Mass flux and undertow in a surf zone

The mass of water carried shoreward by the breaking waves in a surf zone will, in a two-dimensional situation, be compensated by a seaward return flow, the undertow. It is shown that the undertow is driven by the local difference between radiation stress and the set-up pressure gradient which only balance each other in average over the depth. Turbulent shear stresses are required to maintain a steady situation. Comparison with measurements confirms the theoretical results.     

Application of cluster analysis to study the relationship between the fine stratification and the background hydrological conditions in the ocean

Cluster analysis is discussed in the context of its application to map various test areas in the sea. By analysing the correspondence of the identified categories to areas with specific hydrological conditions, an attempt is made to relate the types of fine structure to diverse background conditions. With two test areas mapped, a conclusion is made as to the possible application of cluster analysis to this end.Translated by Vladimir A. Puchkin.     

A note on significant wave height

In this note conservative bounds for significant crest height and amplitude obtained from the crossing intensity of a sea are presented. For Gaussian models of a sea level, the Rayleigh approximation for the distributions of amplitude and crest height is proved to provide conservative values for the expected significant wave characteristics. The results are illustrated by examples in which both Gaussian and non-Gaussian models for a sea are considered.     

Seasonal course of theT,S-characteristics in the north-eastern Tropical Atlantic

The problem of the seasonal variations of temperature and salinity in the intermediate zone located between the West African and the Gulf of Guinea upwellings is considered. The vertical distribution of the phase-amplitude characteristics of the annual and semi-annual variations is examined in good detail and their parameters are defined from the monthly means using the least-squares fit technique. The contribution of isopycnic advection to the formation of seasonal thermohaline variations is studied.Translated by Vladimir A. Puchkin.     

国际争端解决机构

作者随代表团赴德国、荷兰和英国访问，实地考察了国际法院、国际常设仲裁法院、国际海洋法法庭以及英国的DJFREEMAN律师事务所。本文对上述机构进行了全面的介绍。     

Recent and Late Holocene environments on the southeastern shelf of the Laptev Sea as inferred from microfossil data

The study of diatoms and benthic foraminifers from the southeastern shelf of the Laptev Sea shows that their most diverse and abundant recent assemblages populate the peripheral underwater part of the Lena River delta representing the marginal filter of the sea. This area is characterized by an intense interaction between the fresh waters of the Siberian rivers and the basin seawater, the Atlantic one included. Local Late Holocene (～last 2300 years) environments reflect the main regional and global paleoclimatic changes, the Medieval Warm Period (～600–1100 years B.P.) and the Little Ice Age (～100–600 years B.P.) inclusive. In addition, the composition and distribution of planktonic foraminifers implies a strong influence of the Atlantic water during the Holocene optimum ～5100–6200 years B.P.     

Phytoplankton biomass and size fractions in surface waters of the Australian sector of the southern ocean

We collected surface water along the 142nd E meridian from Tasmania to Antarctica in December 1999. We measured temperature, salinity and total chlorophyll a; additionally, we collected suspended particle size fractions and used fluorometric analysis to determine the quantity of chlorophyll a in each of four cell size classes: picoplankton (<3 μm), two nanoplankton fractions (3–10 μm and 10–20 μm) and microplankton (> 20 μm). Changes in temperature and salinity show that we crossed 6 water masses separated by 5 fronts. We found low abundance (<0.2 mg m⁻³) of chlorophyll in all size classes, with the exception of higher values near the continent (0.2 to 0.4 mg m⁻³). Lowest chlorophyll values (<0.1 mg m⁻³) were found in the Polar Frontal Zone (51° to 54°S). Microplankton made up the largest portion of total chlorophyll throughout most of the region. We conclude that biomass of all phytoplankton fractions, especially pico-and nanoplankton, was constrained by limiting factors, most probably iron, throughout the region and that ecosystem dynamics within a zone are not circumpolar but are regionalized within sectors.     

Parametric integral model of the wind disturbance concerted with the All-Union wave constructional standards and regulations (CSR)

In a modern statement, the concept of a parametric integral model consists of integration of the energy balance equation (or wind forcing) over the frequency. The angular distribution of the energy and the frequency spectrum are prescribed. The equation is solved by the numerical method taking into consideration the energy advection and its local pumping with the assigned wind field varying in time and space. To calculate the swell waves one can employ the well-known Longuet-Higgins theorem on the invariance of a two-dimensional spectrum. or the ray discrete technique.UDK 551.466.315Translated by Mikhail M. Trufanov.     

悬浮沙激光散斑图像处理的研究

本文以统计模式识别为基础，阐述了图像处理在悬浮沙粒粒径流量中的实际应用，提出了用图像层析来确定放大系数的方法，提出了测量的准确度。     

普里兹湾陆缘水边界的变化

利用１９９８年１１月－１９９９年２月中国第１５次南极考察资料,讨论了普里兹湾附近陆缘水边界（ＣＷＢ）两侧的水团分布,以及ＣＷＢ的中心位置、锋面宽度、锋面强度、锋面的垂直深度和垂直厚度等物理特征的空间变化。并与１９９２年１２月－１９９３年２月中国第９次南极考察资料进行了比较,说明了ＣＷＢ的时间２变化。同时,还进一步分析了ＣＷＢ两侧海水运动的各向异性,以及动力高度场的形势,指出了动力高度槽,ＣＷＢ锋面