Influence of Approach Channel on Wave Propagation with Varying Incident Angles

- The variation of the amplitude of waves with varying incident angles when waves propagate through a typical approach channel is discussed by a numerical calculation method, the result of which shows that the influence of the channel on wave propagation is obvious. When the wave propagation direction is in coincidence with the channel axis, the wave amplitude ratio will decrease with the increase of propagation distance. When the incident angle is 15 - 30 , there appears an area of larger wave amplitude ratio on the side slope facing the waves, but at the another side, the wave amplitude ratio is generally small, indicating that the channel has a shielding effect. When waves propagate across the channel perpendicularly, the wave amplitude ratio can be calculated with the shallow water coefficient.     

Refraction-Diffraction Mathematical Model for Waves With Lateral Energy Transmission Mechanism and Its Verification

To solve problems concerning wave elements and wave propagation, an effective way is the wave energy balance equation, which is widely applied in oceanography and ocean dynamics for its simple computation. The present papaer advances wave energy balance equations considering lateral energy transmission and energy loss as the governing equation for the study of wave refraction-diffraction. For the mathematical model, numerical simulation is made by means of difference method, and the result is verified with two examples.     

Discussion on Coastal Erosion Near Xizhuang, Penglai, China

-In this work, on the basis of the characteristics of coastal erosion near Xizhuang (Penglai, Shandong, China) and the in-situ measured data and theoretical calculation, the causes of coastal erosion there are obtained: (1) natural erosion, (2) beach sand borrowing, and (3) sand borrowing at the Dengzhou shoal near Xizhuang, which results in the loss of the function of the wave force resistance of the shoal. Since the wave energy is increased, the longshore sediment transport rate is increased. Coastal erosions are more and more serious. A scientific basis to reduced the calamity of coastal erosion in local area is presented. Some experiences are accumulated for studying coastal erosion.     

Sediment Transport in Rivers and Coastal Waters

Following Bagnold's approach, a relationship between sediment transport and energy dissipation is developed. The major assumption made in the study is that the near bed velocity plays a dominant role in the process of sediment transport. A general relationship between energy dissipation and sediment transport is first proposed. Then the equations for total sediment transport are derived by introducing the appropriate expression of energy dissipation rate under different conditions, such as open channel flows, combination of wave and current, as well as longshore sediment transport. Within the flows investigated, the derived relationships are fairly consistent with the available data over a wide range of conditions.     

Hydroelastic Analysis of Very Large Floating Structures Using Plate Green Functions

1 .IntroductionRecentlygreatinteresthasbeenshowninthedevelopmentofverylargefloatingstructuressuchasMegaFloatofJapan (Isobe ,1 999)andMOBofUSA (Remmers ,1 999) .Owingtotheirextremelargesizeandgreatflexibility ,thecouplingbetweenthestructuraldeformationandfluidmotionissignifi cant.Thisisatypicalproblemofhydroelasticity .Efficientandaccurateestimationofthehydroelasticresponseofverylargefloatingstructuresinwavesisveryimportantfordesign .Manymethodshavebeenproposedinliteratureforthepredictiono…     

The Working Mechanism and An Analytic Method of the Deep Embedded Large Cylinder Structure

The large cylinder is a new-type structure that has been applied to harbor and offshore engineering. An analytic method of the relationship between loads and the structure displacement is developed based on the failure mode of deep embedded large cylinder structures. It can be used to calculate directly the soil resistance and the ultirnate bearing capacity of the structure under usage. A new criterion of the large cylinder structure, which discriminates the deep embedded cylinder from the shallow embedded cylinder, is defined. Model tests prove that the proposed method is feasible for the analysis of deep embedded large cylinder structures.     

胶州湾沧口潮间带生态学研究

我国从30年代开始就对潮间带生态学进行过研究，动物学界前辈张玺教授领导考察团，对胶州湾进行多次考察。50年代又对我国沿海有代表性的潮间带进行调查。在这个基础上，我们在1963年8月到1964年12月连续17个月，对胶州湾沧口泥沙滩进行了逐月的潮间带生态调查。主要目的是详细地了解我国北方海区潮间带泥沙底质生态类型的生物种类组成、垂直分布和数量变动，并对某些经济种类的生物学概况进行探讨。 将我们的调查材料与张玺早期的资料作一比较就可发现，虽然经过三十多年的时间，但胶州湾沧口泥沙滩潮间带的生物种类组成和分布基本上没有多大变化，它反映了污染前自然生态的面貌。本文详细阐明沧口泥沙滩潮间带的生态结构，表现沧口滩涂自然生态平衡的本底情况。 近十多年来，随着工业的发展，近岸工厂的污水及其他污染物排放入海，沧口泥沙滩潮间带的生态结构发生了变化，某些种类的分布下移，数量减少，某些种类已绝迹。近几年来，全国开展的海岸带和海涂综合调查需要有过去的本底资料进行对比，以便对现有资源量和将来可能发生的资源变动进行估计。为此，我们把以前的调查结果整理发表，为水产养殖、环境保护和海洋生态学研究提供必要的资料。     

Second-order wave loading on a horizontal rectangular cylinder of substantial draught

Approximate first- and second-order analytical solutions of wave diffraction of a semi-submerged horizontal cylinder of rectangular cross-section are presented. The solutions are based on the assumption that the pressure in the fluid domain underneath the cylinder is linearly dependent on the horizontal space coordinate. Basically, this approach is valid when the clearance between the bottom of the cylinder and the sea bottom is small in comparison with the wave length and is recommended for a cylinder of substantial draught where due to the small clearance other methods are difficult to apply. Boundary conditions are satisfied by a choice of a proper form of the potential functions and by making use of the properties of matching conditions. Theoretical results reveal that the magnitude of the vertical second-order time-dependent loads could be significant and even exceed the corresponding first-order quantities. This phenomenon, which occurs even at moderate steepnesses, as well as the assumption of a linear pressure distribution, are confirmed by experiments performed in a wave tank.