Near-shore swell estimation from a global wind-wave model: Spectral process,linear, and artificial neural network models

Estimation of swell conditions in coastal regions is important for a variety of public, government, and research applications. Driving a model of the near-shore wave transformation from an offshore global swell model such as NOAA WaveWatch3 is an economical means to arrive at swell size estimates at particular locations of interest. Recently, some work (e.g. Browne et al. [Browne, M., Strauss, D., Castelle, B., Blumenstein, M., Tomlinson, R., 2006. Local swell estimation and prediction from a global wind-wave model. IEEE Geoscience and Remote Sensing Letters 3 (4), 462–466.]) has examined an artificial neural network (ANN) based, empirical approach to wave estimation. Here, we provide a comprehensive evaluation of two data driven approaches to estimating waves near-shore (linear and ANN), and also contrast these with a more traditional spectral wave simulation model (SWAN). Performance was assessed on data gathered from a total of 17 near-shore locations, with heterogenous geography and bathymetry, around the continent of Australia over a 7 month period. It was found that the ANNs out-performed SWAN and the non-linear architecture consistently out-performed the linear method. Variability in performance and differential performance with regard to geographical location could largely be explained in terms of the underlying complexity of the local wave transformation.     

The Var turbidite system (Ligurian Sea, northwestern Mediterranean)—morphology, sediment supply, construction of turbidite levee and sediment waves: implications for hydrocarbon reservoirs

The Var turbidite system is a small sandy system located in the Ligurian Basin. It was deposited during the Pliocene-Quaternary in a flat-floored basin formed during the Messinian salinity crisis. The system was fed through time by the Var and Paillon canyons that connect directly to the Var and Paillon rivers. It is still active during the present sea-level highstand. Two main mechanisms are responsible for gravity-flow triggering in the Var turbidite system: (1) mass-wasting events affect mainly the upper part of the continental slope, in areas where volumes of fresh sediment delivered by rivers are highest, and result from the under-consolidation state of slope sediments and earthquakes, and (2) high-magnitude river floods resulting from melting of snow and convective rainfall during fall and spring seasons, and generating hyperpycnal turbidity currents at river mouths when the density of freshwater transporting suspended particles exceeds that of ambient seawater. Failure- and flood-induced gravity flows are involved through time in the construction of the Var Sedimentary Ridge, the prominent right-hand levee of the Var system, and sediment waves. Processes of construction of both the Var Ridge and sediment waves are closely connected. Sandy deposits are thick and abundant in the eastern (downchannel) part of the ridge. Their distribution is highly constrained by the strong difference of depositional processes across the sediment waves, potentially resulting through time in the individualization of large and interconnected sand bodies.     

Isochores and 3-D visualization of rising and falling slat diapirs

Diapir fall, which was predicted by physical models, has been identified in salt provinces, such as the South Atlantic margins, the North Sea, and the Paradox Basin (Colorado–Utah). However the 3-D geometry of falling diapirs and their country rock is still poorly understood. 3-D visualization and isochore patterns from a physical model help elucidate this geometry.The model initially comprised a unit of viscous silicone overlain by a prekinematic sand unit. Sand units representing brittle sediments were deposited episodically during gravity gliding and spreading. Regional extension triggered and eventually widened salt walls, causing them to sag. The 3-D visualization shows that regional hydrocarbon migration, which tends to be seaward during diapir rise and landward during diapir fall, can potentially be orthogonal to local migration along grabens at soft-linked zones of relay ramps. Furthermore, anticlinal culminations may form (1) in horsts that bend along strike and (2) adjoining the fork of Y-shaped salt walls.Sequential isochore maps of the overburden show how patterns of sedimentation, deformation, and underlying salt thickness changed through time. Isochores of prekinematic units record only strain: thinned belts record early extension. In contrast, isochores of synkinematic units record mostly thickness variations due to deposition on actively deforming topography. Isochores above sagging diapirs identify the thickest part of crestal depocenters, where the most rapid sagging occurred in regions of maximum extension near the unbuttressed downdip part of the gravity-spreading system. Additionally, asymmetric isochore patterns may reveal underlying half-grabens or tilted symmetric grabens. In relay systems, overlying isochores may indicate which part of a salt wall rose to compensate for sagging elsewhere in the relay.     

