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1.Introduction Owingtothesimilaritiesbetweenthesurfacewaveandtheinterfacialwave,itisnaturaltoapply themethodsdevelopedforsurfacewavestothestudyofinterfacialwavesasreviewedbyUmeyama (1998;2000).Recently,Song(2004)derivedsecond ordersolutionsforrandominterfacialwavesat aconstantdepthinatwo layerfluidsystemwitharigidlidusinganexpansiontechnique,analogousto thatusedbyLonguet Higgins(1963)andSharmaandDean(1979),tostudyrandomsurfacewaves. Inthispaper,Song’sresultsareextendedtoamoregeneralcaseoft… 相似文献
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Fractional energy losses of waves due to wave breaking when passing over a submerged bar are studied systematically using
a modified numerical code that is based on the high-order Boussinesq-type equations. The model is first tested by the additional
experimental data, and the model’s capability of simulating the wave transformation over both gentle slope and steep slope
is demonstrated. Then, the model’s breaking index is replaced and tested. The new breaking index, which is optimized from
the several breaking indices, is not sensitive to the spatial grid length and includes the bottom slopes. Numerical tests
show that the modified model with the new breaking index is more stable and efficient for the shallow-water wave breaking.
Finally, the modified model is used to study the fractional energy losses for the regular waves propagating and breaking over
a submerged bar. Our results have revealed that how the nonlinearity and the dispersion of the incident waves as well as the
dimensionless bar height (normalized by water depth) dominate the fractional energy losses. It is also found that the bar
slope (limited to gentle slopes that less than 1:10) and the dimensionless bar length (normalized by incident wave length)
have negligible effects on the fractional energy losses. 相似文献
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利用修正的非线性水平二维Lynett-Liu内长波数值模式,模拟了小振幅孤立子内波进出水道口的传播过程,及其穿过狭窄水道的衍射过程。通过分析孤立子内波垂向波形和水平二维纹理图像随水道口的形状及开阔水域宽度的变化.研究了侧边界对孤立子内波传播所产生的影响,并与卫星遥感图片进行了对比。 相似文献
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lareODUcrI0NThephenomenonofbreakingwavesintheoasnoocurswheneveramomentahiyhighcrestmecheSanunstablecondition.It0ccursintendtimhy,andtheoccurrencefre-qUencydePendsonthescastate.ManystudAshaddricaniedoutontheoccurmcefre-qUencyofbrmkingwavesindeepweter.0chiandTsai(l983),LongueHiggins(l975)andVanD0mandPamn(l975)nadstheptalictonofbrmkingwavesoccurrenceindeePwater,usingabaskingcriterionforindividualwavesbasedonthewavesmpness.ThecriterioncanbeexpmeedintennSofthewaVehdghtHandperiodTasH>PgT'(… 相似文献
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A numerical wave tank is used to investigate the onset and strength of unforced wave breaking, and the waves have three types of initial spectra: constant amplitude spectrum, constant steepness spectrum and Pierson-Moscowitz spectrum. Numerical tests are performed to validate the model results. Then, the onset of wave breaking is discussed with geometric, kinematic, and dynamic breaking criteria. The strength of wave breaking, which is always characterized by the fractional energy loss and breaking strength coefficient, is studied for different spectra. The results show how the energy growth rate is better than the initial wave steepness on estimating the fractional energy losses as well as breaking strength coefficient. 相似文献
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A numerical wave tank is used to investigate the onset and strength of unforced wave breaking, and the waves have three types of initial spectra: constant amplitude spectrum, constant steepness spectrum and Pierson-Moscowitz spectrum. Numerical tests are performed to validate the model results. Then, the onset of wave breaking is discussed with geometric, kinematic, and dynamic breaking criteria. The strength of wave breaking, which is always characterized by the fractional energy loss and breaking strength coefficient, is studied for different spectra. The results show how the energy growth rate is better than the initial wave steepness on estimating the fractional energy losses as well as breaking strength coefficient. 相似文献
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以往研究表明, 涌浪存在时, 近海面大气边界层内Monin–Obukhov相似性理论(Monin–Obukhov Similar Theory, MOST)将会失效, 风廓线模型的建立需要考虑波致应力的影响。基于此, 本文首先研究了包含涌浪影响的Ekman模型和常通量层模型求解的风廓线。结果表明: 两种模型估算的风廓线均对涌浪的波衰减率系数cβ有较高的依赖性, 在cβ<–50时, 模型求解的风廓线均出现近海面风速极大值, 但科氏力对近海面风廓线的影响可以忽略。在不同的大气层结下, 分析发现海浪边界层(直接受波浪影响的区域)内风速明显小于海浪边界层之上MOST廓线在相同高度的外推值, 体现了涌浪引起明显的剪切增强。通过对比分析广东省茂名市附近海上观测平台的实测数据发现, 在涌浪存在时, MOST普遍无法描述风廓线; 统计分析表明常通量层模型估算的风廓线在8 m处的风速与实测数据高度一致。考虑以往研究基本局限于中性大气层结条件, 而涌浪经常显著影响着浮力作用明显的中低风速条件, 我们的研究将有助于理解不同大气层结条件下涌浪对风廓线的影响。 相似文献