, reflecting the influences of terrestrial inputs from Changjiang and/or resuspended materials from Huanghe deposits in the north and perhaps from Minjiang and/or Taiwan’s rivers in the south. The distribution and transport patterns of SPM and geochemical elements strongly indicate that continental sources and cross-shelf transport modulate ECS particulate matter in summer.     

闽江口段溶解态镉,铅和铜的收支平衡

利用潮输沙量的计算方法,估算了闽江口入海口内3个断面所包围区域溶解态镉、铅和铜的收支平衡,从而研究了这些重金属的河口行为。     

二色桌片参的化学成分研究：Ⅲ、二色桌片参多糖—1——岩藻聚糖的免疫调节

研究了二色桌片参多糖－1（PMI－1）在体内、体外的免疫调节作用。结果表明。二色桌片参多糖－1体外能促进小鼠脾淋巴细胞增殖，促进小鼠脾淋巴细胞分泌IL－2；体内能显著促进迟发型敏反应，增加脾指数，胸腺指数：具有显著的免疫增强作用。     

酸雨的研究进展及厦门酸雨研究的趋势

本文综述了国内外酸雨的研究现状；包括酸雨的来源、成因、模式、影响及防治对策；介绍了酸雨的研究趋势；并着重就厦门地区今后酸雨的研究方向提出也作者的看法。     

沉积物镁铝含量比及其古气候意义

沉积物的镁铝含量比——m 值(m=100×MgO/Al_2O_3)与沉积水介质的盐度、pH 水温关系密切。当水温处在冰点以下时,沉积物的m 值随水温降低而增大。当水温处在冰点以上时,水介质的盐度、pH 和水温的增加,都有利于m 值增大。由于气候条件能直接或间接地影响沉积水介质的特征,因此,沉积物的m 值对古气候的变化具有一定的判别功能。通过对中国元古宙以来沉积物m 值的分析,发现古气候的热冷变化有1200Ma 的周期,其中还有次一级的热冷气候波动。第四纪的气候是处在热气候期后期的一个冷的气候波动阶段。