THE STATISTICAL DISTRIBUTION OF THE SPATIAL MAXIMA OF A WAVY SEA SURFACE

A statistical distribution of the maxima of a random function in two space variables is suggested to fit with stereo observations of the sea surface. The presented distribution is a complicated mix of Gaussian, Rayleighian and Maxwellian distributions and determined by three parameters of the directional spectrum, According to the changes of the three parameters it may approach the above three distributions respectively in special cases so that it has more probability of fitting stereo data better In addition, the fact that these parameters can be directly estimated from observed data is briefly in the paper.     

分析海浪方向谱的扩展本征矢方法：I.方法的导出

基于交叉谱矩阵可以按本征值划分为信号和含有噪音部分的思想，提出了一种自直接测量数据估计海浪方向谱的方法。该方法称为扩展本征矢方法（ＥＥＶ），应用于单点测量系统，仪器阵列以及由地者构成的复合阵列。现有的某些估计方法（如最大似然方法及其扩展形式等）仅是此方法的某种特例。     

The effect of wave breaking on surface wave imaging by Synthetic Aperture Radar

The effect of ocean wave breaking as a non-Bragg mechanism on backscattering cross-section and modulation transfer functions （MTF） of radar was investigated based on Bragg resonance theory and parametric method. The result showed that the additional effect of wave breaking on backscattering cross-section is not more than 20% except for the small incident angle of VV polarized electromagnetic （e.m.） wave but is significant for HH polarized e.m. wave. Breaking waves lead to increase in the modulus of tilt modulation MTF and the larger the wind speed, the faster the increase. For large incident angle, the modulus of tilt modulation MTF with wave breaking decreases quickly with incident angle for HH polarization and approach to that without wave breaking for VV polarization. The hydrodynamic MTF increases 30%-60% when considering wave breaking and the increase is larger for HH polarization than for VV polarization.     

风浪状态对海面风应力影响的初步研究

利用新近提出的海面风应力系数线性参数化理论,定性地分析了已有风应力和风浪的观测数据。分析发现这些观测数据表明在小波陡的情形下海面风应力系数随风速的变化较大波陡的情形更加迅速。结果定性地倾向于支持Toba等的结果,即成熟的风浪较年轻的风浪更加粗糙。     

二阶非线性随机海浪波面高度和波面垂直速度的联合分布

基于Longuet－Higgins提出的非线性随机海浪模型，在二阶近似下通过直接计算联合分布的各阶矩，导出了非线性海浪波面高度和波面垂直速度的联合分布。该分布为非正态，其形式为截断的级数，而非由累积矩母函数方法可能得到的渐近无穷级数。由于非线性的影响，波面高度与波面垂直速度不再相互独立。     

活跃破碎的图像识别

破碎波峰线长度的速度谱Λ(c)及其高阶矩是研究破碎能量耗散、动量通量等关键问题的有效工具。活跃破碎的图像识别是正确计算Λ(c)的一个关键前提。Kleiss等2011年给出了一种基于对数累积灰度函数(L)的导函数区分活跃破碎与尾迹的阈值方法,但阈值的确定仍存在一定的主观性,得到的破碎阈值可能偏低。我们通过对渤海海域拍摄的白冠破碎观测资料的分析,发现L函数的二阶导数往往存在稳定的次峰,次峰所对应的灰度值正可作为区分活跃破碎与尾迹的灰度阈值,由此提出一种基于L函数二阶导数次峰的阈值确定方法。     

二阶非线性随机海浪波高度和波面垂直速度的联合分布

基于Ｌｏｎｇｕｅｔ－Ｈｉｇｇｉｎｓ提出的非线性随机海浪模型，在二阶近似下通过直接计算联合分布的各阶矩，导出了非线性海浪波面高度和波面垂直速度的联合分布，该分布为非正态，其形式为截断的级数，而非由累积矩母函数方法可能得到的渐近无穷级数。由于非线性的影响，波面高度与波面垂直速度不再相互独立。     

分析海浪方向谱的扩展本征矢方法Ⅰ.方法的导出

基于交叉谱矩阵可以按本征值划分为信号和含有噪音部分的思想，提出了一种自直接测量数据估计海浪方向谱的方法。该方法称为扩展本征矢方法（EEV），可应用于单点测量系统、仪器阵列以及由二者构成的复合阵列。现有的某些估计方法（如最大似然方法及其扩展形式等）仅是此方法的某种特例。     

Parameterized first-guess spectrum method for retrieving directional spectrum of swell-dominated waves and huge waves from SAR images

A method to retrieve ocean wave spectra from SAR images, named Parameterized First-guess Spectrum Method (PFSM), was proposed after interpretation of the theory to ocean wave imaging and analysis of the drawbacks of the retrieving model generally used. In this method, with additional information and satellite parameters, the separating wave-number is first calculated to determine the maximum wave-number beyond which the linear relation can be used. The separating wave-number can be calculated using the additional information on wind velocity and parameters of SAR satellite. And then the SAR spectrum can be divided into SAR spectrum of wind wave and of swell according to the result of separating wave-number. The portion of SAR spectrum generated by wind wave, is used to search for the most suitable parameters of ocean wind wave spectrum, including propagation direction of ocean wave, phase speed of dominating wave and the angle spreading coefficient. The swell spectrum is acquired by directly inversing the linear relation of ocean wave spectrum to SAR spectrum given the portion of SAR spectrum generated by swell. We used the proposed method to retrieve the ocean wave spectrum from ERS-SAR data from the South China Sea and compared the result with altimeter data. The agreement indicates that the PFSM is reliable.     

基于选定风浪方向谱的海浪模拟方法(英文)

简要回顾当前第三代海浪模式中的困难。为避开这些困难,作者提出一种新的海浪模拟方法,其中特定定义的风浪组成波依常风下随时间成长的方向谱计算,而涌浪组成波藉考虑涡动黏性和底摩擦加以计算。并进行了常风场和变风场下系统的数值试验。在常风速情形中,模拟结果能精确地化为建立模拟所根据的谱和风浪成长关系。计算显示出台风中心附近浪场的极端复杂的谱结构。当风速骤然降低时,模拟的波高减小与观测符合。在风向逐渐或骤然改变情形下,计算的时间响应尺度与海上观测符合,而且演化中的二维谱结构得到良好刻画。对于涌浪在无风下的传播,模拟结果合理,包括波参量及谱结构的变化。后报得到的波高、周期和海上资料符合。与第三代模式相比,文中提出的方法较易改进,需用的计算机时间显著减少。最后讨论采用一个已知谱来建立谱形式的海浪预报模型的合理性以及有关的问题。