Pasisar: Performances of a High and Very High Resolution Hybrid Deep-Towed Seismic Device

The Pasisar seismic acquisition system combines a source at the sea surface and a deep-towed single channel streamer. This unconventional device geometry reduces the width of the first Fresnel zone which increases the lateral resolution. However, the device acquisition geometry generates artifacts on seismic profiles and induces large incidence angles of the seismic signal. A specific processing sequence must be applied to the data to obtain a readable seismic section. Penetration of the seismic signal depends on the energy of the signal reaching the seafloor and on its incidence angle. Because of smaller source energy, 800 Joules Sparker data cannot be acquired in water depth larger than 1500 m for example, whereas there is no depth limit for the use of this system with air gun sources. Differential acoustic absorption of seismic frequencies (below 1000 Hz) in the water column is negligible when compared with wave fronts expansion. Thus, the horizontal resolution of any seismic system strongly depends on the frequency spectrum of the seismic source and on the travel distances. Pasisar and conventional seismic profiles being usually simultaneously recorded, we illustrate the interest of using a hybrid seismic device by comparing horizontal resolutions as well as signal-to-noise ratio obtained with both the Pasisar and conventional systems. In addition, by carefully picking time arrivals of a reflection on simultaneously recorded surface and deep-towed seismic records, it is possible to estimate the average interval seismic velocity. We present the simplified example of a horizontal reflector.     

An ultraviolet-selected galaxy redshift survey: new estimates of the local star formation rate

We present the first results of an ongoing spectroscopic survey of galaxies selected in the rest frame ultraviolet (UV). The source catalogue has been constructed from a flux-limited sample of stars, galaxies and QSOs imaged at 2000 Å in Selected Area 57 with the FOCA balloon-borne imaging camera. Accurate positions for the UV sources have been obtained by matching with optical counterparts using APM scans of the Palomar Sky Survey limited at B   20.5. Here we present results derived from optical spectroscopy conducted with the WIYN telescope and the WHT for 142 faint sources. The redshift distribution for this UV-selected sample extends over 0 <  z  < 0.5, and a high fraction of the sources show intense nebular emission lines and UV–optical colours bluer than normal Hubble sequence galaxies. Such UV-selected surveys are thus a very efficient way to locate and study intermediate-redshift galaxies undergoing intense star formation. Although our sample is currently small, we derive a rest frame UV luminosity function with a steep faint-end slope consistent with that found for late-type galaxies in optical samples. However, the integrated luminosity density derived implies a volume-averaged star formation rate higher than other recent estimates, assuming a normal initial mass function. If representative of other UV fields, as suggested by UV number count studies, our data imply that the local abundance of star-forming galaxies may have been underestimated, and consequently claims for strong evolution in the global star formation rate in the range 0 <  z  < 1 overstated. An intensive study of a large UV-selected sample is likely to reveal important information on the declining population of star-forming galaxies of all types.     

In vitro simulation of oxic/suboxic diagenesis in an estuarine fluid mud subjected to redox oscillations

Estuarine turbidity maxima (ETMs) are sites of intense mineralisation of land-derived particulate organic matter (OM), which occurs under oxic/suboxic oscillating conditions owing to repetitive sedimentation and resuspension cycles at tidal and neap-spring time scales. To investigate the biogeochemical processes involved in OM mineralisation in ETMs, an experimental set up was developed to simulate in vitro oxic/anoxic oscillations in turbid waters and to follow the short timescale changes in oxygen, carbon, nitrogen, and manganese concentration and speciation. We present here the results of a 27-day experiment (three oxic periods and two anoxic periods) with an estuarine fluid mud from the Gironde estuary. Time courses of chemical species throughout the experiment evidenced the occurrence of four distinct characteristic periods with very different properties. Steady oxic conditions were characterised by oxygen consumption rates between 10 and 40 μmol L⁻¹ h⁻¹, dissolved inorganic carbon (DIC) production of 9–12 μmol L⁻¹ h⁻¹, very low NH₄⁺ and Mn²⁺ concentrations, and constant NO₃⁻ production rates (0.4 - 0.7 μmol L⁻¹ h⁻¹) due to coupled ammonification and nitrification. The beginning of anoxic periods (24 h following oxic to anoxic switches) showed DIC production rates of 2.5–8.6 μmol L⁻¹ h⁻¹ and very fast NO₃⁻ consumption (5.6–6.3 μmol L⁻¹ h⁻¹) and NH₄⁺ production (1.4–1.5 μmol L⁻¹ h⁻¹). The latter rates were positively correlated to NO₃⁻ concentration and were apparently caused by the predominance of denitrification and dissimilatory nitrate reduction to ammonia. Steady anoxic periods were characterised by constant and low NO₃⁻ concentrations and DIC and NH₄⁺ productions of less than 1.3 and 0.1 μmol L⁻¹ h⁻¹, respectively. Mn²⁺ and CH₄ were produced at constant rates (respectively 0.3 and 0.015 μmol L⁻¹ h⁻¹) throughout the whole anoxic periods and in the presence of nitrate. Finally, reoxidation periods (24–36 h following anoxic to oxic switches) showed rapid NH₄⁺ and Mn²⁺ decreases to zero (1.6 and 0.8–2 μmol L⁻¹ h⁻¹, respectively) and very fast NO₃⁻ production (3 μmol L⁻¹ h⁻¹). This NO₃⁻ production, together with marked transient peaks of dissolved organic carbon a few hours after anoxic to oxic switches, suggested that particulate OM mineralisation was enhanced during these transient reoxidation periods. An analysis based on C and N mass balance suggested that redox oscillation on short time scales (day to week) enhanced OM mineralisation relative to both steady oxic and steady anoxic conditions, making ETMs efficient biogeochemical reactors for the mineralisation of refractory terrestrial OM at the land-sea interface.     

