Measurements of higher harmonic wave forces on a vertical truncated circular cylinder

Wave forces on a vertical truncated circular cylinder in Stokes waves with the wave slopes ranging from 0.06 to 0.24, are measured in a wave tank. The higher harmonic wave forces are compared with the available values from theories of the FNV (Faltisen–Newman–Vinje) model and Varyani solution. The first harmonic horizontal forces measured are much larger than the theoretical values from the FNV model, while the first harmonic vertical forces are well predicted by the Varyani theory. It was also found that the FNV model significantly overpredicts the second harmonic horizontal forces in high frequency waves, but under predicts the third harmonic forces. The differences between the actual measurement and the theory, in the second and third harmonic horizontal forces, become smaller at low wave frequencies as the wave slope increases. In addition, the transverse instabilities in the incoming waves with high wave slope were observed, which is due to the nonlinear modulation. Measurements were, thus, carried out before the instability occurred.     

Preliminary report on radionuclide concentrations in the bottom waters at the entrance of Wakasa Bay with special reference to the Japan Sea Proper Water

Marked fluctuation of concentrations of⁹⁰Sr and¹³⁷Cs was observed in the bottom waters at the entrance of Wakasa Bay during 1987–1992, and the cause was investigated. The concentrations of⁹⁰Sr and¹³⁷Cs in the bottom waters were significantly low when the upper level of the Japan Sea Proper Water (JSPW) was high and covered the sampling depth, but high when the upper level of the JSPW was low. The cause of the fluctuation observed in the bottom waters is, therefore, suggested to be the vertical fluctuation of the upper level of the JSPW on the shelf slope, which has been little described before.     

扇贝的养殖环境及其体内的细菌学分析

自1992年9月～1994年11月，对青岛胶州湾养殖的扇贝及环境中的细菌组成和某些生态学特性进行了调查。养殖区表层海水中异养菌和弧菌平均数各波动于（21．2～39．7）×102／cm3和（7．3～19．2）×102／cm3之间。其中1号和4号站位的菌数比其它越位都高，这和它们靠近码头，受到附近的排水污染有关。在扇贝的消化盲囊和性腺内也分离到异养菌和弧菌，分别为103～105个g和103～105个／g。这些细菌可能因扇贝遇到环境改变防御能力下降时，扩散到其它器官并大量繁殖，因而造成感染而死亡。从对分离菌的药物敏感试验结果看，近年一些菌株对原来敏感的药物产生了抗药性，如四环索和链霉素，今后在育苗过程中避免滥用抗菌药物是十分重要的。     

The synchronous coupling of a third-generation wave model and a two-dimensional storm surge model

The interaction of waves and currents is studied by the dynamical coupling of a third generation wave model and a two-dimensional storm surge model. The coupling process of the two models is implemented synchronously. To estimate the effects of waves on the generation of storm surges, the theory of Janssen is used. The effects of the wave radiation stress on surge levels and the effects of storm-induced currents on waves are also investigated.The coupled wave and storm surge models have been tested by hindcasting two storm events in the northern South China Sea. The use of the Simth and Banke stress relation underestimates the surges by 10%. The inclusion of the radiation stress improves the accuracy of the computed results slightly by 2%. The introduction of a wave-dependent surface drag gives a significant improvement. The storm-induced currents clearly affect the wave characteristics at the peak stage. However, as far as the prediction of wave height is concerned, it is better not to consider the wave radiation stress in the storm surge model unless this is accompanied by a wave-dependent surface drag.     

三峡工程对河口及邻近海域渔业影响的初步探讨

河口只是河流与海洋之间的一小部分水域,但对人类社会的发展和生物的进化起着重要的作用。它不仅是生物种群繁殖、育幼和栖息的场所,而且是溯河和降海鱼类洄游的必经之路,因此,河口对生物种群的繁衍延续和资源补充,以及保持生态平衡具有十分重要的意义。 然而,河口又是生态环境十分脆弱和敏感的水域,同时也是受人类干扰最为严重的区域。因此,河口的生态环境问题愈来愈引起人们的关注,其中包括长江三峡水库的兴建对长江口及其附近海域生态、环境的影响,特别是对位于河口两侧的我国著名两大渔场——舟山渔场和吕四渔场的影响问题。影响渔业资源的因子是多方面而且错综复杂的。本文主要通过长江径流的变化与环境因子变量的相关分析,并根据三峡水库不同蓄水方案,对河口近海渔业的影响问题进行初步探讨。     

南海囊糠虾亚科的初步研究

囊糠虾亚科Gastrosaccinae 包括的种数并不很多，但有些种数量相当大，是经济鱼虾的天然饵料，在海洋食物链中占较重要的地位。例如黄海的漂浮囊糠虾Gastrosaccus pelagicus Ii 数量很大，普遍发现于底层鱼类胃含物中；此种及其他一些量大的种又可用作养殖鱼虾的饵料。这一亚科迄今已知共7属69种。本文根据中国科学院海洋研究所1958-60年在南海北部所采的底层浮游生物标本和中国科学院南海海洋研究所1974-81年采自西沙群岛、中沙群岛的标本写成，共发现4属12种，其中6种为中国近海的首次记录。     

