The bottom currents in the area of abyssal hills in the north-east tropical Pacific Ocean

The results of simultaneous measurements of the bottom (6.25 and 35 m above the bottom) currents, deep currents, and surface currents made at three points in the north-east tropical Pacific Ocean are given. The bottom intensification of the current velocity is revealed in a layer of 35–25 m above the bottom. The estimation of the thickness of the bottom boundary layer (BBL) indicates that the velocity intensification is observed over the boundary layer upper border. A 10-day long benthic storm with a maximum measured velocity of 13 cm/s was revealed 6 m above the bottom. As was found, the origin of the benthic storm is associated with the penetration of an anticyclonic eddy down to the bottom.Translated by Mikhail M. Trufanov.     

The study of intermittent hydrophysical fields in the vicinity of the frontal zone

CTD data provided by the MGI-4204 and MARK-III probes are used to study the quasistationary subpolar front structure in the north-western Sea of Japan. In order to provide further insights into the intermittent scalar hydrophysical fields, the method of inhomogeneity identification using temperature pulsations calculated by the moving interval is suggested. The experimentally-derived inhomogeneity distribution is satisfactorily approximated by the exponential law.Translated by V. Puchkin.     

Numerical modelling of the seasonal variability of hydrophysical fields in the Black Sea

The results of research into the seasonal variability of hydrothermodynamic characteristics of the Black Sea are presented. These have been obtained using field data on the fields of temperature, salinity, and wind, and by mathematical modelling. The seasonal variability of the current and heat content fields and of the cold intermediate layer and other hydrophysical characteristics is discussed.Translated by Mikhail M. Trufanov.     

Numerical calculation for the flow of submerged bodies under a free surface

The flow field generated by a Rankine body moving under a free surface in afinite-depth water is calculated by potential theory. Velocity field generated by a source located at the origin is calculated first by using highly efficient and adaptive quadratures of the QUADPACK library. This solution is used for generating the flow around a Rankine body by locating a source and an equal strength sink along the body axis. Results agree well with the existing literature.     

印度东南部海岸拉梅斯沃勒姆滨外保克湾底层水特征对底栖有孔虫的影响

有孔虫生活在海洋和半咸水环境。底栖有孔虫的存在很大程度上受物理因素（深度、温度、光量、水体扰动）、化学因素（盐度、溶解氧和可用元素）和生物因素（食物供给量和底层沉积物特征）的制约。研究人员对印度东、西岸现代底栖有孔虫生态学和分布状态进行了研究。Ｎａｉｄｕ等在对Ｖｉｓａｋｈａｐａｔｎａｍ港复合体有孔虫进行分析后提出 ,可以将有孔虫作为海洋污染的指示物。ＳｒｅｅｎｉｖａｓａＲａｏ等采用Ｑ模式系数分析对尼赞伯德讷姆湾有孔虫的分布进行了研究 ,确认此区域存在４种组合 ,受不同环境条件的影响。Ｋｈａｒｅ等对门格…     

Effect of wave-directionality on second-order loads induced by the set-down

At first-order of approximation a sea-state may be considered as an infinite sum of Airy components with angular frequencies ω_i and wave-number vectors k_i. A second-order analysis shows the co-existence of long waves appearing at the difference frequencies ω_i—ω_j with wave-number vectors k_i—k_j. In shallow water they become appreciable in amplitudes and may induce slow-drift motion of moored structures.For small values of ω_i—ω_j,k_i—k_j may take all kinds of directions for an angular-spread wave system. Then it may be questioned how the in-line and transverse second-order accelerations compare to those obtained for a mono-directional wave-system.This analysis is carried out here by relating the spectra of the second-order horizontal accelerations to the directional wave-spectrum. Numerical applications are first performed for deep water. They show that at low frequencies, even for very narrowly spread wave systems, the transverse component is larger than the in-line component. In shallow water both components are dratically reduced as compared to the mono-directional case. As a consequence one may question the validity of model-testings or numerical models which take no account of the directionality of the wave-system.     

Mass flux and undertow in a surf zone

The mass of water carried shoreward by the breaking waves in a surf zone will, in a two-dimensional situation, be compensated by a seaward return flow, the undertow. It is shown that the undertow is driven by the local difference between radiation stress and the set-up pressure gradient which only balance each other in average over the depth. Turbulent shear stresses are required to maintain a steady situation. Comparison with measurements confirms the theoretical results.     

A numerical experiment on the calculation of the tropical Atlantic circulation in 1982–1983, with the real wind considered

This paper discusses the results obtained through numerical modelling of the annual course of circulation and thermohaline field evolution in the tropical Atlantic under the impact of real wind forcing (from March 1982 to March 1983) and compares them with the calculation of seasonal variability induced by the climatic wind. Changes in the pattern of the equatorial currents and related temperature fields induced by the specific peculiarities in the wind field are analysed.Translated by Vladimir A. Puchkin.     

Carbon-isotope composition of sediments from the Gulf of Papua

Rivers draining into the Gulf of Papua (GOP) from the Papua New Guinea mainland deliver approximately 340 × 10⁶ t yr^–1 of sediment to the marine environment. The terrestrially derived sediment contains 1.1 ± 0.2% particulate organic carbon with a carbon-isotope composition of –26.5 ± 0.2, and amounts to 3.7 ± 0.7 × 10⁶ t yr^–1. The carbon-isotope composition of sediments in the Gulf of Papua indicates that 40% of the sediment cover contains 75% or more terrestrially derived carbon. Suspended sediments that are transported beyond the delta complex of the Fly River are transported north and northwest, augmented by sediments from other rivers along the coast of the GOP. The carbon-isotope results suggest that a significant quantity of terrestrially derived sediment escapes from the GOP, either along the coastlines to east and west or into the deep ocean via the Moresby and Pandora troughs. Little sediment travels south onto the Great Barrier Reef shelf. Extrapolating the results from this study to the region of Oceania suggests a total flux of particulate organic carbon to the world's oceans from the islands of Oceania of ~ 90 × 10⁶ t yr^–1 or twice the flux of riverine POC from the major rivers of North America, South America, and Africa combined. While such a calculation must be considered illustrative only, the similar tectonic, geomorphologic, and climatic features of the islands of Oceania suggest that the calculation is unlikely to be grossly in error and that the rivers of Oceania therefore represent a major but poorly documented source of sediment and organic carbon to the global ocean.     

Directional spread parameter at intermediate water depth

The characteristics of directional spread parameters at intermediate water depth are investigated based on a cosine power ‘2s' directional spreading model. This is based on wave measurements carried out using a Datawell directional waverider buoy in 23 m water depth. An empirical equation for the frequency dependent directional spreading parameter is presented. Directional spreading function estimated based on the Maximum Entropy Method is compared with those obtained using a cosine power ‘2s' parameter model. A set of empirical equations relating the directional spreading parameter corresponding to the peak of wave spectrum to other wave parameters like significant wave height and period are obtained. It shows that the wave directional spreading at peak wave frequency can be related to the non-linearity parameter, which allows estimation of directional spreading without reference to wind information.