Meteorologically-induced mesoscale variability of the North-western Alboran Sea (southern Spain) and related biological patterns

Hydrographic mesoscale structures in the North-western Alboran Sea show a high variability induced by a number of different factors. One of the most important is the differences in atmospheric pressure over the Mediterranean basin when compared to the Gulf of Cádiz. This difference modulates the zonal wind field in the Alboran Sea and the intensity of the Atlantic inflow through the Strait of Gibraltar, also affecting the formation and extension of the Western Alboran Gyre (WAG). When westerly winds are dominant, lower atmospheric pressure in the Mediterranean enhances the inflow of Atlantic waters causing the Atlantic Jet to be located in the vicinity of the Spanish shore, creating a well-defined frontal zone in front of Estepona Cove. In this situation, the coastal upwelling is enhanced, leading to a minimum in sea surface temperature and a maximum of surface nutrient concentrations located in the coastal area. The vertical position of the chlorophyll maximum found in these circumstances appeared to be controlled by the nutrient availability. On the other hand, when easterly winds prevail, higher atmospheric pressure in the Mediterranean leads to a reduced inflow and the oceanographic and biological structures are clearly different. The Atlantic Jet moves southward flowing in a south-eastern direction, changing the structure of the currents, resulting in an enhanced cyclonic circulation extending throughout the North-western Alboran Sea basin. These physical alterations also induce changes in the distribution of biogeochemical variables. Maximum nutrient and chlorophyll concentrations are located further off the coast in the central area of the newly created cyclonic gyre. During these easterlies periods coastal upwelling stops and the distribution of phytoplankton cells seems to be mainly controlled by physical processes such as advection of coastal waters to the open sea.     

Benthic remineralization at the land–ocean interface: A case study of the Rhône River (NW Mediterranean Sea)

Biogeochemical processes in sediments under the influence of the Rhône River plume were studied using both in situ microelectrodes and ex situ sediment core incubations. Organic carbon (OC) and total nitrogen (TN) content as well as stable carbon isotopic composition of OC (δ¹³C_OC) were analysed in 19 surface sediments to determine the distribution and sources of organic matter in the Rhône delta system. Large spatial variations were observed in both the total O₂ uptake (5.2 to 29.3 mmol m⁻² d⁻¹) and NH₄⁺ release (−0.1 to −3.5 mmol m⁻² d⁻¹) rates at the sediment–water interface. The highest fluxes were measured near the Rhône River mouth where sedimentary OC and TN contents reached 1.81% and 0.23% respectively. Values of δ¹³C_OC ranged from −26.83‰ to −23.88‰ with a significant seawards enrichment tracing the dispersal of terrestrial organic matter on the continental shelf. The amount of terrestrial-derived OC reaches 85% in sediments close to the Rhône mouth decreasing down to 25% in continental shelf sediments. On the prodelta, high terrestrial OC accumulation rates support high oxygen uptake rates and thus indicating that a significant fraction of terrestrial OC is remineralized. A particulate organic carbon (POC) mass balance indicates that only 3% of the deposited POC is remineralized in prodelta sediments while 96% is recycled on the continental shelf. It was calculated that a large proportion of the Rhône POC input is either buried (52%) or remineralized (8%), mostly on the prodelta area. The remaining fraction (40%) is either mineralized in the water or exported outside the Rhône delta system in dissolved or particulate forms.     

Is a regional flood signal reproducible from lake sediments?

The evolution of flood activity with global warming remains uncertain. To better assess flood–climate relationships, lake sediments are increasingly being investigated because they could provide regional flood histories long enough to cover past climate changes. However, site‐specific sedimentary processes may bias flood reconstructions. The aim of this article is to investigate these effects through the reconstruction of two distinct flood records from independent, neighbouring sedimentary basins of the same lake (Lake Allos in the Mediterranean French Alps), i.e. under the same climate conditions. Understanding of sedimentary processes is crucial in order to adapt the sampling strategy and the flood‐intensity proxy to each sedimentary system and, thereby, reconstruct a complete and reliable flood history. Thanks to this detailed approach, the main trends of the regional flood variability can be reproduced; i.e. periods of high flood‐frequency, ranges of flood‐frequency values and timing of the most intense events. In detail, some differences appeared associated to the various stream capacities to erode and transport flood sediments to the lake system, implying variable sensitivity of sedimentary systems in recording floods. Comparing regional flood records based on independent sedimentary systems from similar environments could thus be a complementary approach to assessing past flood intensity. Such an approach could open particularly interesting perspectives because reconstructing the long‐term evolution of flood intensity is a key challenge in the geosciences.