Burial and scour around short cylinder under progressive shoaling waves

The results of a laboratory experimental program aimed at better understanding the scour around and burial of heavy cylindrical objects under oscillating flow on a sandy bed are described. This study was motivated by its application to the dynamics of isolated cobbles/mines on a sandy floor under nonlinear progressive waves, such as that occur in shallow coastal waters beyond the wave-breaking region. In the experiments, nonlinear progressive waves were generated in a long wave tank of rectangular cross-section with a bottom slope. Model mines (short cylinders) were placed on the sandy bottom and the temporal evolution of the bed profile and the velocity field in the near field of the object were observed. Experiments were conducted at relatively high Reynolds numbers for a range of flow conditions, which can be characterized by the Keulegan–Carpenter number and Shields parameter. Depending on the values of these parameters, four different scour regimes around the cylinder including periodical burial of cylinder under migrating sand ripples were observed; they were classified as: (i) no scour/burial, (ii) initial scour, (iii) expanded scour, and (iv) periodic burial cases. A scour regime diagram was developed and the demarcation criteria between different regimes were deduced. Semi-empirical formulae that permit estimation of the scour depth with time, the equilibrium maximum scour depth and length, and conditions necessary for the burial of the cylinder as a function of main external parameters are also proposed.     

Seasonality and interannual variability of freshwater inflow to a large oligohaline estuary in the Northern Gulf of Mexico

Quantity, timing, duration, and fluctuation of freshwater inflow are important factors affecting the development and health of aquatic and adjacent wetland ecosystems in coastal estuaries. This study assessed six decades of freshwater inflow from the Amite River, Tickfaw River, and Tangipahoa River watersheds to Lake Pontchartrain, a large oligohaline estuary in the Northern Gulf of Mexico, whose flood waters caused recent damage to the city of New Orleans in the aftermath of Hurricane Katrina. By utilizing the long-term (1940–2002) river discharge and climatic data from the three major tributary watersheds, monthly and annual freshwater inflows have been quantified and their spatial and temporal variations have been analyzed. On average, the three rivers discharged (±standard error) 0.27 ± 0.04 km³ freshwater monthly and 3.29 ± 0.15 km³ freshwater annually into the lake estuarine system, with the highest inflow from the Amite River (0.16 ± 0.03 m³ mon⁻¹, and 1.91 ± 0.09 km³ yr⁻¹) and the lowest inflow from the Tickfaw River (0.03 ± 0.00 km³ mon⁻¹, and 0.34 ± 0.02 km³ yr⁻¹). A distinct seasonality was evident with over 69% of the total annual inflow occurring during December and May (wet months) and with a low flow period from August to November (dry months). The monthly inflow during the wet months was positively correlated with the monthly precipitation (r² = 0.64), while the monthly inflow during the dry months was subject to evapotranspiration. Furthermore, the study found a 20-year low flow period from 1954–1973 (2.76 ± 0.24 km³ yr⁻¹) and a 24-year high flow period from 1975–1998 (3.84 ± 0.24 km³ yr⁻¹), coinciding with both the climate variation and population growth in the watersheds.     

海岛旅游效率空间格局演变及影响因素研究 ——以中国12个海岛县(区)为例

旅游产业是海岛地区的重要产业之一，借助 DEA 模型测度 12 个海岛县 （区） 的旅游效率，采用组合方法对海岛旅游效率的空间特征演变进行刻画，并通过 EVIEWS 软件分析海岛旅游效率的影响因素。 （1） 海岛旅游综合效率总体不高，技术效率是海岛旅游效率发展的主要驱动力，规模效率水平较低，海岛旅游发展能力未得到全面发挥。 （2） 海岛县 （区） 之间旅游效率总体差异不大，相对差异明显。海岛旅游效率空间状态演变由不稳定趋向于稳定，可能存在“贫困陷阱”和“俱乐部趋同”现象。 （3） 经济发展水平、生态环境、科技信息对海岛旅游效率的发展起到积极的推动作用，产业结构、交通条件、城镇化是海岛旅游效率发展的约束性因素。     

Sedimentology of a subtidal,tide-dominated sand body in the Yellow Sea,southwest Korea

Odanam Satoe, a subtidal, tide-dominated sand body in the Yellow Sea, Korea, is linear in plan and asymmetrical in cross-section. It consists of fine- to medium-grained, well-sorted subangular sand. Bedforms consist of high-amplitude (1–2 m) sandwaves on the lower flanks of the gentler-sloping bar surface, and medium-amplitude (0.5-1 m) sandwaves on the sand body trough adjoining the steeper face, the bar crest and shallower parts of the gently sloping bar surface. Bedforms are absent on the relatively steeper bar surface, which is characterized by 2° slopes. Bedform orientation on the gentler slope is oblique by 30° to the bar crest, parallel to the sand-body crest on the crest itself, and opposite to the steeper sand-body face in the trough below the steeper slope of the bar.Bottom current velocity data show that tidal currents are semi-rotary with a flood time—velocity asymmetry over the gentler slope, and ebb time—velocity asymmetry over the steeper slope during most of the tidal cycle. Tidal-current flow parallels bar elongation over the steeper slope, whereas over the gentler slope, tidal-current flow is directed at 30° to the bar crest and changes to normal to the crest one hour prior to low tide. Bedform orientation mapped with side-scan sonar shows agreement with these flow directions.Sand dispersal around the sand body is controlled by time—velocity asymmetry and partial rotary flow directions of tidal currents. This circulation causes not only a trapezoidal mode of grain dispersal, but also westerly migration of the sand body documented from comparative bathymetric surveys in 1964 and 1980.